Coyotes Wolves and Small game

So should I find a tanner before I collect the hides? That's who would finish the process for me?
You can either find a trapper in your area who will take the whole animal but he won't pay much if anything for them. If you want to make money from them you must case skin, scrape, dry and then sell your hides at a fur auction. A lot of work for very little money, at least out here in BC. I blow big holes in them with my .243 with 87gr V-Max @3200 then drag them to my property and feed them to the ravens and vultures but that's just me. I have a friend in AB who sells the carcass to the Hutterites for $9 each and does make some money that way. You just have to figure out what your time and effort is worth to you.
Kim
 
You can either find a trapper in your area who will take the whole animal but he won't pay much if anything for them. If you want to make money from them you must case skin, scrape, dry and then sell your hides at a fur auction. A lot of work for very little money, at least out here in BC. I blow big holes in them with my .243 with 87gr V-Max @3200 then drag them to my property and feed them to the ravens and vultures but that's just me. I have a friend in AB who sells the carcass to the Hutterites for $9 each and does make some money that way. You just have to figure out what your time and effort is worth to you.
Kim

Thanks very much. I bumped into a guy here at the gun shop today who told me of a different fellow locally who will give me $10/per whole animal. That works for me since I mostly want to do straight pest control, but still don't want to waste anything if it can be salvaged. Unfortunately right now I only have two guns - a Remington 11-87 and an Anschutz CIL 190 - probably neither of those will be the best for coyotes, so it looks like I"m back to the EE for some searching. Thanks for the tips!!
 
Do you skin them in the field and leave the carcass or take them home and take the carcass to the dump?
Also any feelings on using compressed air to case strip them?
 
Thanks very much. I bumped into a guy here at the gun shop today who told me of a different fellow locally who will give me $10/per whole animal. That works for me since I mostly want to do straight pest control, but still don't want to waste anything if it can be salvaged. Unfortunately right now I only have two guns - a Remington 11-87 and an Anschutz CIL 190 - probably neither of those will be the best for coyotes, so it looks like I"m back to the EE for some searching. Thanks for the tips!!

in ontario you have to do something with the hide any way its the law
 
Do you skin them in the field and leave the carcass or take them home and take the carcass to the dump?
Also any feelings on using compressed air to case strip them?

Since it isn't most practical to clean skin a coyote (although some people likely do) they are rough skinned anyway: There is the advantage of skinning in the field, many trappers do because that reduces the amount of weight you must carry or pack on a machine. I've never skinned anything in the field, but most of my line was accessed by atv/snowmobile, however the snow has been very deep at times requiring me to walk the line in snowshoes: No matter how easily a beaver slides on the snow, they are still heavy animals to tow from your waist - Doing that for a few miles up and down hills makes for a good cardiovascular workout.

I'm not sure what you are trying to accomplish with compressed air? I've never tried skinning or the fleshing process with it, but if I was trapping much anymore I'd try that theory out with fleshing: My hypothesis is you would get a thorough makeover with coyote fat, flesh and grease. :popCorn:
 
Cabela's has the Axis package on for $390, scope included on a camo stock, in .223, .22-250 and .243. Check their Christmas catalogues/flyers too; I've seen Predator combos in there, not sure of the price. They'll get you started.

As for the .243, I've got one I'm rigging out specifically for predator hunting, but wasn't aware of the reputation for blowing big exit holes. Anyone here tried cast bullets, or something that doesn't penetrate so much? Just wondering.

Here is damage from my 243 with 58 grn V max at 3700 fps

58grnVmax023.jpg
 
I don't know about Ontario but in New-Brunswick a 22-250 is the biggest caliber you can use with a varmint license. I use a 22-250 , stevens 200 , great little rifle not expensif. I've been looking into getting something in .204 ruger lately though.
^Yuck! The idea of a 'varmint licence' and calibre limitations, so far has been kept east of the Quebec & Ontario borders.
Let's hope this infection stays within the maritime borders forever.
 
sksavenger try using 100 gr Sierras. I got a lot less damage, they shot .25MOA in my Sako Forester, and I used the same load for deer, coyotes, wolves....
Most larger holes were when the bullet stuck a rib and tore the skin. I would just sew the skin up after casing and cleaning then put it on the drying boards.

Another good coyote...
 
Some .204s have trouble with heavier bullets. It may have something to do with the rate of twist but my sako .204 shoots 32 gr Vmax more accurately than the heavier bullets limiting me to 32 grains. I have recently bought a sako 22-250 to reach out with a heavier bullet.
 
Some .204s have trouble with heavier bullets. It may have something to do with the rate of twist but my sako .204 shoots 32 gr Vmax more accurately than the heavier bullets limiting me to 32 grains.

Yes, the typical factory .204 rate of twist is 1 in 12, which is optimized for the lighter, varminting bullets (e.g. 32 gr) and tends to top out around 39 gr. (The 39 gr Sierra Blitz King will shoot very well in most any .204.) Some factory rifles will shoot the 40 gr bullets as well, even the 45 gr Hornady SP, but the field tends to drop off quickly. I have a 1 in 10 twist Pac-Nor that will shoot the 50 gr Bergers very well but also handles the usual 32 gr fare just as well. I am of the opinion that the chosen factory twist should have been in the 1 in 11 or 1 in 10 range.
 
Cabela's has the Axis package on for $390, scope included on a camo stock, in .223, .22-250 and .243. Check their Christmas catalogues/flyers too; I've seen Predator combos in there, not sure of the price. They'll get you started.

As for the .243, I've got one I'm rigging out specifically for predator hunting, but wasn't aware of the reputation for blowing big exit holes. Anyone here tried cast bullets, or something that doesn't penetrate so much? Just wondering.

I have never tried cast in a .243 as I think they are too fast even for gas check hard cast bullets at regular speeds. You could down load but that would be self defeating IMO. Just try Nosler partitions or some other really sturdy bullet and you should be fine. You want clean, total penetration not less penetration as that is what causes the damage, the bullet dumping its' energy in the body. I use 87gr V-Max because I want to blow them up;)
Kim
87gr V-Max
DSC01117.jpg
 
Those are some enlightening pics. I've been looking about at different factory loads and components... there's a lot out there. Looks like with a .243, a person is looking for either a small pill that fragments right away, or something that holds together and goes right through... Or maybe I should start shopping for a different caliber....
 
Those are some enlightening pics. I've been looking about at different factory loads and components... there's a lot out there. Looks like with a .243, a person is looking for either a small pill that fragments right away, or something that holds together and goes right through... Or maybe I should start shopping for a different caliber....
I think the solid heavy bullet is the way to go. I have shot them with Federal 80gr Powershok loads and they do way less damage. Not like a .223 or .204 but less:D. The small bullets that I have tried did even more damage than the 87grV-Max but my gun really doesn't like anything under 60gr. That coyote was at about 90yds and I hit him in the nearside shoulder so that is about as bad(good) as it gets but still the .243 is not noted for being a "fur friendly" round. If you can hit them in the ribs and stay away from the shoulders there is way less damage unless you use the V-Max's , they just blow them up real goodG:
Kim
 
Bullets in the mass category mentioned that destroy the pelt were designed for rapid expansion to literally "waste" small animals like groundhogs: To minimize pelt damage, would it be logical to use bullets made for big game animals that do expand (if legally required) but only expand to maybe twice their size and retain ALL of it's mass? Avoiding bone presents another issue though... intentionally shooting an animal in the gut would quickly make the "neutral" observer choose the side of the mindless "anti".

A thought that occured to me was the non-toxic indoor range alternatives like frangible rounds: I can only explain them as incredibly hard pack dust that when contacting backstop at the indoor range, they turn to dust. I know these are made in handgun calibers, but am unsure if they are available for small rifles and if so, would they actually work in humanely killing the animal, with one tiny entrance hole and dust from bullet reeking havoc in a coyote's boiler room?
 
I have never tried cast in a .243 as I think they are too fast even for gas check hard cast bullets at regular speeds. You could down load but that would be self defeating IMO. Just try Nosler partitions or some other really sturdy bullet and you should be fine. You want clean, total penetration not less penetration as that is what causes the damage, the bullet dumping its' energy in the body. I use 87gr V-Max because I want to blow them up;)
Kim
87gr V-Max

you have to use cast loads for cast bullets not jacketed loads cast loads tend to be slower

here in ontario leting the hide go to waste is breaking the law im pretty sure making such a large exit wound would render the fur unuseable
 
you have to use cast loads for cast bullets not jacketed loads cast loads tend to be slower

here in ontario leting the hide go to waste is breaking the law im pretty sure making such a large exit wound would render the fur unuseable
I know you have to use special loads for cast, usually much slower than jacketed loads and as such would make owning a hotrod LR caliber such as the .243 pretty moot. That was the point I was trying to make.
Kim
 
Avoiding bone presents another issue though... intentionally shooting an animal in the gut would quickly make the "neutral" observer choose the side of the mindless "anti".
I never said gut shoot them, I just said miss the shoulder bones. There's lots of lung behind the shoulder, just don't hit the shoulder. They are very thin skinned and if you hit one with a large game bullet it will probably not expand very much and will do as minimal damage as possible with that caliber. I have said before and I will say again, I am not a hide hunter, and I would never reccommend a .243 to someone who wanted to be one. I kill coyotes for one reason only and that is to protect my deer and I feel I am doing very well at that.
Kim
Part of my herd coming for a visit:
DSC01563-1.jpg
 
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