Cost to cut and crown barrel? Recommended shop?

alpining

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Hi all - I've never had this sort of work done before, so I have no idea what costs I'm looking at.

If I wanted to get a barrel on a hunting rifle cut and crowned, how much should I budget?

Any recommendations on who to send it to? There are no smiths nearby, unfortunately. Or is it something I could get a machine shop to do?

Thanks!
 
For a machine shop to do it, you would have to have the barrel removed from the receiver as most machine shops are not licensed to work on firearms.

Depending the the make and model and the length you want to end up with, and how competent the smith is... it could be as little as $20 labour or possibly $60 depending on how it has to be done. I know on my lathe I can do a 20 inch barrel really easily...
 
For a machine shop to do it, you would have to have the barrel removed from the receiver as most machine shops are not licensed to work on firearms.

Depending the the make and model and the length you want to end up with, and how competent the smith is... it could be as little as $20 labour or possibly $60 depending on how it has to be done. I know on my lathe I can do a 20 inch barrel really easily...

head stock on my lathe must be similar in size, I can pass the barrel through the headstock and have the receiver sticking out the back end of the headstock.

doing barrels shorter then 20" requires a whole lot more setup.
 
head stock on my lathe must be similar in size, I can pass the barrel through the headstock and have the receiver sticking out the back end of the headstock.

doing barrels shorter then 20" requires a whole lot more setup.

It's probably a stupid question, but can this be done without removing the barrel from the receiver?
 
It's probably a stupid question, but can this be done without removing the barrel from the receiver?

It depends on the size of the hole through the head stock of the lathe plus the distance from in front of the chuck to the back of the head stock...

I can do it in my lathe if it is not any shorter than 20 inches or larger than 1.350"...
 
OP - Post #3 started you off on how it could be done, but is not how a "pro" would do it. Can hacksaw off your barrel where you want - as close to square as you can - then use Brownell piloted muzzle crown tool - hand turn - square off to dead flat and square to bore using correct fitting pilot - then use crowning tool to create the crown. No doubt these days that hand crowning tool and pilots from Brownells costs as much or more as what a "pro" would charge to do it on his lathe.

Using that piloted hand tool has illustrated a number of times how important it is to indicate off the bore - not off the outside of the barrel - amazing how often that hole is not dead centre within the round barrel!!!
 
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OP - depending how "red neck" that you want to go - late 1970's - I sawed 3" off a Rem 788 243 barrel - from 22" to 19". Fussed as best I could to get that cut-off to be square. Then had barrel, muzzle up, in vice and simply used a file - to file straight across flat - had a rod that would snuggly slide down on top of the rifling - would use a small precision square against that rod - to see where "square" to the bore centreline was. Was the first time that I discovered a rifle barrel's bore that was not centered within the barrel. I just filed it flat. It shot very well, after about third attempt to get it right.
 
OP - depending how "red neck" that you want to go - late 1970's - I sawed 3" off a Rem 788 243 barrel - from 22" to 19". Fussed as best I could to get that cut-off to be square. Then had barrel, muzzle up, in vice and simply used a file - to file straight across flat - had a rod that would snuggly slide down on top of the rifling - would use a small precision square against that rod - to see where "square" to the bore centreline was. Was the first time that I discovered a rifle barrel's bore that was not centered within the barrel. I just filed it flat. It shot very well, after about third attempt to get it right.
I’ve done similar with a hacksaw and countersink bit in a cordless. Shot 1 1/2” at 100 for 3 rnds with surplus iron sights.
 
It's probably a stupid question, but can this be done without removing the barrel from the receiver?

I spoke with an old armorer about "counterboring barrels"

He was a "field" armorer or tech in today's terms.

He told me they often had barrels come in that had muzzle issues, but nothing else wrong with them.

They did most of their work from the back of a truck, fitted out with a parts bin, tools and maybe, a small lathe and for sure a drill press.

He told me they had a clamp made up for the adjustable height plate for the drill press that would accept the barrel, after the barreled receiver was removed from the stock. They put the barrel muzzle through the plate and attached the clamp, then clamped it onto the plate.

The next step was to use an appropriate drill bit to cut a hole deep enough to clean up the problem.

He told me they usually went down a minimum of 3cm but sometimes as much as 5cm, depending on whether they had spare rifles on hand to issue.

He was German, I suspect the Soviets and other combatant amorers did similar things to keep the rifles in use.

Cutting off the barrel and refacing isn't the only way to cut a new crown.

There are other methods as well, but doing it properly on a lathe, is still the best way.
 
OP - Post #3 started you off on how it could be done, but is not how a "pro" would do it. ..................

Using that piloted hand tool has illustrated a number of times how important it is to indicate off the bore - not off the outside of the barrel - amazing how often that hole is not dead centre within the round barrel!!!

Yes it is amazing. Its also amazing how often the factory muzzle face is not perpendicular to the rifle bore. The other observation is that not all barrels will cut smoothly and cleanly with the 'manual' muzzle facing tool sold by Brownells. Some do .. some dont. A lathe is preferable. If you use the manual tool from Brownell and there are chatter marks you can use sand paper to address this .. as they have done here at the link (note this was for a pistol barrel) https://www.shootingtimes.com/editorial/cutting-crowning-a-barrel-with-hand-tools/99156
 
Another option for reducing chatter when using the Brownells' tool is to pack it with a cleaning patch. Make a small hole in the patch and run the pilot through it. Apply cutting oil and force the cutter to cut through the patch. This works with chambering reamers, too.
 
Another option for reducing chatter when using the Brownells' tool is to pack it with a cleaning patch. Make a small hole in the patch and run the pilot through it. Apply cutting oil and force the cutter to cut through the patch. This works with chambering reamers, too.

Excellent!! I did not know that --- thanks for that info.
 
Another option for reducing chatter when using the Brownells' tool is to pack it with a cleaning patch. Make a small hole in the patch and run the pilot through it. Apply cutting oil and force the cutter to cut through the patch. This works with chambering reamers, too.

Careful #### you're giving away ancient secrets..

I agree, that trick is really effective for large diameter chambers especially.
 
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