Cooling the barrel, Can you speed it up?

Here's the answer - the "Coleman Rechargeable Quickpump":

Coleman_Rechargable_Quickpump.jpg


It's not my idea (I got it from an article in "Handloader 257"), and it's not even a new idea, but it works. The two nozzles need to be tweaked. After cutting off the "hood" on the small one, its outside diameter is about 0.375" and the large one has an inside diameter of 0.600". I just attach a 3/8" Inside Diameter flexible plastic hose to the small one and place the other end in the chamber.

I bought one from LeBaron for about $35 and it blows a mighty wind. It's intended for blowing up air mattresses, and can be found in the camping section. Being rechargeable makes it portable too - perfect for the range.
 
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Laff, I wouldn't dunk $5000 worth of rifle into ANYTHING,,,,,, shoot slower and you get rest's between relays. We,re talking precision rifles here right, not hunting rifles.
If your desperate to cool it consider a cool damp cloth maybe wet it from a bottle of water. I wouldn't put any water inside the barrell. I watched a guy last year at a match pack up and go home after the on again off again rain. The water in is barrell was putting pressure up past what his primers could take and was popping them out.

M.
 
The "stack" idea works well for casual cooling, much faster than leaving it horizontal. But it still is not fast enough for what some people want/need.
 
In competition rifles where time limits are imposed, some of the boys in the summer (100+ degree temps) use water cooling systems between relays.
A small aquarium pump, with a hose fitted to a bore guide.
Large rubber hose over the muzzle feeding back into a cooler where the pump resides. It does not take very long to cool the barrel down to a reasonable temp, clean the barrel, reload and make it back to the line on time.
It is a pain in that one must lug more gear to the range.
12V systems may be necessary if a source of power is not available on your range.
 
Same here, we're pushing -40, your barrel gets cryo'd between strings. Heading to the range in 45 mins, we're mid -40's with the windchill, should do the trick.

Windchill dosent effect steel but either way if its -40 something with the wind it has to be around -30 something with out so either way Your cooling need should be taken care of
 
Windchill dosent effect steel but either way if its -40 something with the wind it has to be around -30 something with out so either way Your cooling need should be taken care of

That's what all books say but there's a kink to it. Windchill doesn't affect anything that's already at the ambient temperature but it greatly affects anything that's not. Like a hot barrel for example. Think about the fan attached to the car radiator. It does speed-up the heat transfer.
Now back to the issue, I've seen a motorcycle dryer (like in getting rid of water after you wash it) at the local Harley dealership, and man, that thing could power a sailboat. That would cool down a barrel pretty quick.
 
Using CO2, the best advantage will be had if it can be delivered in liquid form. That way, its heat of vapourization is available to chill the barrel. If the evaporation happens prior to the regulator, a certain amount of its heat absorption capability is used to chill the CO2 bottle and the surroundings.

I SWAG that it takes about 6 grams of liquid CO2 to remove the barrel heat from one shot. At $2/lb for CO2, about 32cents of CO2 to remove the heat from a dozen shots (which is cheaper than the primers used to fire those shots)
 
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