Colt Python Cylinder Lock-up

Astaziel

Astaziel

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So I was doing some research on revolvers, mainly Cylinder lockup.
I already know that the newer s&w and rugers locks at the cylinder release and at the crane, while the olders s&w lock at the very end of the ejector rod with a ball detent.

That's fine and all, but what about the Python?
I see it locks and the cylinder release like all the other revolver, but that's it.
I really can't find anywhere else where it would lock, except the cylinder stop of course.

Any insight on this? My Google-jitsu was fruitless.
I also heard there's another way it lock as I read the cylinder stop "drops" right when the trigger is pulled..
But the way I see it, the stop is already in place when the hammer is cocked, so does it drop deeper or something?
 
The cylinder stop (bolt) doesn't drop right when the trigger falls. It falls after the trigger is reset and begins it's travel again.

The whole cylinder is locked in two places, the cylinder stop (bolt) and the hand pressing on the ratchet which torques the cylinder tight against the cylinder stop. It also turns the crane/cylinder into the frame as that's the direction the cylinder moves on a colt.

So the short answer is the hand on the ratchet is the second point of lock up holding the crane and cylinder shut and tight like a bank vault as colt used to advertise.
 
Astaziel said:
Wow that's quite unusual, I was not expecting that.
Would you say that the python lockup is more fragile than the s&w?
Click to expand...

Exactly like MuthaFunk said.

The Python lock-up by the hand and the bolt aligns each chamber with the entrance of the barrel more precisely than on other revolvers that have a cylinder "play" that is necessary to the transit of the bullet to the barrel, through the forcing cone, hence a deformation of the bullet resulting in a diminished accuracy.
S&W were known to "spit" lead between the cylinder face and the forcing cone, leading to a re-cut of said forcing cone at 11 degrees if I remember well.
Due to the Python more precise adjustment, the distance from the face of the cylinder and the entrance of the barrel is something like 0.004 " - 0.006", avoiding "spitting" of projectiles shavings when entering the barrel.
Also, the latch pin (little cylinder moved by the cylinder latch and lodging in the center of the ejector star hence "closing" the cylinder before lock-up) is of a bigger diameter than other revolvers.
The whole process known as "bank vault" claim.
 
Why ?

The crane is beefy and holds the cylinder tightly; if you take a hammer to unlatch the locked cylinder, it is not a tiny "nail" at the end of the extractor rod that will keep it locked.
 
If you're a fan of Colts, you might be interested in Bill Jordan's 'No Second Place Winner' and Jerry Kuhnhausen's 'Colt Double Action Revolvers'.

No Second Place Winner
by William Henry Jordan
<https://www.amazon.ca/Second-Place-Winner-William-Jordan/dp/0936279095>

HERITAGE GUN BOOKS - COLT DOUBLE ACTION REVOLVERS SHOP MANUAL- VOLUME I
by Jerry Kuhnhause
224 pages. 6" x 9". Softbound. Debunks the myths surrounding the D, E and I frame (Python, old model Trooper, Detective Special and other large frames with Python style lock work) by carefully explaining and simplifying the complex relationships between Cylinder Bolt, Rebound Lever and Hand. Numerous photos and illustrations make it simple to understand these Colts and eliminate the “fear” factor. Gives bench pre-checks to identify problems before disassembly, then proceeds through disassembly, inspection, parts check, specific repairs, fitting new parts and reassembly.
<https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/books-amp-videos/books/handgun-gunsmithing-books/colt-double-action-revolvers-shop-manual-volume-i-prod25720.aspx?avs%7cManufacturer_1=HERITAGE%2bGUN%2bBOOKS>
 
Astaziel said:
indeed, but when is the last time you hammered a gun? ;)

Sorry, I don't think I used the right term here; I meant that the python would be more "delicate"
Click to expand...

Just wanted to illustrate that a "nail" at the end of an extractor does not mean the lock-up is more positive than on a revolver without it.
I hope you don't imagine I treat my Python that way.
 
Absolutely none.

It is a sweet piece, in the 0058.. serial number range.
Like for any other passion, what you have is always better....like the fuel millage on a car....you hear so many BS it is unbelievable.....like 10 liters/100 kilometers with a 5,7 liter engine.
With all due respect, "old" Pythons were surely hand assembled....not because Colt was throwing a bonus for the high price you had to pay (my Python 6", Nytex finished, $750.00 before tax in 1983), but because the machining was not so precise and the parts were oversized, hence requiring to be hand fitted.
And God be with you if you had to change a part, meaning getting the part from the US and bringing the whole snake to a competent gunsmith....and don't forget we are in Canada.
I opened my 2020....everything is tight and sound....not a single scratch on the trigger and hammer sides because they are fitted with a "shoulder" around the pin holes that prevent these parts to rub against the frame.
And, to be absolutely even and honest, God be with you if you need any part, because the spare parts did not hit the market yet and you will have problems to get them anyway with that ITAR thing.
 
So, they did improve the 2020 pythons.

Guns are machines, and any machine can be fixed with the proper knowledge (and enough money), although I don't think anything in your python is going to prematurely "break" anytime soon!

And if the newer one truly are better machined, then spare parts will surely be easier to find/change, just give it some time.

I thought the finish on your gun loioked a bit strange ;)
I prefer all polished and buffed, but if you prefer a more mat finish good for you!
Other than the esthetics, does the bead blasted finish better hide scratches?
 
My mint 4" Python (made in 1991) arrived today. Beautiful gun, the new flagship of my revolver collection.

Absolutely flawless in fit and finish, but - I'm disappointed in the SA trigger pull which must weigh in at least 5 lbs. It has the typical 'stacking' DA pull which I can learn to live with. Comparable to that of a CZ Shadow 1 with a spring kit installation which is usually in the 5-1/2 lb range.

Pythons also have the most unergonomic grip design ever! Wide at the base and tapering at the top. A "one size fits no one proposition". Fortunately, I have a set of Altamont custom grips in the mail with both the Colt logo and rampant Colt inlet. They closely resemble the Altamont grips on my 686-6.

As for the lock up, if you trip the sear, hanging onto the hammer, there is NO end shake or movement whatsoever. Pythons lock up solid!

For those who care, Safariland "L" frame Comp II speedloaders work just fine.
 
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