Cool Auto 5 video

It looks like that auto 5 is not recoiling enough with those light loads as it is not even ejecting the hulls. Probably using light loads with the action adjusted for heavier loads.
 
It looks like that auto 5 is not recoiling enough with those light loads as it is not even ejecting the hulls. Probably using light loads with the action adjusted for heavier loads.

You are correct Sir.... they according to the hulls are 1 1/8 oz 7 1/5s ...and that is a light or 2 3/4 inch Auto 5. either take some rings out or grease the tube and let er rock and roll.

IH8ATTN what you are witnessing is the BEST most RELIABLE autoloading shotgun ever built. Do yourself a favour grasshopper...run out and get yourself one two or even three. hmmm think ill go oil my auto 5 collection now....almost better than seeing boobies on the internet(almost).
 
all that slow mo of smoking hulls hitting the ground all at the same time is rigged. At least one of those dropping hulls has been on the ground before. Should edit out the hull that had been stepped on.:D or better still adjust that old auto so she really chuck those hulls out.
 
Probably lack of mag tube lube.
I cleaned up the one I got last fall and tried dry silicone lube to see if it would work.
Light loads with dry lube with the rings set on light and it failed to eject.
Quick fix was some 10/30w engine oil on the finger and a quick wipe made A-5 all happy.
There is one of these in the Kamloops B&S non ribbed, 2 3/4" chamber.
Full choke.
It is suppose to be in good shape.
P.M me if you want the phone number.
 
You are correct Sir.... they according to the hulls are 1 1/8 oz 7 1/5s ...and that is a light or 2 3/4 inch Auto 5. either take some rings out or grease the tube and let er rock and roll.

IH8ATTN what you are witnessing is the BEST most RELIABLE autoloading shotgun ever built. Do yourself a favour grasshopper...run out and get yourself one two or even three. hmmm think ill go oil my auto 5 collection now....almost better than seeing boobies on the internet(almost).

Also, you must hold your shoulder firmly against the butt stock on the auto-5 (and all recoilng barrel long guns) so the barrel can recoil it's full length of travel. If you don't hold your shoulder firm against the butt stock, the gun will travel backward with the barrel and it will not eject the empty. At the beginning of the video it looks like the gent does not have a firm shoulder to the butt stock.
 
Also, you must hold your shoulder firmly against the butt stock on the auto-5 (and all recoilng barrel long guns) so the barrel can recoil it's full length of travel. If you don't hold your shoulder firm against the butt stock, the gun will travel backward with the barrel and it will not eject the empty. At the beginning of the video it looks like the gent does not have a firm shoulder to the butt stock.

^^^^^^^ WORD! having it in a gun vise doesnt help matters either....before i switched to heavy loads for my main crow gun I shot thousands of 3 dram rounds out of a light 12 and "lube the tube" is the way to go;)
 
You are correct Sir.... they according to the hulls are 1 1/8 oz 7 1/5s ...and that is a light or 2 3/4 inch Auto 5. either take some rings out or grease the tube and let er rock and roll.

IH8ATTN what you are witnessing is the BEST most RELIABLE autoloading shotgun ever built. Do yourself a favour grasshopper...run out and get yourself one two or even three. hmmm think ill go oil my auto 5 collection now....almost better than seeing boobies on the internet(almost).

I picked up a minty one already and planning to buy a beater one at the next gun show, if the dude still has it.
 
Many auto fives have a sticky under the fore stock showing how to install the friction rings. Maybe someone could post a copy.
 
Many auto fives have a sticky under the fore stock showing how to install the friction rings. Maybe someone could post a copy.

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ask and you shall receive..if you can see it, this is from my gun.
 
Speaking of the friction rings and bushings has any one seen or heard of a video showing proper set up for light and heavy loads

Good pics of ring set up posted above.

Also, I'm not sure about a video, but go to Browning Firearms website and type in OWNER MANUALS in the search box. Then go through the list for the Auto 5. Remember, there are two models of the auto 5 shotgun. One is a "Light" (meaning a 2 3/4" chamber only) and the other is a "Magnum" (meaning both a 2 3/4" and 3" chamber). The owners manuals will show a diagram of how the rings are supposed to be set up.

It's important to remember if the rings are set for light target loads, and you fire a heavy hunting load, you run a chance of splitting the wooden forend at the bottom because of the extra shock vibrating in that area when the barrel comes all the way back to it's end of travel. You could eventually start to damage the working parts inside the action if you continue to shoot a steady diet of heavy hunting loads over the years when the rings are set for light target loads.

If the rings are set for heavy loads, and you fire a target load, the worst that can happen is the gun does not eject the empty, and you will get a jam.

Friction rings do what they are named for. I'm talking about the brass rings which are split. They adjust the speed in which the barrel travels by putting friction (dragging) upon the magazine tube. The steel rings have a taper shape (as does the barrel ring), and the brass rings are squeezed inbetween when the barrel comes back, causing the brass rings to "grip and drag" on the magazine tube. The Magnum auto 5 has a 2nd brass ring which gives more friction because it now covers more surface area of the magazine tube, so the barrel does not come back too fast (hard) and cause any stress to the other parts of the gun when the barrel stops at it's end of travel.
 
You are correct Sir.... they according to the hulls are 1 1/8 oz 7 1/5s ...and that is a light or 2 3/4 inch Auto 5. either take some rings out or grease the tube and let er rock and roll.

IH8ATTN what you are witnessing is the BEST most RELIABLE autoloading shotgun ever built. Do yourself a favour grasshopper...run out and get yourself one two or even three. hmmm think ill go oil my auto 5 collection now....almost better than seeing boobies on the internet(almost).

I read somewhere that the Diggers would get their ma and pa to send one of these to them while they were fighting in Vietnam, possibly so they could do some duck hunting in between battles - :p. I seen a pic of one from South Africa or Rhodesia that was full choke probably a 10 round magazine. :p
 
Speaking of the friction rings and bushings has any one seen or heard of a video showing proper set up for light and heavy loads

www.browning.com

On the 2 3/4", the two piece brass ring needs to be on top with the split rings lined up together. The taper of the brass ring pointing to the end of the barrel mag hoop. This two piece ring position never changes on this part. The steel ring/spacer is the one that is moved. I find it easier to remember that the flat side of this ring always faces the big recoil spring. On heavy loads, it is placed under the two piece ring......with the flat side against the spring.
On light load, the steel ring is moved to the bottom of the mag tube up against the receiver, again with the flat side against the big spring.
Some of the forewood have a map on the inside that shows the ring placement.

So on heavy loads, 1.-the spring goes on the mag tube first, 2.-then the thin steel ring (flat side to spring) 3.-brass ring with the more bevelled end facing forward, 4.- barrel, 5.-wood and 6.-lastly the cap with the thread.

Light loads starts with 1.-the thin steel ring up against the receiver (flat side against the spring) 2.-the spring, 3.-two piece split ring, bevel forward,
4.-barrel, 5.-wood and then 6.-the threaded cap.

I hope I haven't confused you. If so, find your way through the Browning site.
It is referenced there.

Looky.
 
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