Corrosive ammo cleaning...help.
- Thread starter Mermaniel
- Start date
Just use boiling water and then clean like you'd do to any semi auto. It's not difficult and I feel a lot of people go way overboard with cleaning these things. I've never had an issue, ever.
G96 works great. Once you've done the boiling water (and the water has disappeared and the rifle has cooled down a little) spray G96 and let it run down through the barrel (muzzle down) and then bore snake it a few times (spray a bit of G96 on the tail end of the bore snake so it leaves the barrel lubricated). It works awesome. I just let the G96 do it's thing while I clean the bolt assembly and then snake it. The whole process takes 20 minutes and my CZ858 is spotless.
G96 works great. Once you've done the boiling water (and the water has disappeared and the rifle has cooled down a little) spray G96 and let it run down through the barrel (muzzle down) and then bore snake it a few times (spray a bit of G96 on the tail end of the bore snake so it leaves the barrel lubricated). It works awesome. I just let the G96 do it's thing while I clean the bolt assembly and then snake it. The whole process takes 20 minutes and my CZ858 is spotless.
Sorry if Imbeing annoying...this will be my first rifle and I cant afford to F it up so I wanna make sure I get it right. All your help is really appreciated.
So disassemble, run boiling water down barrel, gastube, piston. Scrub bore with brush. Poor more water. Wait till everything is dry. Spray bolt, bolt carrier, op rod and spring and recoil spring with G96 or Slip2000. Wipe everything down, then lube everything with Remoil or other.
Did I get it right? thanks!
So disassemble, run boiling water down barrel, gastube, piston. Scrub bore with brush. Poor more water. Wait till everything is dry. Spray bolt, bolt carrier, op rod and spring and recoil spring with G96 or Slip2000. Wipe everything down, then lube everything with Remoil or other.
Did I get it right? thanks!
I put all the parts in a small container in the sink, and just run hot tap water into said container with some dish washing soap. Let sit for a good few minute's while puting the bore into the same hot water container and run a brass bore brush through it from the breach side... it sucks the water into the barrel, and cleans brush and bore with every stroke.
Dries fast.. just lube all parts and run a jag with a good bore cleaner through the barrel. Then oil as usual.
Its actually a lot cheaper and less messy than using all kinds of sprays and other goopy stuff.
Dries fast.. just lube all parts and run a jag with a good bore cleaner through the barrel. Then oil as usual.
Its actually a lot cheaper and less messy than using all kinds of sprays and other goopy stuff.
As a side note, if you fire,let,s say less than 100 rounds and you know that you will shoot soon again, you dont even need the bore cleaner. Just pour boiling water down the bore,follow with a dry patch and a lightly oily patch to finish. Same with piston,bolt,and bolt carrier, wipe those with a clothe saturated with hot water(wear glove) then wipe dry and oil,that,s it
You will not have rust and be ready for the next range time. After more rounds, repeat and use bore cleaner after the water flush then oil.Jocelyn
Romeo Sierra
Regular
It's OK buddy. Everyone has a first day.
Water- gets rid of the salt/corrosives.
Slip 2000 - degreases, de-salts and removes ALL baked on carbon and #### with almost no effort. Slip 2000 is not a lube. Perhaps the name " slip" evokes a visual of a lube but it isn't a lube, it's a degreaser and carbon stripper. If you haven't tried it you should. Do this to everything. EVERYTHING.
Grease- the rails of your carrier. So that you can see the grease scooging out around the edges. Then wipe.
Lightly oil. LIGHTLY oil. A patch and run it through the barrel and then wipe everything down. LIGHTLY. Too much oil will cause more problems with dirt and carbon sticking to the oil. Buddy, I mean LIGHTLY.
Remember, it's a 700.00 battle rifle not a faberge egg.
It will get chipped, it will get worn, That's not a bad thing...it's called patina.
Then go shooting.
;-)
R.S
Water- gets rid of the salt/corrosives.
Slip 2000 - degreases, de-salts and removes ALL baked on carbon and #### with almost no effort. Slip 2000 is not a lube. Perhaps the name " slip" evokes a visual of a lube but it isn't a lube, it's a degreaser and carbon stripper. If you haven't tried it you should. Do this to everything. EVERYTHING.
Grease- the rails of your carrier. So that you can see the grease scooging out around the edges. Then wipe.
Lightly oil. LIGHTLY oil. A patch and run it through the barrel and then wipe everything down. LIGHTLY. Too much oil will cause more problems with dirt and carbon sticking to the oil. Buddy, I mean LIGHTLY.
Remember, it's a 700.00 battle rifle not a faberge egg.
It will get chipped, it will get worn, That's not a bad thing...it's called patina.
Then go shooting.
;-)
R.S
38-55 marlin
New member
- Location
- manitou mb.
all I have done for my SKS is clean the bore and gas tube with my standard gun cleaning products and lightly oil all moving parts,and the bore. the same thing as I do with all my guns before I put them away, because I never know how long they will be in storage before I pull them out again
I have never used water ... only WD40 for cleaning ... My bores look perfect in all my CZs, SKSs ,mosins ect.,, no rust ever .. Most militaries used solvents and such to clean off the corrosive primer salts ,never water (i think canam sells US surplus bore cleaner).. Imagine that it would suck trying to clean M1 garand in WW2 with boiling water out in the field . not happening ..
Too bad modern solvent manufacturers such as Hoppes or pretty much anyone else hadn't taken into account the use of corrosive ammunition... oh wait...
I have never used boiling water on any of my rifles or handguns that I shoot corrosive ammo out of. I use modern gun cleaning solvents like Hoppes #9, Break Free CLP, or G96. I have never had a problem.
Using boiling water works, but it is a complicated and unnecessary step. Clean your gun thoroughly with a modern gun cleaning product and you will be A-OK.
Do not use windex on your guns. The ammonia present in windex is not enough to neutralise the corrosive salts and is not any better than pouring water down your gun.
I have never used boiling water on any of my rifles or handguns that I shoot corrosive ammo out of. I use modern gun cleaning solvents like Hoppes #9, Break Free CLP, or G96. I have never had a problem.
Using boiling water works, but it is a complicated and unnecessary step. Clean your gun thoroughly with a modern gun cleaning product and you will be A-OK.
Do not use windex on your guns. The ammonia present in windex is not enough to neutralise the corrosive salts and is not any better than pouring water down your gun.
Clobbersauras
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Waaay out west.
I've used this stuff for years. I've shot in the rain and I usually shoot 250 rounds per session. I've never had any corrosion, and that includes the aftermarket muzzle brake.
I use this stuff only. To clean and re-lube! I use it on the bore too. Disassemble, spray it on all the parts and down the bore, wait 5 minutes, then clean thoroughly with a rag, brushes, boresnake and Q-tips. Every couple of sessions I use a chamber brush.
I use this stuff only. To clean and re-lube! I use it on the bore too. Disassemble, spray it on all the parts and down the bore, wait 5 minutes, then clean thoroughly with a rag, brushes, boresnake and Q-tips. Every couple of sessions I use a chamber brush.
Nothing complicated about boiling a kettle of water and flush the bore. Like you said, ammonia do nothing against salts, the only reason to use windex its because its water based so will flush the salts but boilin water is cheaper and more effective.
Jocelyn
Hot Water +
It makes flushing the bore, etc, very mess free
nice device but i believe corrosive wont be confined to the bore alone so some water spillage around the chamber is OK . i use a kettle .
this is true, my test showed that enuff windex will do as well as water but not as well as boiled water .
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There is so much debate about this... My SKS has a chrome bore, so that's one thing. If you don't have one, rust is more likely. I think climate plays a big factor in defining the minimum cleaning.
So here's my experience from dry Alberta.
Have tried:
* Windex
* Boiling water from a kettle
* G96
* Foaming Wipeout
* Butch's bore shine
I also know a guy who never cleaned in 3 years (always left the gun in the barn, shooting maybe 200 rounds over that time), and on teardown, I found no rust. Was kind of surprised at that. He also lives in a dry climate (near Calgary).
Now, if you like to tear a gun down completely every time you go shooting, more power to you.
I found Butch's Bore Shine works better than Wipeout for getting out copper fouling, and that boiling water is too much mess/trouble for me.
So far, I have only found a bit of rust on that muzzle brake after the water/windex cleanings. The rest of the time, nothing at all.
These days, I personally will spray it down with G96 at the range, case it, and go home and then field strip and clean when I feel like it, usually a few days later. I also leave the bolt and gas portion of the gun as dry as possible, since any lube in those areas just makes crud formation possible (so they say).
So here's my experience from dry Alberta.
Have tried:
* Windex
* Boiling water from a kettle
* G96
* Foaming Wipeout
* Butch's bore shine
I also know a guy who never cleaned in 3 years (always left the gun in the barn, shooting maybe 200 rounds over that time), and on teardown, I found no rust. Was kind of surprised at that. He also lives in a dry climate (near Calgary).
Now, if you like to tear a gun down completely every time you go shooting, more power to you.
I found Butch's Bore Shine works better than Wipeout for getting out copper fouling, and that boiling water is too much mess/trouble for me.
So far, I have only found a bit of rust on that muzzle brake after the water/windex cleanings. The rest of the time, nothing at all.
These days, I personally will spray it down with G96 at the range, case it, and go home and then field strip and clean when I feel like it, usually a few days later. I also leave the bolt and gas portion of the gun as dry as possible, since any lube in those areas just makes crud formation possible (so they say).
