Complete Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish Kit
- Thread starter JeffMan
- Start date
Here's one with tru oil:
Now I use a 2 to 1 cut tung oil. About 8 - 10 coats gets to my finish. Either gloss or satin. Am working on a tung oil finish now and will post here as pics become available.
That picture was taken of the first chu wood I had worked on about 4 years ago. Since then either my technique has gotten better, or the wood has gotten better.
Now I use a 2 to 1 cut tung oil. About 8 - 10 coats gets to my finish. Either gloss or satin. Am working on a tung oil finish now and will post here as pics become available.
That picture was taken of the first chu wood I had worked on about 4 years ago. Since then either my technique has gotten better, or the wood has gotten better.
It's just my personal tastes, but I think the glossy finish produced by tru oil would look a little out of place on a military gun. If it were *my* gun, I'd go with raw linseed, for a more 'authentic' look. Very very low gloss, and RLO yellows as it ages - again, for that 'authentic' look.
I've never used tung oil - does it produce a finish similar to tru oil? It's a polymerized oil finish, sort of like boiled linseed, correct?
I've never used tung oil - does it produce a finish similar to tru oil? It's a polymerized oil finish, sort of like boiled linseed, correct?
If you use tru oil, lightly sanding between coats can help reduce the gloss. To really take the sheen down after the final coat I use a 600 grit wet/dry paper. Works good if you aren't too heavy handed.
Commercial Tung Oil like Minwax is a polymerized protective finish. Because it can build up a real high gloss with multiple coats, I alway dilute it 2 parts tung oil to 1 part turpentine or other commercial thinner.
The colour I achieved on the stock in the picture was done by staining it with a diluted red oak stain. I did this not so much to colour it as to help bring some of the grain out.
Commercial Tung Oil like Minwax is a polymerized protective finish. Because it can build up a real high gloss with multiple coats, I alway dilute it 2 parts tung oil to 1 part turpentine or other commercial thinner.
The colour I achieved on the stock in the picture was done by staining it with a diluted red oak stain. I did this not so much to colour it as to help bring some of the grain out.
prosper said:
Proper true tung oil is not glossy like BLO...and is the oil originally used to cure Garands and M14s. However, BLO was handed to soldiers to use on top in their bored time.
Lots of commercial tung oil finishes come mixed with some BLO and stuff to make it semi glossy.
I like tru oil simply because its more durable and hard finish. Tung oil leave a nice non glossy finish but scratch easily, for my shotgun that I abuse a little more than my rifle without doubt I would use tru oil any time,
Now I'm trying to sand to knock down glossy effect between coat, and I'll try to sand using 1500 wet sandpaper at final coat than apply a stock conditionner to polish it. I'll post pic when it's done.
Now I'm trying to sand to knock down glossy effect between coat, and I'll try to sand using 1500 wet sandpaper at final coat than apply a stock conditionner to polish it. I'll post pic when it's done.
Ok Here's the result;
Note there's a few fingertip on it but it give you an idea of the result.
Sanded with 400 between each coat
sanded with 1500 final coat then polished it with birchwood casey stock conditionner.
very satisfied and though as nail
Note there's a few fingertip on it but it give you an idea of the result.
Sanded with 400 between each coat
sanded with 1500 final coat then polished it with birchwood casey stock conditionner.
very satisfied and though as nail
Last edited:
It sure do, it's very hard on touch. and if you scratch it, just use some bee wax , it will hide it and protect wood against moisture.
In fact you have to knock it pretty hard to make an apparent scratch or with a cutting tool, like a screwdriver, it happenned to me one time with flatscrew.
simply sand the area a bit with steelwool, apply one or two coat of tru oil with finger, let it dry 48 hours, sand it a bit then polish. No more scratch.
In fact you have to knock it pretty hard to make an apparent scratch or with a cutting tool, like a screwdriver, it happenned to me one time with flatscrew.
simply sand the area a bit with steelwool, apply one or two coat of tru oil with finger, let it dry 48 hours, sand it a bit then polish. No more scratch.
