Cost to blue a parkerized 870p?

going from park to polished blue is labour intensive. Wouldn't be cheap. You would be better off selling the parkerized gun and buying a nice blue Wingmaster.
 
Ah, just noticed you said matte blue. Just beadblast and dunk in the hot blue tank. Much cheaper than polishing.

I think park looks way better than blued blasted steel. Better corrosion protection with park too.
 
J.P. said:
going from park to polished blue is labour intensive. Wouldn't be cheap. You would be better off selling the parkerized gun and buying a nice blue Wingmaster.
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I agree. The parkerizing means it's etched. Someone would have to do a lot of polishing to make it look shiny. A Wingmaster already is nicely blued...

edit...see you said matt blue.

As was said, parkerizing is a much better, more corrosion resistent finish than matt blue. (like an Express)
 
cantom said:
I agree. The parkerizing means it's etched. Someone would have to do a lot of polishing to make it look shiny. A Wingmaster already is nicely blued...

edit...see you said matt blue.

As was said, parkerizing is a much better, more corrosion resistent finish than matt blue. (like an Express)
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but will it win the beauty contest? heheh ill prolly just leave it parked.
 
How durable is the parkerizing on the 870P (I have one but yet to take it out)
The glossy blued look is nice - I wonder how much a gunsmith would charge to make it shiny like the factory 870 Police bluing?
870P_blued03.jpg
 
mr00jimbo said:
How durable is the parkerizing on the 870P (I have one but yet to take it out)
The glossy blued look is nice - I wonder how much a gunsmith would charge to make it shiny like the factory 870 Police bluing?
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As with any Parkerizing, if its dry, it'll scuff up ridiculously easily and be prone to rust, if its kept lightly oiled, it'll hold up better, and if it has Cosmoline or some other thick grease baked into it, it'll be pretty darn scuff and extremely rust resistant.
 
870P said:
As with any Parkerizing, if its dry, it'll scuff up ridiculously easily and be prone to rust, if its kept lightly oiled, it'll hold up better, and if it has Cosmoline or some other thick grease baked into it, it'll be pretty darn scuff and extremely rust resistant.
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exactamundo.

I have a factory parked P and I also do my own parkerizing. When I do it, I can get a thicker layer of zinc on there but the factory job is just fine. I haven't felt the need to repark my P receiver even though it is pretty easy for me to do it.

After I parkerize something, I mix up some goop to soak into it. I take some thick grease, beezwax, and some kroil oil and melt it all together with a bit of solvent. slather that into the park and let it soak in for a day then wipe off the excess. You could also slather it in cosmo, but I find it stays sticky whereas my mix drys nice so your fingers don't feel tacky. I've never tried baking in cosmoline but I bet that would work well.

Think of parkerizing like a cast iron fry pan. It needs oil to soak into it and polymerize. Always clean it with more oil and wipe off the excess. Never degrease parkerizing with strong solvents, or if you do make sure it gets oil or grease rubbed back into it. It is a porous coating that becomes durable because of oily substances soaked into it.
 
J.P. said:
exactamundo.

I have a factory parked P and I also do my own parkerizing. When I do it, I can get a thicker layer of zinc on there but the factory job is just fine. I haven't felt the need to repark my P receiver even though it is pretty easy for me to do it.

After I parkerize something, I mix up some goop to soak into it. I take some thick grease, beezwax, and some kroil oil and melt it all together with a bit of solvent. slather that into the park and let it soak in for a day then wipe off the excess. You could also slather it in cosmo, but I find it stays sticky whereas my mix drys nice so your fingers don't feel tacky. I've never tried baking in cosmoline but I bet that would work well.

Think of parkerizing like a cast iron fry pan. It needs oil to soak into it and polymerize. Always clean it with more oil and wipe off the excess. Never degrease parkerizing with strong solvents, or if you do make sure it gets oil or grease rubbed back into it. It is a porous coating that becomes durable because of oily substances soaked into it.
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Baking in Cosmoline won't leave it sticky, I couldn't imagine the kind of mess it'd be if you tried to smear it on at a regular tempurature!

The thicker the grease, the better, as it will stay put even when the gun gets hot repeatedly.

I've never had a problem with exterior rust since properly treating the Parkerizing even though I live in a very rust friendly climate and take the gun with me salt water boating, in torrential downpours etc.

All that said, I prefer a polished blue, which not only looks nicer but makes for a smoother gun. Its also super easy to touch up cosmetically. When properly treated its probably equal in rust resistance to oiled Parkerizing, and if I wanted more rust resistance than that and had a gun that needed to be refinished, I'd probably get it Melonited.
 
Epps lists their services on their website. The asterisk is extra charge to remove pitting. You'll probably find comparable rates at other places.

Bluing

Matte/Bead Blast Finish:
$175*
Medium Polish Finish:
$225*
High Polish Finish:
$300*
 
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