Converting a DAO S&W back to it's original DA/SA

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Liberty.357

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I recently bought a S&W Model 15 in DAO. I have replaced the hammer to try to restore the original DA/SA without success. I do think I installed the hammer correct, the DA still works but no SA. Wondering what part I should purchase next to change out, aswell as any additional advice or information.
 
Well, according to this guy, he just lucked out and the DA/SA hammer was a drop-in for him.

h ttp://garandthumb.com/smith-and-wesson-mp-model-15-conversion-from-doa-to-dasa/
 
Liberty.357 said:
Wondering what part I should purchase next to change out, as well as any additional advice or information.
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An over-travel stop may be in the way. The O-T stop may be a screw in the face of the trigger, or a small plate located high in the trigger guard.

DA usually has a shorter trigger stroke than SA, so a stop set for DA may not allow the trigger to move rearward enough to engage the hammer in the cocking notch.
 
Lodi said:
An over-travel stop may be in the way. The O-T stop may be a screw in the face of the trigger, or a small plate located high in the trigger guard.

DA usually has a shorter trigger stroke than SA, so a stop set for DA may not allow the trigger to move rearward enough to engage the hammer in the cocking notch.
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Thanks! There is a trigger overtravel stop plate in the top of the trigger guard behind the trigger. Any advice on how to work that or videos on YouTube? I'll take it apart and have another look.
 
Nevermind, I loosened the overtravel stop screw and moved the plate back and voila!! Single action up and running!! Thanks alot Lodi, I kinda though it'd be a simple fix. I might not have even needed a new hammer, oh well just happy with the single action.
 
Now I'm getting light primer strikes lol. Tightened the mainspring up to the max. Going to try a trick I heard on the net to take an old primer, knock out the anvil and place it on the tip of the mainspring screw to act as a spacer. Hopefully will help strengthen hammer tension.
 
The tensioning screw was never meant to be an adjustable item. It is only to allow you to remove tension for removing and installing the mainspring.

A DAO gun was also likely subjected to a trimmed down mainspring intended to use nothing but Federal primers. So a new mainspring will likely be required. You can try the cap idea. Some folks do file off the end of the tension spring and the primer cap trick can fix that. This assumes that the spring was not also modified.
 
I wasn't having any problems before with light strikes in DAO, same primers. The mainspring screw was really tight when I initially took it out and had a little light brown stuff stuck on it. Could have been dirt or maybe it was glue. Still haven't tried the primer cap trick, although I have an inkling it will work, hopefully not at the expense of longterm reliability or trigger pull.

A whole exchange of new springs may be a better solution. Any imput on places with spring kits on a budget for a K frame?

I know this is all home gunsmithing and probably easy fix for a professional, but I like learning about the mechanics and takeaway knowledge.
 
Make sure the over-travel stop is out of the way completely, if it's not then it may not allow the hammer to clear the trigger as it rotates. Try the original hammer.

The new hammer may have pins protruding from the side, which can cause binding.

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If I'm reading your posts correctly, the only parts you've really changed have been the hammer assembly and the over-travel. I would concentrate on those two areas first, before making changes elsewhere.
 
Liberty.357 said:
Another thing I should mention is the hammer feels rather sluggish. Like it's rubbing against something or tightened down. Other hammers feel free and light.
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Is it still doing this? If so then I'd say this is the main symptom. The hammer needs to fall freely and fast to set off the primers. Any drag is a bad sign. It may simply have gotten some crap down the hammer slot and it lodged in place and is rubbing. Or it may be a sign of some other failure. Removing the side plate and doing a careful strip down and observation is called for. You Tube had dozens of videos on how to take down a K frame. Look at a few to get the ideas down pat and for identifying the parts and order of removal and assembly.
 
Will do. I need to take some more time to get familiar with the inner workings. I don't have the proper flatheads for the screws so I'm worried when taking apart, need to pickup some tools. It looked pretty clean when I changed the hammer though. This hammer has felt stiff and sluggish ever since I put it in. I'll try the old one aswell.
 
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