Comparing S&W 686 to GP100 help

Troy1760 said:
Thanks for the info, sorta what i was looking for. I may very well take the trip, i have family south of the island and do on occasion head there. Is there ways to make the trigger on the ruger better in the DA side, or am i just fishing for a solid gun and a smooth trigger. I dont think ill regret either, just unlike some of you, i dont have the ability to curb both sides and buy both...lol, my wife loves me but i think that may push it...lol
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Polishing the Ruger trigger helps (they say), but I won't do it. I personally don't mind the longer and stagier pull so much, but that's just me. There are also parts that can be swapped out to make it smoother. Again....I won't do it but that's not to say any one else shouldn't. To each his/her own.

This is all about the DA pull of course. The SA pull is almost the same between the two of them I've found, with a slight edge going to the SW in terms of lighter pull. Again, maybe that's just my gun.

I live south of the island as well. Let me know next time you're here and we'll head to the club so you can handle them. NOTE: I will NOT be responsible for any marital tension between you and your wife that will most probably arise after you've handled both of the guns. CRAFM sells both, in both 4.25 and 6 inch version, BTW.......:stirthepot2:
 
Troy1760 said:
Is there realy that much different in the Cast vs forge. What i have read is that ruger being bulkyer, they will handle magnum loads or any load better as they are slightly thicker in metal...
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The S&W 686 and Ruger GP100 are the same 'size' (ie: they will fit the same holster and the speedloaders are interchangable) so there is a difference in forged vs cast frames.
 
You need to shoot both guns as others have stated. Then you have to make up your mind, don't let others make it up for you.

I have 4 Rugers and over a dozen Smiths. There is a reason why S&W guns cost more and that is simply because they are worth it and people will pay more to have them.

When I take people to the range for the first time to shoot revolvers I take both a Ruger GP100 and either a Smith & Wesson 686 or a 586. I have never had a new shooter say to me he or she liked the Ruger better then the Smith.

Almost all the people who tell you that a Ruger is just as good as a Smith either don't know what they are talking about or are trying to convince themselves. If the rugers were that much stronger or better then Smith & Wesson would have shut the doors long ago.

Now that is not to say that the Ruger is not a good gun because it is a very good gun.

Graydog
 
Troy1760 said:
Hey guys, ive read alot on the forms about these 2 revolvers and have since a kid always wanted one. But my local gun Smith only has the 4.2 S&W. I would like to know if anyone on here in the ottawa valley area/ ottawa knows of a shop i can travel too to physicaly compare the 2 side by side. I want to feel the trigger and the gun in hand before swiping the card or righting the cheque sorta speek.

What i want to buy is a 6" barrel satin finish revolver either Smith and wesson 686 6 shot or the same in ruger with the Gp100(357 mag /38 is a must). Im not in a rush, been researching for years but im never in the right place and time to see both these beauts side by side.

Thanks for any advice and direction to the store front/range group.
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Perfect excuse to buy both. I have both. I love them both. Wouldn't get rid of them. The Smith does feel better and has a better trigger but nothing wrong with having a Smith and a Ruger revolver in the safe. Both are very shiny.
 
Crewman6 said:
Buy a GP100 and spend your $200 savings on ammo. I did with no regrets.
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I don't subscribe to this way of looking at it, especially given the price of a GP100 and the cost 38 special and 357 magnum ammo. You will see above that I have a GP100 and love it, so that is not my point. My point is that a you are likely going to spend many times the cost of the gun in ammo over the years...at least I hope you are. $200 is not a lot of ammo at retail prices including tax and if you reload, it is still not a lot of ammo over your lifetime useage of the gun. Again, I think you will like either gun, just don't consider a $200 saving as being significant because it is not when you factor in the entire cost of shooting the gun over the long run. "TCO" (total cost of ownership).

It would be akin to buying a less expensive car because it has a cheaper purchase price, but it turns out to cost the same in the long run because it uses more fuel per KM than the car that had a higher purchase price. Yes the GP100 will cost less, but the percentage is not that significant if you shoot it regularly. Then again, if you are worried about a $200 difference in the initial cost, you may not be that frequent a shooter and my view on things would be irrelevant.

Happy trails...
 
It is the age old consumer question...."How good is good enough?" Is the S&W worth the extra dollars?...I'd say you need to handle both and decide for yourself. The answer will vary from one person to the next.

edit In the interest of full disclosure I chose a used 586 no dash over a new GP100 and saved a couple of hundred dollars! ;)
 
Smith and Wesson for me. Don't be lured by that « rugers are built like tanks» adage. A Smith 686 or 586 is built to handle full power .357 magnum loads all day, every day. The Ruger is a great gun, I agree, but the Smith is one step over in my book.

Gilbert
 
For discerning tastes the GP100 will never satisfy, and for some neither will the 686. If you can only have one .357, try to find a S&W M627 or an M27. The N-frame is just as stout as the GP100 frame but has a much better trigger. The only problem is the 8 shot cylinder in the M627 because the wall between cartridges is a little thin for my liking. For experimental loads the M27 is the gun to push the limit with. It is better all around and is the reason I traded off my GP100. Curiosity is not a good enough reason to buy the GP100. If you compare the triggers of the two with a S&W in hand, shooting double action, you will be astounded at the difference. For lighter .38 special target loads, the M627 is my recommendation as it is my favourite shooter. Not for long though, as I am experimenting with loads in my .41 magnum M57. Welcome to the world of revolvers. Your life will never be the same again.
 
i picked up a GP100 couple years ago and love it.
last summer i was able to compare it to my Dads S&W at the range side by side.
while the S&W is nicer and smoother i found the GP100 didnt feel like it jumped as much when shooting the hot loads.

the triggers ya cant compare, the S&W owns the ruger in that department.

at the end of the day im not a big wheel gun guy so for me the GP100 is perfect and i love it.
i think if i was a die hard wheel gun fella id go hunt down a S&W.
that said.... i have been eying those new S&W PC guns this last year.
they looked ugly at first but now they kinda make my fun junk twitch when i look at them, im afraid to go fondle one cause ill probably end up getting one!
 
paisley70 said:
...The only problem is the 8 shot cylinder in the M627 because the wall between cartridges is a little thin for my liking...
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Curious if you have heard of any actual malfunctions or cylinders exploding, cracking, or whatever, or if that is just a personal thing?

I just recently picked up a model 27-8 Registered Magnum that was built by the Performance Center. It is an 8-shot. Have not fired it yet, no-one has, but I'm looking forward to it. The GP100 has a thicker barrel, no comparison there, and the PC has a significantly better DA. I don't plan on running hot magnums through it all day long but still curious if there have been any reported failings.

By the way, if you like S&W over a GP100, you should really try the S&W PC guns, they are another step up. It never ends does it...
 
Troy1760 said:
Is there realy that much different in the Cast vs forge. What i have read is that ruger being bulkyer, they will handle magnum loads or any load better as they are slightly thicker in metal. I know the S&W is hands down a nicer gun in the fit and finish, but im sorta concerend on the grip and how the gun feels in hand. Alot of what i read is same to what you guys are saying, S&W, trigger finish, longevity, all better. But with Ruger, a little polish and the trigger done its a comparable gun and trigger.
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I own 2 GP100 and have only borrowed and rented 686s. Both are great guns both will easily outlast you. One thing you musnt be mistaken on is the trigger. The 686 has a better firing mechanism design from a trigger snob point of view. No amount of gunsmithing can make a GP100 match a 686. The difference is in the hammer geometry. The smith has a much better locktime that is immediately felt.

The gp100 has no pretravel and very little overtravel and what little grit there can be easily stoned out. What you cant change is the geometry of the trigger/sear/hammer and spring mounting points and the angles they pull in. If someone will mail me their 686 I'll be happy to dissassemble it and make detailed charts and diagrams.

The 686 is fundamentally and irreperably a better firing mechanism. That said, I do so love my GP100s and prefer the overbuilt characteristics. My grandchildren will inherit them.
 
curseyou said:
I own 2 GP100 and have only borrowed and rented 686s. Both are great guns both will easily outlast you. One thing you musnt be mistaken on is the trigger. The 686 has a better firing mechanism design from a trigger snob point of view. No amount of gunsmithing can make a GP100 match a 686. The difference is in the hammer geometry. The smith has a much better locktime that is immediately felt.

The gp100 has no pretravel and very little overtravel and what little grit there can be easily stoned out. What you cant change is the geometry of the trigger/sear/hammer and spring mounting points and the angles they pull in. If someone will mail me their 686 I'll be happy to dissassemble it and make detailed charts and diagrams.

The 686 is fundamentally and irreperably a better firing mechanism. That said, I do so love my GP100s and prefer the overbuilt characteristics. My grandchildren will inherit them.
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Well said. There are plenty of online diagrams to support your statements.
 
I have found a spot to take alook at both revolvers today. so will see where the feel is in the hand.

Now sorta another question one may be able to answer, is what are the differences when im looking at Smiths when it says, 686 6, 686 3 , ....

what are the other numbers as i have seen a few on CGN selling 686 3 and 686 6, not sure but can someone break it down for me, thanks
 
Troy1760 said:
I have found a spot to take alook at both revolvers today. so will see where the feel is in the hand.
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This is obviously helpful but also keep in mind that grips can be changed and triggers can be tuned...if you have a mind to do that type of thing. There is added expense of course but you can pick up two of the identical gun and they could feel different. I'll be interested to hear your feedback.

The "dash" numbers on the S&W are different evolutions of the model, usually with some changes. Google is your friend on this one, to find all of the changes that took place for each revision.
 
I love my SS GP 100 4.2', don't know if it matters but S&W 686 owners tell me their top strap is much thinner than the GP's.
 
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