Hi, I am a noob, and just got my .45 dies from ebay. I want to start reloading my brass. I've only ever reloaded 30-06. I shoot semi-auto handguns, one in 9mm, one in .45. I guess I need to crimp the bullets. In a 3 die set, is there a way you can crimp the bullets, or do I need to buy something else to do that? Is it a lot more work to reload handgun ammo than hunting ammo? thanks
Crimping question
- Thread starter boresnake
- Start date
Use a taper crimp only for either the 9mm or .45. No roll crimping for either. They both headspace on the case mouth.
If your die set doesn't have a taper crimp die, you'll need one. not terribly expensive. One of the dies will be stamped with 'Taper crimp' if there is one. I've always set the taper crimp die up as my bullet seater. Some people do it as another step though. Mind you, I don't bother crimping 9mm. The .45 likes it as a feeding aid. A lot of feeding issues go away with a taper crimp and it doesn't take much of a taper crimp to work.
"...more work to reload handgun ammo..." Kinda sorta, but not terribly more. The dies are set up the same way and you have to set up the expander to flare(AKA belling) the case mouth a bit to ease bullet insertion. Just enough belling to be able to sit the bullet in the case mouth and no more. You put the die in the press as per normal then adjust the expander rod. It's easier to do than to explain. Belling takes the place of chamfering the inside of the case mouth on your .30-06.
Case length is important with pistol cases, but they don't stretch much so you're not trimming often. Read the handgun loading how-to in your manual and you should be fine.
4.5 grains of Bullseye with a cast 230 grain bullet(flat points work well, but RN's will too. An FP is an RN with the point gone and the edges rounded.) and regular large pistol primers is a good target load for the .45.
If your die set doesn't have a taper crimp die, you'll need one. not terribly expensive. One of the dies will be stamped with 'Taper crimp' if there is one. I've always set the taper crimp die up as my bullet seater. Some people do it as another step though. Mind you, I don't bother crimping 9mm. The .45 likes it as a feeding aid. A lot of feeding issues go away with a taper crimp and it doesn't take much of a taper crimp to work.
"...more work to reload handgun ammo..." Kinda sorta, but not terribly more. The dies are set up the same way and you have to set up the expander to flare(AKA belling) the case mouth a bit to ease bullet insertion. Just enough belling to be able to sit the bullet in the case mouth and no more. You put the die in the press as per normal then adjust the expander rod. It's easier to do than to explain. Belling takes the place of chamfering the inside of the case mouth on your .30-06.
Case length is important with pistol cases, but they don't stretch much so you're not trimming often. Read the handgun loading how-to in your manual and you should be fine.
4.5 grains of Bullseye with a cast 230 grain bullet(flat points work well, but RN's will too. An FP is an RN with the point gone and the edges rounded.) and regular large pistol primers is a good target load for the .45.
sunray said:
I agree with Sunray 100 percent, many many years ago when I first started reloading 45 ACP I had problems with my reloads then I got a taper crimp die and have not had a problem since. The case crimp diameter I use I got out of a book by Bill Wilson, it should be 0.469" at the case mouth.
I was wondering this as well. I'm using a Dillon SDB for 9mm and 45...the 4th stage is to crimp and from what I hear, this is only to take the "bell" off the case and be just tight enough to hold the bullet in place. I'm still a bit concerned about applying too much pressure...if that's even possible.
scottshotz said:
For 9 and 45, taking the bell out + a little more is all you need. you certainly can apply 'too much pressure' - if the finished round is squeezed down too much at the mouth it will go too deeply into the chamber, or the case will just collapse in the die.
sunray, thanks for the great post! very informative
yes, you do need separate crimp dies for each caliber i just found out. My die sets are rcbs for both .45 and 9mm. Do the rcbs 3 piece dies taper crimp or no? I haven't had a chance to start reloading handgun because I'm having problems getting powder and bullets locally.
Is unique a good powder for both calibers? my speer reloading manual uses unique for every bullet they make, for each caliber. I'm trying to keep my life simple by using one powder for both calibers, if possible
yes, you do need separate crimp dies for each caliber i just found out. My die sets are rcbs for both .45 and 9mm. Do the rcbs 3 piece dies taper crimp or no? I haven't had a chance to start reloading handgun because I'm having problems getting powder and bullets locally.
Is unique a good powder for both calibers? my speer reloading manual uses unique for every bullet they make, for each caliber. I'm trying to keep my life simple by using one powder for both calibers, if possible
RCBS dies allow you to both taper and roll crimp, it's just a matter of adjusting the dies. The instructions that come with the dies explain how to adjust them for each type of crimp. If your dies are missing the instructions, contact RCBS, or they might even have some information at their website.
"...Is unique a good powder for both calibers..." It'll do nicely. I don't use it myself, but it's a well known pistol cartridge powder.
RCBS has an on-line how-to on their site. Add the W's and click on Reloading Guide. .rcbs.com/
Current RCBS .45 ACP dies come with the taper crimp die only. They do not allow roll and taper crimping in the same die. Never did either. Roll crimping has never been used with cartridges that headspace on the case mouth.
RCBS has an on-line how-to on their site. Add the W's and click on Reloading Guide. .rcbs.com/
Current RCBS .45 ACP dies come with the taper crimp die only. They do not allow roll and taper crimping in the same die. Never did either. Roll crimping has never been used with cartridges that headspace on the case mouth.
Lee pistol dies have a built-in crimp feature. You should get an instruction sheet with them. If not, call Lee and have them mail one to you. You only need a separate crimp die if you like the greater accuracy that a separate crimp may bring.
boresnake said:
Are the Lee's a 3 die or 4 die set? Their 4 die sets include the Factory Crimp Die.
As mentioned in above posts, you can chose to not use a separate taper crimp die. But a separate taper crimp die is the way to go, especially if you have (or are getting) a progressive loader. The Lee FCD also post sizes the case to make sure it will chamber.
You would need a carbide taper crimp die for each caliber. Dies for straight wall cases are about $20 and a few dollars more for 9mm because it has a tapered case.
Here is an interesting article on the Lee Factory crimp die:
http://www.mountainmolds.com/test_lee_crimp.htm
http://www.mountainmolds.com/test_lee_crimp.htm
Hey, brought this one back up, just to add an extra question. I've just loaded up some 45acp for my glock 21. I haven't taper crimped them, but they seem to chamber and cycle through the gun fine. I haven't fired them yet, just ran a couple magazines through. Should I still taper crimp them even though they seem to feed quite well? If people think I should, I will, but I already crushed one casing today, and if I can avoid it, it's one less step right?
I'm thinking what I might do is crimp some, and not crimp some others, then go to the range and see what works best. Good Idea or bad idea????
I'm thinking what I might do is crimp some, and not crimp some others, then go to the range and see what works best. Good Idea or bad idea????
stickhunter
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The taper crimp addresses two issues for 9mm/45a
1) Sets the headspace since these headspace off the cartridge mouth
2) Secures the bullets in the magazine during recoil of the gun
I'd suspect that omitting the taper crimp could reduce headspace, but since your rounds are chambering, this doesn't appear to be an issue, so you should be fine with respect to #1.
For #2, it'd depend on how strong your loads are. You might want to check your neck tension by pressing the nose of a loaded cartridge on a table and see if you're able to push the the bullet back into the case (use calipers to check). If not, you should be OK with respect to #2.
Take my thoughts with a grain of salt as I don't currently shoot any taper crimped rounds... just my ideas.
1) Sets the headspace since these headspace off the cartridge mouth
2) Secures the bullets in the magazine during recoil of the gun
I'd suspect that omitting the taper crimp could reduce headspace, but since your rounds are chambering, this doesn't appear to be an issue, so you should be fine with respect to #1.
For #2, it'd depend on how strong your loads are. You might want to check your neck tension by pressing the nose of a loaded cartridge on a table and see if you're able to push the the bullet back into the case (use calipers to check). If not, you should be OK with respect to #2.
Take my thoughts with a grain of salt as I don't currently shoot any taper crimped rounds... just my ideas.
The taper crimp addresses two issues for 9mm/45a
1) Sets the headspace since these headspace off the cartridge mouth
2) Secures the bullets in the magazine during recoil of the gun
I'd suspect that omitting the taper crimp could reduce headspace, but since your rounds are chambering, this doesn't appear to be an issue, so you should be fine with respect to #1.
For #2, it'd depend on how strong your loads are. You might want to check your neck tension by pressing the nose of a loaded cartridge on a table and see if you're able to push the the bullet back into the case (use calipers to check). If not, you should be OK with respect to #2.
Take my thoughts with a grain of salt as I don't currently shoot any taper crimped rounds... just my ideas.
Right now I'm just using the starting load, 5.4 gr unique behind a 230 gr gold dot hp, so I don't think recoil will be excessive. I'm thinking I'll just do half crimped and half not, then see what works best. The rounds seem to be pretty solid, I can't push the bullet in or out with just my fingers. I just wish I had more time to get to the range, as it stands I'll be lucky if I get to go out on thursday next week to try out my first creations.
