Creating a do it all 9.3x62

I have the following Leupold VX II and VX III scopes on a variety of rifles (levers and bolt actions) in medium and large calibers, that all work very well:
1.5-5x20
1.75-6x36
2-7x33
2.5-8x36 (one of which has the B&C reticle)
I also have a Swarovski Z3 3-9x36 on my Sako L691 carbine in 30-06
All of these scopes are reliable, light and rugged. And they have all worked very well in various terrain and environment types and light conditions.
I don't think you could go wrong with any one of these.
The Leupold rings and bases are metal, sturdy and easy to use. If you can find them, the QR and QRW rings and bases work very well too, and can be quickly detached to use your irons, if needed (which I have not had to do yet, in over 20 years of using them; and my rifles see lots of miles in transport and use, in vehicles, on atv's, on horseback, and hiking).
 
My Brno ZG-47 in 9.3X62 is currently set up with a Leupold Vari-X III 1.75-6eX32 scope in Alaska Arms quick detachable rings. The scope has a heavy duplex reticle that took a while to warm up to but now I’m used to it, I doubt I’d go back to a standard duplex. It is great in dim light in thick bush.



As a back-up to the scope, I carry a NECG ghost ring sight for use with a NECG CZ patridge front sight.




Nice!
I have the NECG sights as well for back up on my custom Ruger Model 77's in 376 Steyr and 416 Taylor. great, rugged sights. Have their banded front sights on both.
 
I know that there is the Weaver style. Mine are made specifically to mount to the integral Ruger Model 77 rear base. I would imagine that there are other models available as well. I have not looked.
 
I know that there is the Weaver style. Mine are made specifically to mount to the integral Ruger Model 77 rear base. I would imagine that there are other models available as well. I have not looked.

Hi Blackram, yes they look very similar, just the bottom section that joins the receiver / rail looks different to me. How do you find shooting the peeps on your Ruger? Mauser98, do you like the NEGC on your Brno?

Scrummy
 
I have the following Leupold VX II and VX III scopes on a variety of rifles (levers and bolt actions) in medium and large calibers, that all work very well:
1.5-5x20
1.75-6x36
2-7x33
2.5-8x36 (one of which has the B&C reticle)
I also have a Swarovski Z3 3-9x36 on my Sako L691 carbine in 30-06
All of these scopes are reliable, light and rugged. And they have all worked very well in various terrain and environment types and light conditions.
I don't think you could go wrong with any one of these.
The Leupold rings and bases are metal, sturdy and easy to use. If you can find them, the QR and QRW rings and bases work very well too, and can be quickly detached to use your irons, if needed (which I have not had to do yet, in over 20 years of using them; and my rifles see lots of miles in transport and use, in vehicles, on atv's, on horseback, and hiking).

Sorry for the barrage of questions Blackram, how would you say your list stacks up in terms of light transmission?
 
No worries. We only learn by asking the questions.
First, shooting the peeps on the Rugers is no problem at all. I do find the larger aperature easier to use in the brush and lower light conditions, as my eyes age. And yes, only the base differs to accomodate different mounting systems.
Second, light transmission on the scopes listed are good to excellent. While the older VX II (2-7x33) does not have as good of quality coatings on the lenses as the VX III's, today's VX 2 is yesterdays VX III, so are very good. All of these scopes light transmission capabilities lie in the mid 90's percentage wise (93-95% pretty much top performance available)
The biggest factor in scope brightness is exit pupil. Divide objective lense diameter by power rating setting and you will have exit pupil size.
i.e 20/5=4mm, 36/6=6mm, 36/9=4mm, etc.
The human eye's pupil can only dilate to 7mm in diameter under normal circumstances for a young adult. So a 36mm scope set at 5 power would provide you with an exit pupil of 7.2mm and provide more light than the eye can take in. As we age, our eye's pupil can only dilate to approx 5mm (approx 50 years of age), and less as we get even older, becuase the eyes pupil constrictors get tired and cannot fully open anymore. At that point, even if the exit pupil of a scope is 7mm, and the eye can only take in 4mm of exit pupil light, then that is as bright as one would be able to see.
So when I was younger, and my pupil could dilate to 7mm, I would set my 3.5-10x40 scope at almost 6 power (40/7=5.7) for low light shots across big fields to get as much light to my eye as possible. Now that I am 50, I would set that same scope, under the same conditions, to 8 power, as my pupil can only dilate to 5mm.

My mentor did a low light comparison test of a bunch of high end scopes several years ago (Swarovski, Zeiss, Leica, Kahles, Leupold, Nightforce, etc.), set to have the same exit pupil, to see which actually performed the best during low light conditions (first and last 15 minutes of legal shooting light). He found that the Swarovski, Zeiss, Leica and Leupold all performed very well and and at the same amount of light. He found the Kahles to resolve fine details clearer about 5 minutes ahead of the others. The Nightforce came in last place, and was over 5 minutes behind the Swarovski, Zeiss, Leica and Leupold.

Keep in mind, with the 9.3x62, for work in the dark timber, where short ranges are the rule, and not the exception, I will set my new-to-me Kahles 1-6x42 scope at the lowest possible setting so as to have a larger field of view to quickly track and find game in the scope at close distances. If I were to come across an animal at a further distance, say across a small meadow and in the timber on the far side, and I have time, then I would be able to crank the scope up to 6 power for more precise aiming through the brush. And while the scope would have a nice bright exit pupil of 7mm, my eye is only going to be allowing 5mm of light into my retina for brightness. And being a Kahles with Schott glass and an approx. 95% light transmission, I would expect to still see as well possible under legal light shooting conditions.
 
I have a 1.5-5x on my 9.3. The only issue that might come up is that the 20mm objective isn't the best for very low light conditions.

My logic was, that the rifle is intended to be used against large-ish targets at not-overly-long range, sot 5x at the top end is adequate. Plus, because of the way my scope is mounted I found I was better off with a straight tube.

The 1.5-5x Leupold, even at max power, will still give you a mm exit pupil which is pretty healthy. I've looked through mine in declining light in Africa (and anyone who has been knows how fast the light drops there). When it was black dark you could still see a lot through the scope at 1.5x and when there was still legal light there was no problem with it at 5x.

To the OP, Talley rings are outstanding. The lightweights, in particular, eliminate one point of failure by having one less mechanical connection than conventional ring/base combinations. I had them on a lightweight 30-06 and they performed extremely well. I wouldn't hesitate to use them again on any of my rifles.
 
To the OP, Talley rings are outstanding. The lightweights, in particular, eliminate one point of failure by having one less mechanical connection than conventional ring/base combinations. I had them on a lightweight 30-06 and they performed extremely well. I wouldn't hesitate to use them again on any of my rifles.
The only thing I don't like about the Talleys is that they don't offer a QD option, something that the lowly Weavers do.

Not a big deal for the most part, but if I was away from home I'd use Weaver mounts and take a spare scope for back-up.
 
After reading the OP message I would look at the ammo first. As an example if the barrel is 22" or 559 mm in length one must reconcile how a bullet will travel with a reduced velocity, because rifles like the Zastava (M-98) M-70 has a 22 inch barrel. Most tests on ammo is preformed on a 24" or 610 mm barrel. So lets say there is a reduction in velocity and energy when a 285 grain SP is fired from the 22" barrel. Lets estimate that we are losing 50 fps due to the loose of 2" on the barrel length. Lets look at a brand of 9.2 x 62 ammo that most have tried or used for target or hunting applications. If we select the Prvi Partizan and this is not a powerful load for the 9.3 x62. This table is from the PPU USA Ammo website. And there are some approximations suggested here to demonstrate a starting point. Also the actual Velocity of this factory load can be verified with appropriate testing apparatus.

TRZ load No. PP9362
Bullet Wgt./Style 285 SP
Ballistic Coefficient 0.332

Bullet Striking Velocity in FPS at Yardage Indicated - with a deduction due to a 22 barrel length, rather than a 24" barrel length.

Muzzle 2265 -50fps 2215
100 yards 2025 -50fps 1975
200 yards 1800 -50fps 1750
250 yards 1697.5 -50fps 1647.5 (approximate)
300 yards 1595 -50fps 1545

Bullet Striking Energy in ft-lbs at Yardage Indicated these numbers below will also decrease due to a 22' barrel

Muzzle 3252
100 yards 2597
200 yards 2052
300 yards 1610

Bullet Path Above / Below Sight Line the impact point will decrease also and without testing the ammo we have some degree of uncertainty as to the true impact point.

100 yard zero 0
200 yards -7.6 inches -1.0 inch -8.6 inches
300 yards -26.2 inches -3.8 inches -30.0 inches

Now in comparison we can examine the factory loading ammunition from Swift Dangerous Game A-Frame Heavy Rifle High Grade we are not told what length of barrel produced the following stats but we could assume that most companies use a 24 inch barrel - yet our rifle has a 22 inch barrel. So the numbers have to be reduced.

Muzzle Velocity 2396 Muzzle Energy 3645 Trajectory

100 yards 2178 3012 +2.93 inch
200 yards 1971 2468 0.00
250 yards 1873 2227 -4.71
300 yards 1778 2007 -11.90
400 yards 1598 1622 -34.85
500 yards 1435 1308 -71.46

* Keep in mind that these two ammunition companies are posting their factory load numbers. And the variation in velocity is PPU @ 2025fps (100yds) and Swift A-Frame @ 2178 (100yds). And this is with a 24 inch barrel.

So when choosing a scope one has to take into account how far one may expect to shoot. And what size/approximate weight is the animal. What would be your acceptable amount of energy be for the maximum yardage that one may shoot. And what is the acceptable amount of velocity for the maximum distance that one may shoot. And with the selected scope one must consider the amount of eye relief that is needed to prevent scope "bite". So it appears that the PPU ammo might be good out to at least 300 yards and the Swift A Frame ammo might be acceptable out to 400 yards. Unless one wants to create hotter hand loads (if it can be done safely). Even at 300 yards some decent glass may be a safe bet; and more so at 400 yards. In my experience a 3x9 power scope is quite adequate and one may reduce that magnification somewhat to a 2x8, 2x7 or 1.5 x 5 or 6, because all shooting could happen at closer ranges. In fact if possible it's better to be closer to the game as it's easier to judge or predict the drop of the bullet. A bigger bullet has more drop over distance. Where using a 300 WMag is less critical.
There are shooters here that have more experience with the 9.3x62 with a variety of bullets and powder charges. I've used the PPU on whitetail deer only out to about 100 yards and it does a stellar job of bringing them down quick. If hand loads were being used I'd probably settle on a 270 grain bullet. Hope this helps and I hope I didn't bore the more experienced shooters of the 9.3 x62 as my comments are intended for those who are just trying out this caliber.
 
Highwind, that's quite a piece of analysis.

For a lot of work, I suspect my load of 286gr RWS T-Mantel or Norma Oryx will do most things though I think in order to have a bit more MPBR for shooting across clearer areas I would be tempted to go for the Nosler Accubond 250gr
 
I have been looking at the Lapua ammunition with the 286gr Mega bullet. May get a couple of boxes to try in my rifle when it gets here. If it shoots decently, then buy some of the bullets to fine tune a load for my rifle.
That flat meplat looks like it could really transfer some energy upon impact of large, heavy game, such as the bison, elk, bear and moose that I plan on hunting with this rifle.
I also plan on trying the Nosler AccuBond in 250gr.

Has anyone tried this ammo?
On big game results?
 
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