Complete newbie when it comes to reloading, some help?

Brappp306

Regular
EE Expired
Rating - 87.5%
7   1   0
Hey guys. So I have been shooting/Hunting pretty well my entire life. But recently have just got into the whole precision/long range game. I have my rifle and all, just now need the reloading equipment since factory ammo don't quite cut it lol.

So I'm really green when it comes to this... What will I all need to get started? I don't really want to cheap out either. I will be reloading 308 and 22-250, maybe some 9mm. It'd be nice if I could buy most my equipment at Cabela's since I have about $300 worth of gift cards hah.

Thanks
 
Lyman publishes a reloading manual with an excellent section on how to reload. It will talk about everything you will need and how to use it. Your best bet is to give it a good read and then find some one you know or maybe a connection at your local club to show you a couple of things.

If you have any questions just shoot me a pm. Always glad to help another Sask. shooter.
 
Cabelas.com still has some great deals on RCBS press kits right now compared to Cabelas.ca
I ordered one and some dies a month ago and they shipped it up to Calgary with no problems.
 
Well, long range shooting and hand loading is a whole different game than loading for hunting or for ranges with 200-300 meter target butts.

You have given us a vague idea of what you are trying to do.

The first thing to consider is whether or not your rifles are capable of DECENT long range accuracy.

The 22-250, IMHO is a fantastic cartridge but if you want to use it at extended ranges, for most people anything over 300m is considered to be extended, then the rifle needs to be purchased or built to shoot heavier very low drag bullets. This means at least a 1-8 twist rate for the rifling in your bore. It also means a special, tight chamber and tight tolerances on the necks. Then you will need special dies with interchangeable neck sizing rings and an arbor press. A regular press will not cut it when it comes to competition. Yes, there are always exceptions but they are very few and far between.

When it comes to long range shooting, about the only thing that is interchangeable is the arbor press.

9mm can be done on just about any decent press. If you are going to shoot several hundred rounds per week, a progressive press is your best bet. Unless you have a special pistol built for accuracy standards are a lot looser.

The 308 Win, is a very good long range cartridge/rifle combination.

Today's off the shelf offerings are very good and often good enough to be competition rifles. The trick is to pick one out of the herd. You may have to go through several or maybe the first one you buy will be a winner. Again, you would be further ahead purchasing a rifle made by the manufacturer of your choice and build a rifle to suit your purpose. These days with CNC produced components just about any of the majors produce exceptional receivers. Trigger groups mostly leave something to be desired.

Again, special dies with interchangeable necks are needed.

On top of this, you will need a tool to turn the necks of your cases so that there is around .002in difference between the ID of the chamber and OD of the neck. It's a lot easier than it sounds and once you're set up for it, not tedious at all.

I don't think, from the sounds of your post, that your experience in long range shooting is lacking.

If the option is open for you, contact some people in your area that are willing to be mentors. I'm not talking about a bud from the local suds palace that has preconceived ideas based on video games and movies.

You need to go to a local club or shop that deals with people that are interested in wringing out as much accuracy as they possibly can from their firearms.

Once you have gone so far as to search out such people they will check you out to see if you are really serious or not. If you pass muster and don't come off like you're playing a game of Seal Team Six they will take you under their wing and teach you proper shooting techniques so that you can be as good as your rifle.

The group of long range precision shooter is small. Most people can't afford the rifles and the kit that goes with them. Same goes for ammunition components.

You really need to do some homework and figure out the style of long range shooting you want to get into as well as the ranges you want to shoot.

IMHO, the $300 you speak of is a drop in the proverbial bucket but it is a good start if you have a rifle that warrants the expense.

Contrary to a lot of popular conceptions, not all rifles are capable of good accuracy. If you're going to compete or even hunt critters such as coyotes, your rifle has to be capable of 1/4 moa or less right out to the ranges you wish to shoot. REMEMBER, the average coyote is from 4-6 in from the top of its spine to the bottom of its sternum. Any gust of wind between you and that coyote at 400 yards is enough to drift your bullet into the ether and either wound or miss your animal.

Competition is even more critical.

I don't want to dissuade you from this form of shooting but it has been my experience that for most people it is more wannabe than it is a realistic endeavor. Be prepared to spend a lot of money and hours of your time loading, tweaking and developing loads for each rifle. Then of course, don't forget the scope. Be prepared to spend more money on a scope capable of eliminating the parallax out to the ranges you wish to shoot than the cost of the rifle and other components combined.

Are you sure you want to go to these lengths??? A lot of clubs and even buddy circles have a lot of fun with off the shelf rifles without having to take out a mortgage and use up almost all of your available spare time.

If you're married and your spouse refuses to or can't understand your passion, you will either get a divorce or quit before you really get into it.
 
Well, long range shooting and hand loading is a whole different game than loading for hunting or for ranges with 200-300 meter target butts.

You have given us a vague idea of what you are trying to do.

The first thing to consider is whether or not your rifles are capable of DECENT long range accuracy.

The 22-250, IMHO is a fantastic cartridge but if you want to use it at extended ranges, for most people anything over 300m is considered to be extended, then the rifle needs to be purchased or built to shoot heavier very low drag bullets. This means at least a 1-8 twist rate for the rifling in your bore. It also means a special, tight chamber and tight tolerances on the necks. Then you will need special dies with interchangeable neck sizing rings and an arbor press. A regular press will not cut it when it comes to competition. Yes, there are always exceptions but they are very few and far between.

When it comes to long range shooting, about the only thing that is interchangeable is the arbor press.

9mm can be done on just about any decent press. If you are going to shoot several hundred rounds per week, a progressive press is your best bet. Unless you have a special pistol built for accuracy standards are a lot looser.

The 308 Win, is a very good long range cartridge/rifle combination.

Today's off the shelf offerings are very good and often good enough to be competition rifles. The trick is to pick one out of the herd. You may have to go through several or maybe the first one you buy will be a winner. Again, you would be further ahead purchasing a rifle made by the manufacturer of your choice and build a rifle to suit your purpose. These days with CNC produced components just about any of the majors produce exceptional receivers. Trigger groups mostly leave something to be desired.

Again, special dies with interchangeable necks are needed.

On top of this, you will need a tool to turn the necks of your cases so that there is around .002in difference between the ID of the chamber and OD of the neck. It's a lot easier than it sounds and once you're set up for it, not tedious at all.

I don't think, from the sounds of your post, that your experience in long range shooting is lacking.

If the option is open for you, contact some people in your area that are willing to be mentors. I'm not talking about a bud from the local suds palace that has preconceived ideas based on video games and movies.

You need to go to a local club or shop that deals with people that are interested in wringing out as much accuracy as they possibly can from their firearms.

Once you have gone so far as to search out such people they will check you out to see if you are really serious or not. If you pass muster and don't come off like you're playing a game of Seal Team Six they will take you under their wing and teach you proper shooting techniques so that you can be as good as your rifle.

The group of long range precision shooter is small. Most people can't afford the rifles and the kit that goes with them. Same goes for ammunition components.

You really need to do some homework and figure out the style of long range shooting you want to get into as well as the ranges you want to shoot.

IMHO, the $300 you speak of is a drop in the proverbial bucket but it is a good start if you have a rifle that warrants the expense.

Contrary to a lot of popular conceptions, not all rifles are capable of good accuracy. If you're going to compete or even hunt critters such as coyotes, your rifle has to be capable of 1/4 moa or less right out to the ranges you wish to shoot. REMEMBER, the average coyote is from 4-6 in from the top of its spine to the bottom of its sternum. Any gust of wind between you and that coyote at 400 yards is enough to drift your bullet into the ether and either wound or miss your animal.

Competition is even more critical.

I don't want to dissuade you from this form of shooting but it has been my experience that for most people it is more wannabe than it is a realistic endeavor. Be prepared to spend a lot of money and hours of your time loading, tweaking and developing loads for each rifle. Then of course, don't forget the scope. Be prepared to spend more money on a scope capable of eliminating the parallax out to the ranges you wish to shoot than the cost of the rifle and other components combined.

Are you sure you want to go to these lengths??? A lot of clubs and even buddy circles have a lot of fun with off the shelf rifles without having to take out a mortgage and use up almost all of your available spare time.

If you're married and your spouse refuses to or can't understand your passion, you will either get a divorce or quit before you really get into it.

Wow thank you very much for the detailed reply, very helpful. Yes I have heard it can become very expensive haha. As well the nice part is I do have a couple guys from the range that have a decent bit of knowledge when it comes to this type of shooting so hopefully they can help.

And the 22-250 would not be for long range hah, just for popping coyotes. Cheaper to reload them, the factory 22-250 are quite pricy.

Thanks again.
 
I started with the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit, and it's been great. $150 at Cabelas. Just add a set of dies and you're pretty much good to go.
 
I started with the Lee 50th Anniversary Kit, and it's been great. $150 at Cabelas. Just add a set of dies and you're pretty much good to go.

Ditto!

My only issue with the kit, when reloading .308, is the powder dispenser. It doesn't like stick powder very much.
 
I started with Lee too - 30 years ago. I loaded everything on it, even pistols. When we were young we had no money so I had to make do with a single stage press. 5 years ago it just plum fell apart and I threw it out and bought an RCBS and a Dillon for pistols...and learned later that Lee will rebuild their presses at extraordinarily reasonable prices. Doh!!!!

I don't feel bad, that press went day and night for decades and it didn't owe me a red cent! I would still be using it today if I had not thrown it out. My advice is that if you are on a tight budget get one off the EE. The presses are pretty much bullet proof (HAR HAR HAR) and there isn't much that can go wrong with them...
 
I'm a big fan of the Forster single stage and would say for precision work it's pretty hard to beat.

I have a 41 year old Rockchucker press and I have been married 39 years and the reason I don't have a new Forster Co Ax press is because my wife said "we" are going on another cruise. :bigHug:......:bangHead:

ear-money_zps87933115.jpg


And you can't see the world if your wife shoots you for spending "her" money. :HR:

IMGP5880_zps61bcee7e.jpg


The above message was brought to you by "The Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Reloaders"
 
I also have a Forester Single Stage Co Ax press. I agree it is very good. But, IMHO the precision Wilson die set with interchangeable neck diameters, along with a good arbor press is excellent. I have never had runout of more than .001 in when using that tried and true system. I certainly can't say the same for the Co Ax press.

It just depends how far you want to go for perfection. If you want to win in competition at any range, you MUST eliminate all inconsistencies. The co ax press doesn't do that efficiently. Don't get me wrong here. Accuracy becomes an addiction and once you have succumbed to its wiles you will never be satisfied until you shoot 10 x 10X shots on target and do it consistently and predictably.

Sadly, I have a very good rifle capable of such shots but I am not nearly as capable as the rifle. So much long range accuracy is dependent on shooter technique as well as or maybe more so than the rifle.

Just understand something else. Just because you put out big bucks for a match grade barrel doesn't mean it will be a match grade shooter. There are so many variables, including the equipment it was made on, as well as the equipment and capabilities of the smith/machinist that machines it and puts it together. Then as we mentioned, there is the personal manufacture of ammo and the capabilities of the equipment and the people operating it.
 
For me in my 40+ years of trying, the most reliable, least expensive way to buld consistently accurate ammo is:
A good straight single stage press.
Buy good brass, Lapua if you can.
Lee case trimmers chucked to your drill/driver.
A shallow taper inside neck deburr reamer. Followed up by a burnish with fine steel wool.
Learn how to anneal necks, and do so every few firings.
Get a primer pocket uniformer and use it all the time.

Dies are very important to eliminate run out and achieve correct neck tension (around two thou.is ideal)
Deprime die, seperate step, then wash brass(I like vinegar/dish soap) rinse dry thoroughly.
Lee collet neck die with the stem tuned to give two thou. neck tension.
Redding body die to bump back tight to chamber cases.
Most importantly; Competition straight line BR seater die from Redding or Forster. The micrometer adj. is very usefull, but not neccessary to produce dead straight cartridges.
Sort out the bullet/powder/ seating depth your barrel likes, and 1/2 moa is yours for the shooting .. if both you and your rifle are capable.

Good luck, and have fun.
Clanging the gong out past 1000 WILL become addictive!.
 
Back
Top Bottom