A few years ago friend of mine who was a butcher told me he was taking a cordless reciprocating saw instead of a chain saw for quartering moose-but that was back when they were only 9 volt-I'm wondering if the more powerful [18 and 24 volt] reciprocating saws would be viable.[I presume they use recip saws in packing plants for quartering beef]Anybody use one?I'm thinking if you had a fresh battery-you'd have plenty of power with an 18 volt model,and it shouldn't die on you for the sawing the back bone
cordless recip saw for quartering
- Thread starter ratherbefishin
- Start date
In cold weather,even the 24 volt batteries do not last long.We used both batteries,and didn't finish the moose.A small chainsaw with vegetable oil on the bar is the best that I have used.The small electric units are reasonably priced,and work well.I power mine in the field with my honda generator.
- Location
- Saskatchewan
Ive used a one with a cord on elk and it was like a hot knife through butter. This has me thinking as I get prepared for moose this fall.
I'm aware of the cold weather effect on batteries-but the main cut is splitting the carcass,and that shouldn't take too long with a new blade.of course in the field you don't have the luxoury of hanging it,its got to be on the ground.I saw one guy cut the backbone at the loin first before splitting it-that seemed to make the job a bit more manageable.Other guys take off the hindquarters,loin and front shoulders-then bone out the rest of the front quarters,leaving the ribcage and backbone in the bush.
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We use a reciprocating saw, but it's very different from the more common types. This one has the same general shape as a traditional, manual wood saw. The full length blade slides back and forth and is replaceable. We have a bone blade installed on ours. I'm on dial-up, otherwise I'd try to find a pic.
Whatever you decide, I think you'd be better off with a 110V powered unit and a small generator.
Whatever you decide, I think you'd be better off with a 110V powered unit and a small generator.
Make sure you get a good quality blade. $7 to $10 will get you one that will last for at least 3 or 4 critters. We use a corded recip on beef and it works fine. I use a 12 inch blade, but was curious about the longer blades BCSteve mentioned above. I tried a Can Tire special on the last cow we butchered but I had to switch back to an older used blade because the new one was no good. The old quality one was still much better.
Gord
Gord
- Location
- Saskatchewan
Why split lengthwise down the backbone? That's what commercial meatcutters do, but it never made sense to me -and for what it's worth, I come from three generations of butchers. I use a knife to remove the four legs, then take off the rib slabs with a saw, but even a simple hand saw can do that job. Then split the carcass fore and aft between the second and third ribs. You will have 8 pieces - four legs, two rib slabs, the loin, and the rib/neck section. By keeping the loin intact the high quality cuts remain bone chip free and less exposed to air and dirt.
An added advantage to the 8 piece method is the versatility of smaller pieces and the lack of sharp bone edges to cut your hands on when you're packing the moose out of the bush.
I also do not recommend final cutting of game meat with a saw. Cuts will be highest quality when hung for a week or so "on the bone" and then cut with a knife, not a saw. All fat should be removed. Much of what people associate with a "gamey" taste in venison is the oxidized fat and bone chips that result from meat cuts made with a bandsaw. After the meat is frozen for more than a couple months, the "sawdust" is the first to go rancid.
An added advantage to the 8 piece method is the versatility of smaller pieces and the lack of sharp bone edges to cut your hands on when you're packing the moose out of the bush.
I also do not recommend final cutting of game meat with a saw. Cuts will be highest quality when hung for a week or so "on the bone" and then cut with a knife, not a saw. All fat should be removed. Much of what people associate with a "gamey" taste in venison is the oxidized fat and bone chips that result from meat cuts made with a bandsaw. After the meat is frozen for more than a couple months, the "sawdust" is the first to go rancid.
interesting-do you leave the rib-neck section in one piece-or cut it in two?On a big Yukon moose-breaking it into 8 or 9 pieces makes a lot of sense if you have to transport it at all.I know some guys bone it out-but I like the ribs and also the neck/backbones for stew meat.
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- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
Back at camp, we have used two axes, one striking the back of the other. Was a lot faster than I thought it would be.
Chainsaw is very fast, but also very messy.
Reciprocating saw AKA sawzall worked fine too, but the choice of blade is important. Fine blades plug quickly, and are pretty much useless.
Chainsaw is very fast, but also very messy.
Reciprocating saw AKA sawzall worked fine too, but the choice of blade is important. Fine blades plug quickly, and are pretty much useless.
tried the chop saw a few times..could neaver get a blade to hold up..
always reverted back to the chain saw..
but now im thinking of a blade a guy made at work
.he took a piece of our bandsaw blade,which is one inch wide..then he used a grinder to cut it ,then used a dremil tool to shape the end to fit his saw..that blade would cut anything from wood to nails without a problem
now i know what im doing when i get back to work..
anyone else want a hunk of blade let me know,but its up to you to cut it to fit your own saw
always reverted back to the chain saw..
but now im thinking of a blade a guy made at work
.he took a piece of our bandsaw blade,which is one inch wide..then he used a grinder to cut it ,then used a dremil tool to shape the end to fit his saw..that blade would cut anything from wood to nails without a problemnow i know what im doing when i get back to work..
anyone else want a hunk of blade let me know,but its up to you to cut it to fit your own saw
We use a 12" pruning blade from CTC, coarse tooth pattern, 5 or 6 bucks I believe, and a dewalt rec saw with a cord. Much better than the old handsaw or axe. Moose gets hauled out whole (gutted) or cut in half, with the ATV and then quartered back at the garage.
We use to cut into 8 with an axe back when we had to haul out by hand.
We use to cut into 8 with an axe back when we had to haul out by hand.
Yup those are the best.Coarse staggared tooth pattern are the only way to go.
The inline offset tooth blades like the ones in bcsteve's thread from the EE get clogged with marrow,tallow,and bone.Save your money because those ones will just piss you off.
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