Cooey model 60 trigger job?

D

daver36

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Amaranth Township, Ontario
Hey guys,
So I'm a guy that can never leave anything alone. My cooey has the typical 5 or 6 feet of trigger travel before it breaks, I was wondering if anyone out there has ever done anything to mod this. I was looking at the bolt and was thinking I could take a hand file slowly and carefully to the shelf the sear(?) Sits on. Shortening that I think would work. Thoughts? My biggest question is will this take the hardening away from the surface and will i have to re-harden it. My worries with doing this is the bolt doesn't look like I can disassemble it and I I'm not sure how much heat I want around the firing pin spring. Any experience with this out there that can guide me? Thanks in advance guys.
Cheers,
Dave
 
Geez you guys..if ya haven't got anything helpful to say, why do you even bother posting...

daver36, both my 60's break just over 3lbs. Most all my Cooeys are close to that.
Not sure you will improve on this by much. I have not polished the sear or any metal part that touches another. You might want to start there and see if that helps.
I spent a lot of time on one of my 10/22 (port & polish job) no extra parts and man it made a huge difference.
A half decent trigger gauge would be a must too. Around $75 (Lyman Electronic Digital Trigger Pull Gauge)
As mentioned in your first post "hand file slowly and carefully" I don't think this will change the tempering of the metal.
As long as you're not changing the temperature of the metal like say with a mini grinder.
If your Cooey has any sentimental value...maybe look for another to practice on
If you look around you can pickup a old one for less than $100. (not in good shape)
Go slow.. re n re lots to test.
Postup your finding when you done!!!
Happy Holidays too.

:cheers:
 
Stay away from modifying the bolt. Don't ask me how I know this....
What did work well for me was fabricating a piece of wood that fills in the space ahead of the trigger. This limits the amount of creep in the trigger. This piece is epoxied in place and trigger-bolt engagement is adjusted by filing until desired engagement is achieved.
 
Many older guns, like Cooey 60, will rely on substantial engagement between trigger sear and ledge on bolt to ensure the rifle doesn't fire accidentally - from a bump, for example. As you "improve" the trigger pull, or reduce the creep - by filing, grinding, or installing blocks, be aware that you are reducing the built in "safety margin". And what you have may indeed be excessive. But very difficult (usually) to come back from taking off too much metal. A good "test" is to #### the arm, and drop the butt endways onto a floor - gives the rifle a good "jolt" - tests whether the sear engagement that you have left is sufficient. Also a good test to do with the safety "on" - on many designs, engaging the safety actually pulls the bolt ledge off the trigger sear - you want to know, for sure, that when you turn the safety to "off" that the trigger sear will actually re-catch that bolt ledge. Triggers / sears usually easier to replace than bolts. Contact angles are usually pretty critical - don't be altering them! If you must mess with it, usually a good idea to get a replacement part first, then install it, and work on it - that way always have the original part to go back to using if things get out of whack.
 
you are comparing your Cooey to a modern firearm that's greatly improved at the time your Cooey was manufactured that was good enough and time to leave good enough alone.
 
Potashminer said:
Many older guns, like Cooey 60, will rely on substantial engagement between trigger sear and ledge on bolt to ensure the rifle doesn't fire accidentally - from a bump, for example. As you "improve" the trigger pull, or reduce the creep - by filing, grinding, or installing blocks, be aware that you are reducing the built in "safety margin". And what you have may indeed be excessive. But very difficult (usually) to come back from taking off too much metal. A good "test" is to #### the arm, and drop the butt endways onto a floor - gives the rifle a good "jolt" - tests whether the sear engagement that you have left is sufficient. Also a good test to do with the safety "on" - on many designs, engaging the safety actually pulls the bolt ledge off the trigger sear - you want to know, for sure, that when you turn the safety to "off" that the trigger sear will actually re-catch that bolt ledge. Triggers / sears usually easier to replace than bolts. Contact angles are usually pretty critical - don't be altering them! If you must mess with it, usually a good idea to get a replacement part first, then install it, and work on it - that way always have the original part to go back to using if things get out of whack.
Click to expand...


What the man above said . if I was you and I wanted a 22 with a nice trigger pull - light one I'd buy another 22 or learn to shoot the one I have with the trigger pull the way it is . or as the gentleman above said find a replacement part first. I tried to fart around with the trigger pull on a old cooey single shot 22 and ended up leaving it alone. it's very accurate and it goes bang every time .
 
daver36 said:
Thanks for the insight. It's more playing with the creep before the break. I'm not sure it'll help either, but this gun is far from a show piece, and I like to tinker, so I thought it might be worth a try.
Click to expand...

I tinkered with my own 60 to improve the trigger. I swapped the trigger spring for a slightly lighter spring and I "fixed" the creep. But I'm not sure you'll like how I did it. In fact I had to lift the action from the stock to remind myself of what I did a little over 10 years ago.

First off the pivot pin on the trigger is swapped out and replaced with a new solid rivet I made from a selected bit of wire. A favorite trick for me at times like this is to find a bright finished nail of the proper size and cut off a piece to fit and stake the ends so it can't come out by using a center punch to make a couple of upsets on the end so it can't easily go back through the hole.

The trigger had a lot of side to side play which led me to also shimming between the pivot lug and the U slot in the trigger. You can't get a good lighter lower creep trigger in a safe manner if the trigger is super wobbly from side to side. So you'll want to similarly shim things and fit the pin to the holes for a very low slop fit. And that sets the stage for a better and safer low creep setup.

Next is to fix the creep. But working the shelf and hook that is half way back on the tail piece you see in there isn't the answer. I'm not sure what the function of that little hook on the shelf is but that's not where the sear hooks when the bolt is cocked. The actual cocking hook on the lip on the front of the tail piece. And there is no "shelf" above that so the sear hook snaps up as far as it can go. You should find that there is a roll pin in a hole on the front of the steel portion of the trigger/sear that limits the travel. The return spring pushes the trigger forward and thus the sear upward until that roll pin meets the receiver and blocks more travel.

What I did is to replace that roll pin with a small suitable size common head nail cut off and put through the hole and then center punched on the other side to stake the pin into place. The bigger head of the nail was then filed down for a little flat by an amount that gave me a low amount of creep but still a safely positive amount of sear to bolt tail engagement. If you go too crazy with a very slight overlap then just wobbles in the trigger or the play in the bolt to receiver fit can result in an accidental release. So don't get TOO crazy. It's not a precision piece like it would need to be to work that way.

Reduce but don't totally eliminate the creep. Cycle it a bunch of times and sort of "fondle" the tail piece while cocked with a snap cap or drywall plug to make sure it can't be casually jostled or jiggled into dropping the bolt. If it does drop then file the nail travel stop a little and think about if you might have made the return spring too soft as well

Even with my conservative side of improvements the trigger is MUCH nicer. I've not shot the rifle for some years now but I think I need to take it out again for some Cooey Lovin'.

Hope that helps with your own. It really helps if you have a set of calipers to measure the pin and to take with you when you go nail shopping.
 
I better way to reduce over travel of the trigger on return is to mechanically block the trigger from returning that far. Stop it just a hair after it engages the sear.
I own a model 60 myself (####ing LOVE it)
I've never looked at the mechanism in depth. You can bore into the receiver and tap it to thread in a screw or piece of steel that can be bent or shaped to bump into the base front of the trigger to stop it just ahead of where it engages the sear maybe. That way you aren't messing with the sear and bolt angles etc If you take off too much you could create a much bigger issue. Buying a new trigger or bolt for it if you muck it up would be the same price as buying a whole new rifle lol (one of the reasons I love them so much personally ;))

I've done sear recutting, polishing etc on numerous rifles. It's slow touchy nerve wracking work. You can really improve the feel and pull weight, creep and break point.
But over travel is a trigger reset issue. This is what you're trying to address.
I would look into a light modification which blocks the trigger from returning too far past the point of where it engages/catches the sear on the bolt.

I hope that makes sense.

I'll disassemble mine tonight after the kids go to bed and maybe see if I can come up with an idea.
 
Overtravel has nothing to do with sear engagement. You are referring to creep. Overtravel adjustment on triggers is performed to limit the rearward travel of the shoe after the sear releases
 
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