Core15 trouble out of the box

easysauce said:
1st step: blame NEA
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This is the second time you have brought up NEA in a completely unrelated thread… what gives?


Failure to eject can be a sign of over gassing, short stroking, or ejector problems. You need to look at a few other things to figure it out. Is the bolt looking back on an empty mag, is it picking up a new round, is there heavy recoil, are their pull marks on the rim of the brass; these are a few things to look for.

Either way I am sure Wanstall’s will sort it out for you.
 
original poster,

in case you cant shoot your gun for a bit

besides checking your spent shells (casings) for markings around the bottom where they get extracted, you can also inspect the bolt, and take off the extractor ( just push out the pin, and make sure you dont lose the spring) and check if

A: the extractors "tooth" is bend, too shallow or physically out of spec
B: see if you have a small rubber "o" ring (extractor spring booster) in place
 
*MALICE* said:
So it's not pulling the round out of the chamber but it is cycling far enough back to strip a new round from the magazine? Does it look like it's 'tearing' at the rim on the case?
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Malice,
If the extractor is tearing at the rim or even taking pieces of the rim off the cartridge, what would be the cause?
I don't mean to hijack this thread, but this is exactly what's happening to one of my rifles in addition to the FTE/double feed issue that the OP is having.

Cheers,
Peter
 
You're extracting the spent round but it's not ejecting while the bolt has stroked far enough to pick up the next round. Winchester is hot ammo and the bolt is moving fast: the spent case isn't staying on the bolt to eject.

Do an extractor upgrade: install an O-ring or Wolff extra power extractor spring to help the extractor grip the brass rim.

Been there and done that.
 
Make sure the buffer tube castle nut is tight and staked .. If the castle nut is loose you will have all kinds of issues .. When i see someone at the range having issues with their AR, this turns out to be the problem 80% of the time . I keep a AR tool in my range bag now lol.
 
Orvis said:
Malice,
If the extractor is tearing at the rim or even taking pieces of the rim off the cartridge, what would be the cause?
I don't mean to hijack this thread, but this is exactly what's happening to one of my rifles in addition to the FTE/double feed issue that the OP is having.

Cheers,
Peter
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my norc was doing this, as well as my Daniel defense BCG,

the DD i was able to fix by filing off some excess material in the tooth of the extractor, the norinco needed a new extractor entirely.

the deformation is (at least in my cases) due to the extractor not having a firm hold, so when it does eject the rim of the case is deformed, other times it slips right off, leaving the case in the chamber, and the cycles to push the extra round into the chamber.
 
Malice,
If the extractor is tearing at the rim or even taking pieces of the rim off the cartridge, what would be the cause?
I don't mean to hijack this thread, but this is exactly what's happening to one of my rifles in addition to the FTE/double feed issue that the OP is having.
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Could be that your gun is over-gassed and cycling too hard and/or that you need to upgrade the spring/donut in your extractor. Change the latter first, as it's a cheap and easy fix. Then see if it's ejecting cases between 12-3 o'clock to tell if it's over-gassed.

He said FMJ in post #3
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Whoops, missed that. I thought it was his sigline :redface:
 
Make sure the buffer tube castle nut is tight and staked .. If the castle nut is loose you will have all kinds of issues .. When i see someone at the range having issues with their AR, this turns out to be the problem 80% of the time . I keep a AR tool in my range bag now lol.
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I find when the buffer tube is loose, you can usually feel the bolt carrier binding when you cycle it back by hand.
 
Mirk said:
This is the second time you have brought up NEA in a completely unrelated thread… what gives?
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I thought easysauce's joke was kind of funny...A Core15 has issues out of the box and everyone posts helpful tips, recommends new extractor, etc...An NEA-15 has problems out of the box and the replies are more like, "the AR is not a new design, how could NEA f-it up?" and "my Norinco was half the price and worked out of the box!". You have to admit, that is kind of funny ;)
 
Oh I get it now; the new joke on here is to accuse every non-functioning AR of being an NEA… Ha… Ha… Ha… Good One… :rolleyes:

I guess any press is good press…
 
Why don't people ever put pics in these?

The one with wear in the upper did, and that was common inside any AR with any mileage on it. lol.....####.

Its like any other trouble shooting, 98% of which has been tried already.
Soak your gun in a good lube, like slip2000 or something, to take lube out of the equation
then;
1) different ammo ( AE seems to cycle well in most guns, and isnt to expensive)
2)different mags ( I know you said you tried 7 pmags. try a steel 5/30 and see)
3)different bolt (you must know someone with a piston bolt! :p)
if none of those work, its probably the gas system.

if its #1, some guns just hate some ammo, buy different ammo, carry on.
if its #2, youre stoned, because pmags tend to just work.
if its #3, or continues to FTE, you have a warranty issue, and youll have a good idea if its the bolt or the upper.

if it'll cycle well after one of those, you'll know who to shake your fist at. I wouldnt go swapping parts until you try more than one type of ammunition. Just a thought.
 
all the spent cases look fine, no mark at all, just checked 'em.

the bolt lock open on the last round (but did not at least once)

castle nut is tight enough, all parts "looks" fine, gaz key, bolt and bcg...

so... gonna clean and lube it with a different gun oil (and put a little more as I did not put a lot at first), gonna test different ammo as I have other at home, can't wait to make it to the range again to have new feedback.
 
Considering what you just said it sounds like short stroking. Check your gas block, is it straight, is it on all the way?
 
OP - Is the bolt stopping behind the next round or on top of the next round?

also run your FIRING PIN DRY... absolutely dry, no lube at all, and none coating the channel it goes into, this is the only component that HAS TO BE DRY

any oil on the firing pin can work to the front, filling the the channel into a hydraulic press instead of a channel for the firing pin, the oil wont compress, and the pin will hit the primer lightly, if at all, even a very very small amount of oil will do this.

I have had this happen to me when I got some CLP in fireing pin channel before.
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I don't think this is the problem as it seems to be firing okay
 
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