Cranked out some .22 rounds in the basement!! New Pic's added

elicitone

elicitone

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Now these weren't .22LR mind you... This is the old girl here..

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Started out as my cold cellar. I have since closed it off from the outside and removed all the old shelving.

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Then used the old shelves and some other leftovers to start the construction. Installed a couple of plug sockets wired it for a pair of pot lights and will be installing a small baseboard heater as well as venting it to rest of the basement for airflow.

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The wife has demanded the removal of the ugly Stack On cabinet from the closet so this will be the new home for my toys. Haven't decided on cabinets yet and will be setting it up for a possible vent to the outside to be installed at a later date. Have to keep the setup costs down to keep T.O.W.M.B.O. happy.

I will post some more pics as I get it done..
 
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Hummph! Must be a SMALL collection!

Seriously, I wish I could do that. Just don't have the space right now. Make sure you show us progression pics.
Tks in adv.
 
hamilton0729 said:
I'm jealous no room at my house for a whole room.
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Don't be jealous. This room has come at a great cost. Had to first build her a closet organizer in the master closet. Then build an entire new storage room in the basement for the stuff that was in the cold cellar. This meant another organizer. Then a full set of shelving in the furnace room for further storage before I was able to start this.

Tex Critter said:
Hummph! Must be a SMALL collection!


Seriously, I wish I could do that. Just don't have the space right now. Make sure you show us progression pics.
Tks in adv.
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Funny enough it is. And even though this is a small room 6x8'ish it is still way bigger than I need. Actually need it more for ammo at the moment. Have a few big honkin crates and then a stack of small ammo boxes plus a bunch of loose boxes.

diemaco said:
Don't you have to put something between the wood and the concrete to prevent it from rotting?
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Short answer yes. Long answer. Thought about that when I was most way done with the framing but then realizes that the wood that was in there has been there for 10 years and not even a hint of mold or rot. There has never been a hint of moisture inside it either since closing it off a few years ago. Lazy answer, I'm moving in the next 1-2 years so rot won't be an issue for me should something change. Lol
 
Looks like it will be a cozy place but better than nothing. Post some pics when you get done. If the wood rots from touching the concret you have a lot of moisture and better be looking to move or call Mike Holmes to renovate. :D
 
dead meat said:
Looks like it will be a cozy place but better than nothing. Post some pics when you get done. If the wood rots from touching the concret you have a lot of moisture and better be looking to move or call Mike Holmes to renovate. :D
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Yeh it will definitely be cozy. Unlike some other rooms I have seen on here. This one wont be anything crazy. It will be function over form. I will most likely just use some garage epoxy on the floor rather than try to level it. And then just some basic shelving and storage for guns and ammo.

I have a large 7x3 work bench in my attached garage for and maintenance that needs to be done so Dont even really need a counter in the room. It will essentially be a large walk in gun cabinet.
 
silverfoxdj said:
What are you planning for a door?
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There is currently a solid wood exterior grade door there now wich I plan on installing a pair of vents in, one high one low to aid in air circulation. Then I will probably have Metal Supermarket cut my a piece of sheet steel with hinge covers to attach to the face. I am not too worried though. The door is solid as it is. Its frame is set into concrete nad you have to get past two other locked doors just to get to this one. I think even without the steel it is well beyond what is required.

My friend is a property manager for a large company that owns numerous shopping plazas and is keeping his eyes open for a heavy duty steel door for me. I want one of the ribbed steel security doors, so I can fill it with concrete effectively making a vault style door. If he finds one and the price is right, (free) I will will use it..
 
Dehumidifier! The Cold Room is likely under your front porch - no insulation on 3 walls or the ceiling. Seal it completely and insulate
 
dmv said:
Dehumidifier! The Cold Room is likely under your front porch - no insulation on 3 walls or the ceiling. Seal it completely and insulate
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I am hoping to avoid the condensation problem by using the baseboard heater and venting the room into the finished area of the basement along with insulating it. I have a large humidifier that I used to run full time when I had the "small ocean" as my wife called it down there should I ever need it. But it is quite dry in my basement so I think just the insulation and air circulation will do the trick..
 
dmv said:
Dehumidifier! The Cold Room is likely under your front porch - no insulation on 3 walls or the ceiling. Seal it completely and insulate
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I agree. I would vapour barrier and tuck tape the hell out of that before you go any farther. Isolate it as much as you can.

Do it right, do it once.
 
SoBored said:
I agree. I would vapour barrier and tuck tape the hell out of that before you go any farther. Isolate it as much as you can.

Do it right, do it once.
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No fear. I just ran out of motivation the other day. It will be insulated and vapor barriered before drywall.
 
The reason the wood in the first picture did not rot was because it was open to the air. If you seal the new wood in with fiberglass and vapour barrier you'll be creating a bad situation for humidity coming through the concrete and being trapped in the fiberglass.

I ran into this when I removed a wall during my renovations in my new place. The big majority of the place is foam with wood strapping. The foam acts both as a vapour barrier and insulation at the same time. But the one wall that was done with fiberglass and plastic was a total loss. It had significant mold issues and the wood was stained with the first beginnings of rot. As a bonus the slightly "musty" smell I found when in that area went away within a few days of tearing it down and removing the debris.

So I hate to suggest this but the RIGHT way to do this would be to pull the wood off and first clad the walls with 1 inch blue or pink foam, seal the seams with vapour barrier tape (the red stuff) and then nail the strapping to the walls through the foam.

1 inch foam isn't the optimum insulation value but it's good enough if the concrete is below grade. And if the outside is exposed to the air you can boost the insulation value by using fiberglass between the foam and drywall.

If you're sitting there and shaking your head saying "NO WAY! ! !" then at least hedge your bets by buying some concrete sealer and coat the concrete with two or three coats. In particular flood the wood to concrete joints so it flows under and helps seal the concrete from the wood. That should do a lot towards forming a decent vapor barrier. Then you can go ahead with the fiberglass.

There's a pretty decent water based sealer you can find for $30 a gallon. And it's thin so a gallon is all you should need to do two or perhaps even three coats in this size of area.

And coat the floor while you're at it.
 
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