criticise my reloading technique please

herbeapuce

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New to reloading…

tikka 25-06 varmint Bolt.


I am using once fired Rem cases. ( edited: fired from my rifle )

I put every cases in my wilson case gage , they are all still perfect . no need FL die or trim ...

I then put one case in the press with the neck sizing die

I give it just enough work to have a slight pressure again my hornady117g btsp

Slight pressure so the bullet can move in easily when I cycle the round in the chamber to determine the overall lenght from bolt to rifling

I close the bolt on that round

I measure that round.

I set my seating die to .010 shorter

powder website says for my 25-06 , hornady 117 with H-4831 is good from 48 g to 52 g….

I load 6 rounds with 48g

I load 6 round with 50g

I load 6 rounds with 52g


How I am doing ? is it good ? is it bad ? what did I forget ?
is this a good way to work a load ?

Over all lenght comments ?

Thank you for the help

Stef
 
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Go up in .5 gr increments. I take it you are loading 6 rounds, so you can shoot two, 3 round groups? 5 Shot groups are a little better and 10 round groups might fill in all the holes in the group to give you a better indication on how well the load it doing.
 
If you are using once fired brass that was not fired in your rifle, I would FL resize. Once it has been fired from your rifle, a neck sizing die will be fine.
I'm by no means an expert, but this is my understanding of what should be done.
Having said that, if it went into your chamber fine, you should not have any problems.
Chambering an empty round to establish distance to lands will certainly go along way to developing an accurate round for that rifle.
I go 5 shots at .2 gr intervals....Don't stop when you hit the first sweet load, you will like find that the group will widen again, but will tighten up again. Then decide which gave you tighter groups.(ex. you may find tight groups with 49.4 and again at 51.6 gr)
Hope this helps and again, I still have a lot to learn, but this is what I have read on a few occasion and it was proven at the range.
 
If you are using once fired brass that was not fired in your rifle, I would FL resize. Once it has been fired from your rifle, a neck sizing die will be fine.

thanks you for you help. I edited my post and yes they were fired from my rifle.

thanks again.

everyone, Please also comment on the OAL ? what is the best distance usually ? (0.0xx )

stef
 
I usually start at .015" off the lands, [magazine length permitting]
Then work in or out by .005" intervals to fine tune it.
No need to go up in .2 gr increments. .5 grain intervals will tell you all you need to know.
After you have found the area that seems to shoot best, you can reduce the incremental change, again to fine tune.
Remember, one change at a time. Don't change charge and seating depth at the same time, 'cause you won't know which change is responsible for a good [or bad] load.
Regards, Eagleye.
 
thank you

I am wondering if the method I use for measuring the max OAL by closing the bolt on a bullet is just as accurate as those jigs they sell ( Hornady Lock-N-Load Overall Length Gage Bolt Action ) , or should I invest in a jig ?

Long time reloaders...what do you think please ?

it's a good feeling knowing you are doing everything you can to get good ammo, but it's also fun to save a bit of money sometimes....

thanks again.
stef.
 
Stef; I have the gauge [It was Stoney Point before Hornady bought the rights]
I also have the drill and tap to make my own special cases for the tool.
But there are several ways to find the beginning of the lands.
Most do not involve any special tools at all.
If you are careful, you can get a very accurate reading so as to adjust your bullet seating properly.
Regards, Eagleye.
 
No need to go up in .2 gr increments. .5 grain intervals will tell you all you need to know.
After you have found the area that seems to shoot best, you can reduce the incremental change, again to fine tune.

I'm sure that would work just as well..you're right. Certainly would take less bullets and would be easier on the shoulder at least with the larger calibers.



I haven't tried any tools for finding best OAL...I use the same method as the OP
On the upside, it takes lots of shooting to get accurate....it's a win/win
 
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But there are several ways to find the beginning of the lands.

thanks again Eagleye

I am aware of the cleaning rod method, and the one method I just described.

why I picked that one?....I imagine if I am careful at making sure I give the right amount of pressure to the neck of the case so that the bullet can easily move back but also staying in that place when removed, then It should be exact...,
Seems to have less steps involved than the cleaning rod method..

Regards
stef
 
thanks you for you help. I edited my post and yes they were fired from my rifle.

thanks again.

everyone, Please also comment on the OAL ? what is the best distance usually ? (0.0xx )

stef

It's all about pressure and powder. I forget which now, but one of my manuals spec'd that 0.030" was the backoff point from the bullet touching the rifling to final seating depth. Also, if your Tikka uses a mag, then you will have to seat it deeper as you will have feeding issues if the OAL is too tight in the magazine.

Trimming your case to a constant dimension will also improve groups as well as crimp/no crimp.
 
Also, if your Tikka uses a mag, then you will have to seat it deeper as you will have feeding issues if the OAL is too tight in the magazine.

Thanks sobo4303

will check that but I know the mag can hold ammo that are touching the rifling....but I have not tried to cycle them. hope I am lucky for this..
stef.
 
Bare in mind, that the load data you are using lists the OAL you should be seating to get their results. Going longer then the data will reduce pressures and velocity.
This doesn't matter in practice as it all comes down to results. Just something to keep in mind.

On the other hand, do not go less then the recommended OAL with that data.

A long OAL and a short jump does not always equate to better accuracy. There have been cases where I've gotten a more accurate round with a shorter OAL then I could have used.

The efficiency of the powder combustion is also a factor for accuracy. IF you increase your OAL, you also increase your powder capacity, which means the powder can burn just slightly less efficient, and it does not fill the case as much.

Some slower burning target powders could see a considerable reduction in pressure from an extended OAL, which you inevitably compensate for by making a hotter load. IF the load is too hot you could overspin your bullet and loose up the groups by the time you get a consistent powder burn the gives consistent results (even if not the best results).

Also, if you don't get your powder burning efficiently, you can foul your barrel faster loosing accuracy as you shoot. This is usually not a problem unless you've made a bad powder choice.

There have been cases where while working up a load, if I decided I wanted a touch more velocity, I could back off the OAL a bit instead of adding more powder, and bam, it's right where I want it.

Again, I'll point out that it all comes down to results, so whatever works for you.
I almost want to say, there is no right way to work up a load. There are very different ways to approach it.

I myself "engineer" my loads. I use a computer program and crunch numbers based on projected sweet spots based on chrony data. On numerous occasions, I've managed to expedite past the conventional process and gotten myself right to shooting tight groups, and could just tune it up a bit from there if I saw room for improvement.
 
:)

Going longer then the data will reduce pressures and velocity.
I wasn't aware of that. Thanks for telling me.


I use a computer program and crunch numbers based on projected sweet spots based on chrony data.
if you find some time, can you elaborate on the theory behind your sweet spot based on chrono data please ?

Thank you very much for your time and knowledge.
stef.
 
Going longer then the data will reduce pressures and velocity.

A long OAL and a short jump does not always equate to better accuracy. There have been cases where I've gotten a more accurate round with a shorter OAL then I could have used.

The efficiency of the powder combustion is also a factor for accuracy. IF you increase your OAL, you also increase your powder capacity, which means the powder can burn just slightly less efficient, and it does not fill the case as much.

IF the load is too hot you could overspin your bullet and loose up the groups by the time you get a consistent powder burn the gives consistent results (even if not the best results).


There have been cases where while working up a load, if I decided I wanted a touch more velocity, I could back off the OAL a bit instead of adding more powder, and bam, it's right where I want it.

I myself "engineer" my loads. I use a computer program and crunch numbers based on projected sweet spots based on chrony data. On numerous occasions, I've managed to expedite past the conventional process and gotten myself right to shooting tight groups, and could just tune it up a bit from there if I saw room for improvement.


Have you ever loaded a round for shooting anything past 25 yards?

The closer the bullet is to the lands the more pressure it will create. More pressure usually means faster velocities, however it is a moot amount. ie seating a bullet .020"-.050 deeper will not increase velocities 50 fps.

Seating depths will change accuracy but it depends more on the bullet and what the rifle likes. Some bullets like the Sierra SMK are very intolerant to jump. Some rifle/bullet combos may like the bullet jammed into the lands. While the same rifle will like another bullet of the same weight to have .040-.050 jump with the same load.

I do not believe that by loading hot, you can over spin a bullet provided you are using the proper weight bullet for the twist rate in your barrel and the proper powder. You will get to a point were you will not get any more velocity as unburnt powder will blow out the end of the barrel.

Forget the self engineered load data. Finding the sweet spot with your loads is done at the range, not at a keyboard.
 
I was just accommodating him. If he had asked for constructive criticism my reply wouldn't have been what it was.
 
Have you ever loaded a round for shooting anything past 25 yards?

. . . of course. I usually shoot 100y.

The closer the bullet is to the lands the more pressure it will create. More pressure usually means faster velocities, however it is a moot amount. ie seating a bullet .020"-.050 deeper will not increase velocities 50 fps.

I could be wrong, I'm going to look into that one further, but as it is right now, I have quite a bit of Chrony and load data backing up my claim.
Last time I did the experiment :

223;80g A-Max;21g3031;
2.5" = 2440.8fps
2.45"=2495fps.

That's based on a 5 shot average.

I'm going to try it again tomorrow, I'm working up some loads with this new CFE223 powder I've been wanting to try.
Just made 5 rounds each, 23g@ 2.275" and 2.5" w/75g BTHP.
I'll let you know how that goes.

Seating depths will change accuracy but it depends more on the bullet and what the rifle likes. Some bullets like the Sierra SMK are very intolerant to jump. Some rifle/bullet combos may like the bullet jammed into the lands. While the same rifle will like another bullet of the same weight to have .040-.050 jump with the same load.

Pretty much what I was trying to sum up with: "A long OAL and a short jump does not always equate to better accuracy" as I got the impression that the OP believes that the longer the better. So, yeah, I agree entirely.

I do not believe that by loading hot, you can over spin a bullet provided you are using the proper weight bullet for the twist rate in your barrel and the proper powder. You will get to a point were you will not get any more velocity as unburnt powder will blow out the end of the barrel.

I was referring specifically to cases where someone would be using a much slower burning with a long OAL and by time they got the case filled to the point of consistent combustion they are pushing the bullet faster then they should be. Perhaps I could of been more specific, but I was jsut kind of hammering out some coles notes for the OP to think about.

Forget the self engineered load data. Finding the sweet spot with your loads is done at the range, not at a keyboard.

Can't argue with range results, but, being over a decade into the 21st century, we now have computer software that can accurately predict the performance of a round before we've even made it.

I know this for a fact for sure, and it does work. 30 mins at the keyboard can save me hours of range work, and I can get right to shooting groups.

Of course you can't have one without the other, there is still quite of bit of range work involved, and you pretty much have to kick it oldschool starting from scratch with a new to you rifle.

After playing around with different loads in the same rifle, you can compile quite a bit of data, and once you've found the sweet spot for one load, you can use that data and compute where the sweet spot might be for another load with a different powder or bullet. It can greatly speed up the "work up" processes as you can skip the graduated loading and go right to fine tuning.

For instance, I have chony data that tells me where the sweet spot is for the 80g A-Max bullet in my rifle. And since determined that 2.5" was my ideal OAL via that experiment I mentioned.

But I wanted to optimize my powder burn.
So, at the keyboard, I was able to determine that IMR 3031 was the best powder for my application, and that 21g of said powder would put me in the sweet area with something like 100% case fill and 99.9x% powder burn.

I loaded it up and sure enough, I shot a 0.203 and 0.503.
I chrony'd the load and saw that I was jsut a few FPS short of where I wanted to be. So I fine tuned the load to 21.3g and sure enough, I shot a 0.171 and 0.274. I was able to tighten it up and get more consistency with just 2 attempts.

This is what I'm talking about, to answer the OP's follow up question.

My gun is a Tikka T3 lite, 223 w/Minox 4-20x50. And these groups were shot prone with a bi-pod. I'd probably get a one hole if I did benchrest.
 
New to reloading…

tikka 25-06 varmint Bolt.


I am using once fired Rem cases. ( edited: fired from my rifle )

I put every cases in my wilson case gage , they are all still perfect . no need FL die or trim ...

I then put one case in the press with the neck sizing die

I give it just enough work to have a slight pressure again my hornady117g btsp

Slight pressure so the bullet can move in easily when I cycle the round in the chamber to determine the overall lenght from bolt to rifling

I close the bolt on that round

I measure that round.

I set my seating die to .010 shorter

powder website says for my 25-06 , hornady 117 with H-4831 is good from 48 g to 52 g….

I load 6 rounds with 48g

I load 6 round with 50g

I load 6 rounds with 52g


How I am doing ? is it good ? is it bad ? what did I forget ?
is this a good way to work a load ?

Over all lenght comments ?

Thank you for the help

Stef
Check your case lengh in the case guage after you have sized them and not before. If you ever full lengh size it will change the length.

When you are finding your max COAL use several bullets. If you are measuring from the points you will get inconsistand lengths and by using several different bullets you will get an average. I ussually use about 4 different bullets.

As others have said work up by .5 gr.

It helps if you tell us what you are using the loads for. Hunting? I ussualy try and get at least a 1" group with my hunting loads and try and get the most velocity I can. My varmit loads I try and get a bit tighter than my big game loads. An 1 1/2" load is good enough for hunting moose/elk!

Hope this helps. George
 
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