converting milsurp to hunting ammo

Jack of all trades

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i posted this on the reloading forum as well, figured it might get more responses here.


i was recently informed of people buying surplus 7.62x54r ammo, pulling the fmj's and istaling sp's. any of you do this? how did it work out? oh and they used the lee loader. i've reloaded hunting ammo since i was a kid and have never heard of this being done. thanks
 
Most surplus ammo that's available today isn't that consistant. It's certainly cheap, but lots of russian and the like are corrosive and inconsistant enough to make me simply choose to reload instead of trying to fiddle with the corrosive steel stuff.
 
If i already had some milsurp ammo and bullets, with no way of gettign proper components, i still might not try this. The corrosive primers might be one reason. The fact that i'd have to pull and weigh a dozen or so rounds, then re measure powder to put back in to make some consistent loads might be another. Also, re crimping the steel cases may be hard on your seating die.
 
I have done this many times in many calibers.

Pull and dump powder of 10 rounds. Weigh powder. Divide by 10. That is the powder weight to re-load.

Remove decapper from sizing die. Size about half or more of the case neck. This will make the neck very tight.

Re-fill cases with powder. Seat a similar weight match or soft-point bulllet. No crimping required.

Enjoy.
 
How about just filing of the copper jacket at the end of the bullet or dipping the end in something like ammonia to disolve the copper at the tip?

I thought that I heard that some of the guys in WWII did that when they went hunting for food near the end of the war.
 
The comparative costs of surplus military and commercial hunting ammo hardly make this a worthwhile exercise anymore. Besides, why use stale old re-cycled MILSURP ammo for hunting given the costs of everything else involved? Military hard point bullets with the tips opened up do not have predictable performance or accuracy for hunting, so this is not the way to go.

Some Milsurp ammo, notably US .30-06 ball, features an asphalt sealer inside the neck for waterproofing. These ones are a bear to pull, so you need to seat the bullet a bit further with a seater die to break this seal before pulling the bullet. You then need to clean the bullet off with solvent before re-seating it.

If you do this you must re-size the neck to establish proper bullet tension. As pointed out, remove the decapping pin to avoid detonating the primer in the process. Alternatively, you can use a Lee factory Crimp Die after seating the bullet. There will be enough tension left in the case neck after pulling to hold the re-seated bullet in place before crimping.

Re-cycling military 7.62 and .30-06 ball ammo by pulling the original bullet and replacing it with a match bullet of the same weight was once a common practice, known as "Mexican Match" ammo. If doing this with a different weight of bullet, the differential in bullet weight, as well as the unknown nature of the propellant, means that the powder should be discarded and replaced by a new charge of known propellant suitable for the heavier replacement bullet.
 
Personally, with .311/.312 sized 174/180 grain bullets being almost 40 bucks a box for 100 tax in, I buy the old Russian re-pack stuff for 6 bucks a box. I pop the bullets with an impact hammer, and recycle them for plinking. 20 round box of 7.62X54R each $6.00, that's $30.00. Then I just pour a touch of powder into the old cases and crimp the end of the brass for some fun-time blanks. Cheap, and fun for a student who's not making "Oil Patch Money". Get an education boys! Break your mind not your body LOL! ;)
 
For those who like economical shooting, you might consider joining the Army, regular or reserve. Ammo is free.....and you even get paid to shoot it!:) Trouble is, you might get to be a target some day.:eek:
 
"How about just filing of the copper jacket at the end of the bullet or dipping the end in something like ammonia to disolve the copper at the tip? "

Not a good plan. A soft point hunting bullet has a fairly thin jacket and a sfter lead core - all designed to flatten on impact.

A miliary jacket is thicker and the lead core might be too soft or too hard for a good terminal result. And if too much of the tip is cut off, there is a slight risk that the lead core will blow out, leaving the jacket in the bore.

I will admit to making these home-made softpoints in my youth to back up my meagre supply of real soft point ammo. I never had to use one and I soon discovered how to buy a box of bullets and how to repalce the military bullets with real softpoints.
 
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