Crossbolts,rings & triggers-Brno rifles. Snow blowers SPF

Noel

Noel

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Hi Gents!

I have a stock that I would like to put some crossbolts in with the classic two hole blanked off head. I would like to have them ground to match the contour of the rifle stock, not recessed.

What would be a reasonable price to pay to get this done as well as getting the action glass bedded?

I was quoted $200 but that was for the recessed heads, not a flush up job which would be extra. This is for beefing up the stock to save it from cracking under recoil. And at the same time it has to be esthetically pleasing to the eye. Moreso than my spelling is.:rolleyes:

Thanks for your help!

Noel
 
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You quote isn't out of line. It is a hell of a job to do well.

Personally I wouldn't even consider doing it to a rifle of mine. I much prefer the hidden "crossbolt" and with bedding I think it is stonger in the long run. Stock refinishing down the road is easier too. No down sides that I am aware of.
 
Here's a drawing showing internal cross-bolts. I've used this method of stock reinfocing on a numner of stocks. It is quick and easy when done with normal glass bedding.

lott06picture.jpg
 
44Bore and Guntech, I like the way you guys think!

The thought never really hit me to just use the hidden bolts. It is a nice rifle but I think the exposed crossbolts will take away from it's looks. The Smithy I talked to only mentioned using exposed bolts, I think that is all he carries but I will check back with him.

Mauser98, thanks for the detailed sketch! I have fixed a couple cracks before but this stock will be very hard to come by should I try to fix it myself, $200 seems like cheap insurance to me! I will keep this in mind the next time I need to fix a milder recoiling rifle.

Thanks alot guys! A great help as always!;) :cool:

Noel
 
Weatherby Mark V wood stocks all have an internal crossbolt right from the factory.

As shown in the pictures above, you simply make a slot behind the recoil lug area that goes across from one side to the other and you can simply drop a couple of wood screws in it and pour in the epoxy and glass bed the action on top of it. The thread on the screws and the epoxy lock it all together when the epoxy cures. If you dont remove wood at the top of the stock line you won't even know it has been done and the stock will be very strong.
 
Here's the way I fix them if they have cracked behind the recoil lug and need repair. Work wood glue all the way through the crack. Then mill/dremel a nice clean channel(dogbone shape) parallel to the recoil lug mortise. Use the proper size chunk of ready rod with a nut on each end.(bowtie bolt) Set it in the channel and gently tighten the nuts to hold the crack tightly together. Then fill the channel to the top with Acraglass covering the ready rod. Tough as nails and neat. Actually a lot stronger than the original stock before it cracked. If you are a Husqvarna guy like me, this is one trick you need to know!!! Hope this helps.
 
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Indeed a Husqvarna man am I! Thanks for offering that tidbit. One day all of this will come in very handy I am sure.

I am sending the rifle in to ABTR tomorrow and Rick will let me know what is the best route to take from there.

Cheers Guys!

Noel
 
Hi Noel...while your 9.3 @ Rick's have him do a cerrosafe cast of your chamber/throat/and first bit of bore......with throat dia. and lenght and groove dia. measurement known you can size your bullet to fit to perfection....saves alot of time in developing good cast loads......:) got my CZ 9.3X62 from Rick.....:D
 
I just ordered a B-Square jig for drilling the stock to install the cross-bolts. I'm more concerned with function then appearance. Call me crazy but I prefer the look of the exposed bolt heads.

Also I am skeptical that the internal bolt(s) can be as strong as a bolt that goes completely through the stock and is tightened down, "gripping" the stock as opposed to being held in an internal cavity by epoxy.
To me it seems that simple glass bedding, by itself, would provide the same amount of strength. :confused:

Anyway, when my stuff comes in I intend to install cross-bolts in my ZKK-602 .416Rem.
 
Demonical said:
I just ordered a B-Square jig for drilling the stock to install the cross-bolts. I'm more concerned with function then appearance. Call me crazy but I prefer the look of the exposed bolt heads.

Also I am skeptical that the internal bolt(s) can be as strong as a bolt that goes completely through the stock and is tightened down, "gripping" the stock as opposed to being held in an internal cavity by epoxy.
To me it seems that simple glass bedding, by itself, would provide the same amount of strength. :confused:

Anyway, when my stuff comes in I intend to install cross-bolts in my ZKK-602 .416Rem.
Click to expand...

Be sure to keep us updated Demonical. This will be a very good test with the Caliber you are using.

I ended up getting He who cannot be mentioned to put in hidden pins (3) in the 9,3 stock while he epoxied it. It has held up so far but I am only playing with 250gr bullets so far.

I must mention I have since had Guntech bed the action of my 8x57 and put in pins as he mentioned. He did a great job in an incredibly short time frame.
He will be getting more of my money guaranteed!

Thanks Dennis!:)
 
Demonical said:
I just ordered a B-Square jig for drilling the stock to install the cross-bolts. I'm more concerned with function then appearance. Call me crazy but I prefer the look of the exposed bolt heads.

Also I am skeptical that the internal bolt(s) can be as strong as a bolt that goes completely through the stock and is tightened down, "gripping" the stock as opposed to being held in an internal cavity by epoxy.
To me it seems that simple glass bedding, by itself, would provide the same amount of strength. :confused:

Anyway, when my stuff comes in I intend to install cross-bolts in my ZKK-602 .416Rem.
Click to expand...



Well I finally got around to doing the cross-bolt installation. That jig from B-Square is fanastic, the job was simple.

BUT I got a question: Should I put Loc-Tite on the threads of the cross-bolt? :confused:
 
Show you how simple this B-Square cross-bolt jig is...


BSquareJig006.jpg

The B-Square jig (with an extra cross-bolt). Notice the adjustable reference tab.


BSquareJig.jpg

The jig with the drill inserted through the drill guide and the counter-sink tool in front. You complete the drill holes, remove the jig and then run the counter-sink, being very careful to test the depth of the counter-sink against the cross-bolt screw head...


BSquareJig007.jpg


BSquareJig009.jpg

Now you can see how the jig is set in place, with the adjustable tab properly positioning the jig. The tab goes against the front edge of the rear recoil lug and then again, against the front edge of the front recoil lug.


BSquareJig008.jpg

The hardest part of the operation is getting the jig properly secured, with a good clamp, to prevent it moving.


BSquareJig001.jpg


BSquareJig002.jpg


BSquareJig005.jpg


BSquareJig004.jpg


BSquareJig003.jpg

The finished installation. I got a happy face in the wood from careless use of the wrench, but not too bad really.



Sorry about the pic quality, it's not my bag baby... ;)
 
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