Cooey 75 extractor help

Riven

Riven

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Burks Falls Ontario
Hello
I have a cooey 75 single shot that will not extract a fired shell. It works fine with live ammo and empties from a different gun but will not extract it's own fired shells.
Extractor claw looks good and the gun is clean. I checked for chamber damage from dry fire and cant find any.
Just looking for advice where to go from here and possibility how to take the bolt apart.
Thanks in advance.
 
Riven said:
Hello
I have a cooey 75 single shot that will not extract a fired shell. It works fine with live ammo and empties from a different gun but will not extract it's own fired shells.
Extractor claw looks good and the gun is clean. I checked for chamber damage from dry fire and cant find any.
Just looking for advice where to go from here and possibility how to take the bolt apart.
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

One of our club Cooey 75's had this same problem, even after replacing the extractor claw. However, there is a work-around that you might try. After firing a live round, flip the bolt handle to the upright position, but do not pull it back using the bolt knob. Instead, pull the bolt back using the cocking knob (with the bolt handle in the vertical position). This method works like a charm on our Model 75.
 
There is an easy fix for that, if it is actually a chamber that has a burned area, from firing short or long 22rf ammo.

If you know someone with a lathe, drill out the chamber and solder or even use one of the new, very impressive epoxies to glue in a pre reamed insert.

I've done this with several old 22 rimfire rifles. One of them has well over 10k rounds through it since replacing the worn chamber. It hasn't lost any accuracy either.

Some folks curl up their noses at this practice but it's a cheap, easy safe and effective fix for a rifle that doesn't have enough value to warrant rebarreling, sleeving etc.
 
Clean the chamber with a bore brush and oil spun on an electric drill. This will take down light rust and powder fouling.
A little bit of gunk will hang onto a fired case.
 
gunrunner100 said:
Clean the chamber with a bore brush and oil spun on an electric drill. This will take down light rust and powder fouling.
A little bit of gunk will hang onto a fired case.
Click to expand...

THIS ,,, plus I often use a .24 Cal. brush for .22 RF chambers , especially in revolvers.
 
Dry firing may have peened over the edge of the chamber to catch on the expanded shell.
A few strokes with a chain saw file might clear the offending lip.
I had this happen with a model 60 and it fixed it perfectly.
 
My cooey 39 and 75 models I clean my rounds with a towel to clean the brass. It helps them from needing 2 extractions. both my rifles have peened over the edge of the chamber burr as Bubba Yugga describes ,as the extractor slides down the cone to catch the brass rim there is a burr there and I don't know how to get it off.
 
Thanks for all the advice
I just ran some cylinder honing compound on a brush wrapped in a patch. Did 25/30 passes then cleaned.
Still no luck using old fired brass. I'm in town to a test shot is not possible. Until my wife leaves then a 2x4 in the basement will work as a back stop. ;)
Loaded round measures. .2235. Cooey fired round measures .226 at the base and .2245 at the mouth. Compare that to a cci stinger from my 10 22 measures. 2275 at th base and .2255 at the mouth. I assume being a semi its blowing the case oversize a bit.
Going to do a little more honing another day and see what happens.

Does any one know how to disassemble the bolt?
 
islandguy said:
One of our club Cooey 75's had this same problem, even after replacing the extractor claw. However, there is a work-around that you might try. After firing a live round, flip the bolt handle to the upright position, but do not pull it back using the bolt knob. Instead, pull the bolt back using the cocking knob (with the bolt handle in the vertical position). This method works like a charm on our Model 75.
Click to expand...

This did actually help. Could get some partial extractions and a full full emections. But was using an old fired shell not a new one every time.
 
Tried some test shots today. It is better after honing and light file work where the firing pin should hit, but it's still not ejecting reliably.
To remove the extractor to I just pry it out of the groove and pull it free from the bolt handle? Thinking it might have crud built up under it.
Dont want to mess with the chamber any more if I dont have to.
 
The indexing pin has to be driven out of the side of the bolt. This round pin’s end rides in the receiver cut out (right side).
The opposing side of the bolt will have to be examined carefully as the pin’s left side will be polished into the body of the bolt. You can always try removing from the right side with some smooth jaw pliers.
Once removed, the striker rod ‘may’ come out of the rear portion of the bolt but 9 times out of 10, it will be stuck. This needs removal so that the striker nut on the front end of the bolt can be removed.
Good luck.
 
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