Corrosive Ammo - So what did the Russians do?
- Thread starter lmar
- Start date
Then why bother cleaning our rifles at all then?
Because KCl is dissolved, not neutralized, by water or aqueous solutions. Anything that can dissolve KCl can flush it out of the bore. Neutralization is something that happens with acid-base chemical reactions.
This is an all too common misunderstanding seen on internet gun forums.
PerversPépère
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Shawinigan (Quebec)
serguei.zhuravlyov
Member
- Location
- St. John's
How did Russians do it?
On the right page of that cleaning manual in Russian says:
".41 Cleaning and lubricating solutions for the carbine:
Alcaline solution to be used for cleaning of the barrel and all other parts that are exposed
to powder gases.
Lubrication to be performed right after cleaning with (hard)standard issue gun lube, temp>+5degC, (which is very similar to general purpose grease you could get here).
The lube to be upplied(sparringly) all through out the barrel, gas system parts and mechanisms that came in contact with burnt gun powder.
In temperatures between +5 and -50 degC [lubricating and cleaning] of the carbine should be performed with liquid lube(that stuff is a bit thicker than Hoppes, very similar to what one might find in small black container that comes with Norc M-14s)
Alcaline solution not to be used in the winter at all, just the liquid lube.
For storing the carbine for prolonged periods of time, 1:1 mix of cannon to gun grease to be used. (I have absolutely No idea what the cannon grease is)
For removal of the storage lubricant and switching to winter(liquid lube) lubricant, kerosine could be used to liquify/wash off hard grease.
After using alcaline solvent or kerosine, all parts and mechanisms should be rubbed dry and thoroughly lubricated"
The rest of the stuff is useless to the discussion.
In real life this manual probably was more of a guideline than a rule,
I do not recall ever having to clean my AK-74 anymore than once after shooting.
Maybe 5.45 is not or less corrosive than 7.62, but I have never seen /heard anyone have any issues with corrosion in my Legion.
And I would agree with an earlier statement that as robust and reliable Russian weapons are, we used to have about 25% of small arms above the Legion's capacity, just in case.
So one could and was expected to continue to fight with what is available, whether weapon was re-issued one or collected in battle.
So, according to the manual, after the use of corrosive ammo, powder affected parts/mechanisms and the bore to be cleaned to spotless 4 days in the row,
then once every week.
For prolonged storage I use Fluid Film or Green Rust Check on the bore and gas tube.
If needed to be taken out of prolonged storage, lube can be removed with kerosine,
light lube should be applied.
Hope this helps,
Serguei
On the right page of that cleaning manual in Russian says:
".41 Cleaning and lubricating solutions for the carbine:
Alcaline solution to be used for cleaning of the barrel and all other parts that are exposed
to powder gases.
Lubrication to be performed right after cleaning with (hard)standard issue gun lube, temp>+5degC, (which is very similar to general purpose grease you could get here).
The lube to be upplied(sparringly) all through out the barrel, gas system parts and mechanisms that came in contact with burnt gun powder.
In temperatures between +5 and -50 degC [lubricating and cleaning] of the carbine should be performed with liquid lube(that stuff is a bit thicker than Hoppes, very similar to what one might find in small black container that comes with Norc M-14s)
Alcaline solution not to be used in the winter at all, just the liquid lube.
For storing the carbine for prolonged periods of time, 1:1 mix of cannon to gun grease to be used. (I have absolutely No idea what the cannon grease is)
For removal of the storage lubricant and switching to winter(liquid lube) lubricant, kerosine could be used to liquify/wash off hard grease.
After using alcaline solvent or kerosine, all parts and mechanisms should be rubbed dry and thoroughly lubricated"
The rest of the stuff is useless to the discussion.
In real life this manual probably was more of a guideline than a rule,
I do not recall ever having to clean my AK-74 anymore than once after shooting.
Maybe 5.45 is not or less corrosive than 7.62, but I have never seen /heard anyone have any issues with corrosion in my Legion.
And I would agree with an earlier statement that as robust and reliable Russian weapons are, we used to have about 25% of small arms above the Legion's capacity, just in case.
So one could and was expected to continue to fight with what is available, whether weapon was re-issued one or collected in battle.
So, according to the manual, after the use of corrosive ammo, powder affected parts/mechanisms and the bore to be cleaned to spotless 4 days in the row,
then once every week.
For prolonged storage I use Fluid Film or Green Rust Check on the bore and gas tube.
If needed to be taken out of prolonged storage, lube can be removed with kerosine,
light lube should be applied.
Hope this helps,
Serguei
- Location
- The Police State: Ontario
If a bore is not chrome lined, or made of stainless steel, it absolutely will still rust if simply covered in oil.
Remember salt is not soluable in oil. Water or water based cleaners are what you need.
