Crimping?

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I just started reloading ( mostly 9mm and 45 ACP) and I just really followed my reloading book for direction (hornady 7th edition) and it gave me a good enough idea to put some rounds together. Its talks about crimping in the bullet seating process but it does not really say how to do it. I do have the hornady pistol dies that include the crimping feature but the directions on the die instructions don't really do it for me. Can some one tell me why, how and if I even need to crimp?
 
I just started loading pistol ammo too. The advice I have been given is to crimp just enough to take the 'flare' or 'bell' out of the case mouth for reliable feeding.
 
Hi. A taper crimp on a .45 can aid feeding. Sometimes it's the only fix needed. Keeps the bullet from moving under recoil. Not always needed for a 9mm.
You set up the die as per normal, then turn it in until you get a wee bit of taper crimp. There's no actual measurement, but you'll be able to see the taper. Like AB.boy says, just enough to take out the flare. It's easier to do than describe.
 
Figure on crimping to a case mouth diameter of .469-.471 for .45 and .375-.378 for 9mm; not much more than enough to remove the case flare.
 
When I started reloading I just got a Lee Factory Crimp die for all my pistol calibers, I apply a very light crimp, and it takes the guessing out. I know many people say FCD isn't neccessary, but it works for me, and it is one less thing to think about.
 
Both 9mm and .45ACP headspace on the case mouth, so don't put a big crimp on them or it will affect headspace (and not in a positive way). As mentioned, just put a slight taper crimp on them to straighten the case mouth out and no more.

Revolver cartridges are different, I roll crimp my .44 Mag to keep the bullets seated under recoil and the Lee factory crimp die works superbly for that.

Mark
 
When setting up your dies, use a caliper. Measure and measure again, both crimp and length of your cartridge. To measure crimp, use the caliper blades on the very edge of the casing's mouth just where the bullet sticks out. The length of your cartridge is dependent on the type of bullet you have in there, but your manual should have the specs for what you're shooting.

I'd also suggest removing your barrel(s) and trying out your rounds for fit in their chambers when setting your dies. Check this as a guide:

45seatingpossibilitiesxth2.jpg
 
Revolver cartridges are different, I roll crimp my .44 Mag to keep the bullets seated under recoil and the Lee factory crimp die works superbly for that.

Mark
Isn't the Lee FCD a taper crimp die? I'm sure it still does the job but I roll crimp my heavy revolver loads with the seating die.
 
Roll crimping creates a much sharper crimp angle and is generally harder on brass than taper cimping.

Other considerations are that a (light) taper crimp can be added to a non-cannelured bullet without damaging the copper jacket, which is why some handloaders add a bit of a taper crimp to their pistol loads as a finishing touch. However, attempting to roll-crimp a case on a non-cannelured bullet might cause the brass to buckle and the jacket to crack. I use a heavy roll crimp to clamp down my cannelured .44cal and .357cal revolver bullets.
 
The difference between a roll crimp and a taper crimp is just that. A roll crimp rolls the end of the case inward into a cannelure or groove in the bullet. It is formed by forcing the case with bullet seated, up into a die which has an inward curving radius that literally rolls the brass, leaving an outside radiused curve on the case mouth. Look at a factory revolver round under a ten power glass.

A taper crimp is formed by forcing the case with seated bullet into a gently inward tapering die, which progressivley straightens out the mouth belling necessary for seating bullets, and then, as the crimp increases (and mouth diameter decreases) the case mouth is forced laterally into the side of the bullet. Too aggressive a crimp will in fact, weaken or sever the bullet jacket.

What to use? For revolvers, a roll crimp provides consistent bullet pull, and in moderate to heavy recoil, the roll crimp prevents the bullets of rounds in the cylinder awaiting their turn from being pulled through inertia. For most semi's - 9mm and .40, and .45ACP among others - a taper crimp allows the case mouth to come to rest at the abrupt end of the chamber, thereby preventing the cartridge from entering the leade, and causing excess pressure. Insufficient taper crimp impairs cycling, too much allows the case to slip past the chamber's end, neither are good. Most manuals have a diameter showing the ideal outside dimension of the loaded case, at the mouth. It is a good place to start.
 
.004" = light taper crimp; bullet dia + average brass thickness [x2] - .004 , eg .356+.011 +.011-.004= .374 @ the very top of the brass, this system works on all mouth headspacing rds , a little more might be ok for IPSC where feed problems are a killer , but generally speaking .004 is the #
 
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