Crush Washer x2~any issues?

.22LRGUY

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Hey guys~had my first experience with crush washers last night and it didn't go exactly as planned. Took the flash hider off of my XCR-L, the original washer, and cleaned the end of the barrel. There was some hard, carbon build-up on there. (after only approx. 200 rounds?) Applied a very thin coating of grease to the threads, put the new crush washer on, and was surprised at how little the washer needed to compress to get the new BattleComp 1.0 indexed. Felt nice and tight, should have left it there. Having watched several guys on YouTube videos having to give it a real heave-ho to get on, I figured that I MUST have to go another full rotation. Wrong. Didn't want to really force it, but it rotated a little over 180 degrees and was going no further. Not having a spare crush washer, I decided to see if adding the original one, PLUS the new compressed one, would get things tight without excessive force, AND, have the thing indexed properly. BINGO! Worked fine.

I emailed a CGN sponsor about picking-up a couple more crush washers, and then looked online for a while to see if I could find any reference, or discussions about whether or not it's OK to have 2 on there~didn't find anything except some mention of washers + shims to get things lined-up right. I also inspected the muzzle using a small flash light, and it looks perfectly lined-up to what I can see of the end of the threading on the BC.

I plan on getting a couple more ANYWAY...but do you think it's essential to only have one, or do you see any issues with running the rifle with both on there? Please put my mind at ease! lol

Thanks for taking a moment to reply!

22LRG
 
Get a new crush washer and put it on properly.

Put the hider on until hand tight, then turn it 90 degrees for min torque. You can turn another full turn to index it. That's min 90 and max 450 degrees.

You can't back up. That's why the army does not use them - it's hard to tell if it has been loosened and re-used causing a potential dangerous situation.

Don't grease the threads.

With two on there, you have less threads engaged and they are greased up - adds up to a battle comp bullet collision.
 
Get a new crush washer and put it on properly.

Put the hider on until hand tight, then turn it 90 degrees for min torque. You can turn another full turn to index it. That's min 90 and max 450 degrees.

You can't back up. That's why the army does not use them - it's hard to tell if it has been loosened and re-used causing a potential dangerous situation.

Don't grease the threads.

With two on there, you have less threads engaged and they are greased up - adds up to a battle comp bullet collision.

Thanks for the input C77. Yes, new crush washers have been ordered. Grease~I've seen it gobbed-on on "how to" vids on Youtube, I used an extremely thin coating of Lithium grease, so thin you couldn't see any white..just looked shiny. When I took off the A2, the threads were practically dripping with oil. (new rifle) Seemed counter-intuitive to add grease to anything you want to stay very tight, but figured it was an anti-corrosion thing. As for unused thread, as mentioned, the muzzle is flush to where the threads end inside the compensator, and the difference between 1 and 2 washers seems to be about .090". Not doubting your advice one bit (going to correct when the new washers arrive) but it's on there pretty good...certainly enough to drop the hammer on a few groundhogs this weekend. (maximum of about 20 shots, maybe)

It honestly feels, and looks totally safe the way it is, but I'll be following my gut (and taking your advice) anyway.

Thanks again,
22LRG
 
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