Corrosive cleaning methods

rimfire458

rimfire458

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So just got the csa 58 sporter and all CTC had was corrosive. Now I realize if it gets a 1000 rounds and sits a month we have a different animal. That being said for the frequent flyer as I am (AKA anal about gun cleaning) so doing it after 100 rounds. Why would a basic field stripping, then spraying surfaces with brake cleaner then WD not work? I guee what I'm saying is if You spray the brake cleaner till the parts shine and the stream coming off is clear to me that's that. Please comment. BTW.....GUYS BUY ONE OF THESE. I'm a hater of black ,but. I think this thing fires skittles
 
Brake cleaner?
When you get home use some hot water. Then clean as normal.
Doesn't take much to get rid of the corrosive salts.
Same with muzzle loaders.
 
The corrosive primer residue is potassium chloride, which is a polar substance. Nothing dissolves KCl like water, the most polar solvent of all (like dissolves like). Most brake cleaners are composed of ingredients that are fairly non-polar and therefore will not work.

Anything you use to clean after shooting corrosive ammo must contain water, be it Windex, Simple Green, plain boiling water, etc. 10% Ballistol in water is another option that will leave behind an oily film to inhibit corrosion.
 
If you fire one round of corrosive, you will have to clean the rifle. Give it a boiling water rinse - which dries very quickly and then simply clean as you normally would. Not rocket science and all the snake oil ideas are not necessary.
 
How did the armies of the world deal with corrosive ammo? I'm sure it was part of the training, but what did they use, especially in cold climates. I have a quart of US military bore cleaner that I use, but it doesn't list ingredients.
 
kawicrash said:
How did the armies of the world deal with corrosive ammo? I'm sure it was part of the training, but what did they use, especially in cold climates. I have a quart of US military bore cleaner that I use, but it doesn't list ingredients.
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Boiling water, which steams off the surface and dries almost instantly.

Flush the bore and gas system with boiling water. Same goes for the bolt/carrier.

Oil.

Done.

Don't make it f***ing complicated.
 
motor oil. that's it, that's all. Anyone who remembers high school chemistry wouldn't use water, even if its boiling and dries fast.
 
infidel29 said:
motor oil. that's it, that's all. Anyone who remembers high school chemistry wouldn't use water, even if its boiling and dries fast.
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From what I remember of High School Chemistry is, it takes a Polar Solvent to dissolve a Polar Compound.
Please enlighten me.


*Full Disclosure- I'm a Chemist...
 
Grelmar is right but you can add a few steps as I do (which add to the length of the cleaning session and much rejoicing in the garage).

Boiling water (with simple green) into aluminum turkey pan. Scrub with toothbrush to remove carbon fouling. Pour water down breech a couple of times. Rinse with clean water.

Parts over to air compressor and blow out excess water. G96 on everything and with Hoppes #9 for gas tubes, barrel and inside receiver as well as piston tips. Wipe down and shoot patches through barrel until clean.

Then lightly oiled rag over all the metal. Wipe off any excess, snap her together and your done.

That's how I like to do it.
 
hbean said:
Easy Peasy

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Yes Sir I did the water thing. When done I noticed a ring of carbon left in the pot. I took a hot water and dish soap rag and wiped it to little avail. Noticed some Thompson BP spray I had. Sprayed it at that carbon ring in pot and without a wipe or anything the black just washed down the side of the pot. To the poster who says "Whats it's value next to water?" I have a bigger question in my life. What's even a few minutes(Which this stuff saves in spades) worth? The $7 price of the whole bottle which will do 50+ cleanings in one single cleaning. I very happy. Even happier when I get this corr crap behind me. Through canada ammo I can burn non corr for the same price as local corr. That will really save me time, and. Actually that is the only real way to clean em is just don't dirty em
 
I won't shoot corrosive ammo period.

Has anyone done a price comparison? Can you buy bulk crap ammo for cheaper than you can reload? Regardless - that is the way I would go. Bulk corrosive ammo is cheap for a reason - you can tailor your own ammo, save money and get better results through reloading but that requires investment and a long term commitment to the sport.
 
One Lung Wonder said:
I won't shoot corrosive ammo period.

Has anyone done a price comparison? Can you buy bulk crap ammo for cheaper than you can reload? Regardless - that is the way I would go. Bulk corrosive ammo is cheap for a reason - you can tailor your own ammo, save money and get better results through reloading but that requires investment and a long term commitment to the sport.
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First, bulk ammo isn't cheap because its crap its cheap because its surplus.

Second, I doubt you can reload cheaper because on average I pay in the neighbourhood of .15 to .17 cents a round for my corrosive ammo.

Third, not everyone is into reloading and tailoring their ammo and a lot of surplus ammo is pretty good, especially the Czech stuff.

Finally, I don't care if its corrosive because I clean my rifles after each time I shoot, its a habit I don't plan to change any time soon and I've never had any rust or other issues

Buy cheap, stack deep
 
And, reload semi auto ammo? I wish I could load a magazine the stuff faster than I can shoot it.
Pet loads aren't on my radar when shooting 75 year old semi auto surplus.
 
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