Converting 30-06 cases to...

[PerversPépère]

I need to make myself some good brass for an 8mm Mauser rifle.
I have a small mountain of 30-06 Remington, Winchester and Federal brass at hand and want to convert it to 8mm.
Since part of the necks will be made out of the 30-06 shoulder, should I get a neck reamer or neck turner to thin the necks of that converted brass?
Any advice?
PP.

 

[tiriaq]

I have not found it necessary, but of course there are variables. Make up a dummy or two, and check the fit, smoke the case, see how it feels. You could make a chamber cast, and measure the neck portion, and compare that with the diameter of a case with seated bullet.

 

[desporterizer]

I didn't have to thin it either but they were shot in milsurps with "generous chambers". Lots of work for not a whole lot of brass with my set up(lee dies & trimmer+pipe cutter). Have fun!

 

[762nato]

I just trim the 3006 to the correct length for 8mm put a little Imperial wax on and run them into a 8mm fl die, works fine for me. I do anneal them first as I find this gives my 8 mm a longer life.

Andy

 

[PerversPépère]

Thanks guys!
I was thinking about annealing them before. Do you anneal with a propane torch or do you rely on molten wheelweights and moly-ed case necks and shoulders?
PP.

 

[tiriaq]

I haven't annealed the cases. I remove the expander stem, FL size, trim to length, resize with stem in die.

 

[sunray]

Why not just buy some 8mm Mauser brass?

 

[762nato]

I put the cases in a water bath(in water to 1/4" below the shlouder), hit them with a propane torch and knock them over when they are dull red.

Andy

 

[Levi Garrett]

Done the torch method , but I think the hot lead would be very uniform , and fast to do

 

[hs4570]

Have only annealed via the Molten wheel weight method...........worked well.

Leave the spent primers in the case.......trapped air doesn't let the "melt" go up into the case as much.......

hs4570........your mileage may vary

 

[Splatter]

Leave the spent primers in the case.......trapped air doesn't let the "melt" go up into the case as much.......

Really?
I was afraid that the heated air would expand and cause bits of molten bullet material to spray about.

I just got myself a Lyman casing thermometer, so I'm looking forward to an increase in accuracy in the annealing. I don't know if it'll be better of worse; but it'll be more accurate.

 

[hs4570]

To anneal with molten lead etc.......I hold the case in ungloved fingers.......slowly immerse.......get to about 1..2..3..4 count and drop in bucket of water....you won't be holding it long as the annealing doesn't take long at 800 degrees +/-.......once you figure out the timeing put glove on for safety and continue.....

hs4570......you mileage may vary

 

[bearhunter]

The easiest way I've found to anneal brass, is to decap and place on base of course, in a cake pan with about 1 1/2 inch of water into the oven at 500 degrees F for about 5-10 minutes. Then just as you pull out the pan, run an oven mitt accross the case mouths to tip them over into the water, all done no mess to clean, no lead fumes and all very uniform. The brass being hot, dries very quickly. bearhunter

 

[Workin Man]

Higginson's lists 8mm Mauser brass (new, unfired Winchester) for $21.50/50pcs.

 

[maple_leaf_eh]

step by step

I just trim the 3006 to the correct length for 8mm put a little Imperial wax on and run them into a 8mm fl die, works fine for me. I do anneal them first as I find this gives my 8 mm a longer life.
Andy

Great minds think alike. I have a similar situation - 30-06 en masse (mil and civ) and a need for 7.9x57 Mauser.

So, the steps seem to be:
- trim off 6mm (63mm to 57mm)
- anneal (pan of water and torch, pan of water and 500deg over, or a deft hand dipping into molten lead and dunk in water)
- apply case lube
- run through full length sizing die

What about shoulder denting? How does the neck get expanded from .308" to .323"?

 

[Splatter]

by the next step:

- run through size die with expander ball in place.

 

[PerversPépère]

Lead annealing

I tried with some good fluxed metal.
First, I decapped all the cases with an universal decapper.
Then I made myself a case lubricator by putting about half a teaspoonful of fine molybdenum disulfide in a 35mm. film can and filling it 2/3 with small #8 lead shot (would prefer steel but...), then put the lid on it and shook it to spread the powder on the shot.
I lubricated every case's neck and shoulder, inside and out, with moly to keep molten lead from sticking and also give me a visual witness mark.
I plunged every case into the lead nearly to the top of the moly mark for about 12 seconds then dropped each one in a pail of cold water.
I washed the cases, wiped them off and put them in my case tumbler for a one hour spin.
Voilà!
PP.