Custom Long range rifle.

HarveyDeRoy

HarveyDeRoy

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So, here I am thinking about building my own custom long range rifle. 1 problem I currently have is that I started buying rifles only a 2 years ago and I've been using multiple Remington 700. Now that i am ready to build my custom rifle, i have absolutly no idea if i should buy a remington 700 or buy something else... First custom build so please be cool! :p I already own a remington 700 in .300WM thumbhole stock, fluted barrel and detachable mag(these s*ck)

Here's what i have in mind

Caliber: .300WM
Receiver:
Triger: Timney trigger (unsure)
Barrel: (looking at a 26")
Stock: ACIS 1.5/ ACIS AX/McMillan A5
Bolt: (Still looking around)
Mag: Most likely an ATRS Detachable

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Will answer on your PM sent to me.

We can build anything you want and offer a wide range of stuff.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=276

and my website can help you with info and product.

HS bottom metal is an option. Bell and carlson stocks are similar to the McM but 1/2 the price and some, instock.

Triggers, barrels, and options - plenty to choose from.

Rem will work just fine if that is what you are comfy with. Savage is another option.

Custom actions and other commercial actions too.

The sky is the limit. So decide on what you want and your budget.

It's all possible.

Jerry
 
what would you want to use it for? that is a hard round to shoot all day and it is is not very good for barrel life either. you have to go to a heavy long bullet to match the efficiency and ballistic coefficient of a good 6.5 or 7mm bullet.

There is nothing wrong with building off a remington action but i like to open the barrel threads and true the lugs, sometimes you have to true the bolt face and i personally like a tighter fitting firing pin as well. dpending on who is doing the work the action accurizing can add up and you may think about just buying a good custom. the thins is, you already have a remington so you are half way there. i think the surgeon action is a very well built action and they are as good as any if you want a repeater or a single shot. I have just played with a PGW action that are made here in canada and they seem very nice for a repeater action.

remember that you can swap out your bolt to a pacific tool and gauge bolt and get any bolt face you want. if you want to become a better shooter in the end, i would personally start with a more shooter friendly round than a 300winmag but my advice is only as good as what you paid for it.

D.
 
Hey harvy. This is Dunphy.

The R700 action is one of the best actions to use. Pretty much every other aftermarket one is based off it. When you get a new barrel installed it will be "blue printed" and everything. Really you can't get any better than that.

Biggest thing you need to think of is what cal you want.

All the stocks you chose are great. You should also check out XLR industries. A guy here owns north shore and he can get em.

Hope ur having fun up there man.
 
Realistically, budget around $3k.

Action: (whatever) $900-$1500
Barrel: $450
Stock: (well that's up to you)

Plus gunsmithing.. and that is where is counts. If a gunsmith does not bed your rifle properly, or (most importantly) chamber your rifle properly, the quality of the parts will not matter.

If I were you, I would discuss the choice of reamer with my chosen gunsmith, and *then* contact a US reamer maker about what they are making. If you are reloading, then getting a reamer designed for your chamber/bullet/free-bore is essential PLUS getting a full-size die built for your chamber. That is the last key to accuracy.

-- L
 
have you thought about a 260 or 260AI? if only killing targets it will do anything the 300wm will do with less recoil,powder and in a short action
 
Heavy or fluted makes no difference. The fluting is ment to shave off weight and looks cool. It's not weight savings you will notice. If I was you I would just stick to a heavy contour.

You should check out shilen barrels.
 
Tikka6xc said:
Heavy or fluted makes no difference. The fluting is ment to shave off weight and looks cool. It's not weight savings you will notice. If I was you I would just stick to a heavy contour.

You should check out shilen barrels.
Click to expand...

Fluting is accually ment to create more surface area for faster barrel cooling, it just happens to look cool
 
long range shooters do not use fluted barrels as a rule. fluting has the effect of relieving mechanical stress in the barrel created during the rifling process this can make them warp or even make them warp as they get hot. a good quality cut barrel like a smith, mcphee bartlein or krieger would be ok to flute, but stay away from fluting on button or hammered barrels. the only real difference it makes is to the look of the gun. an expense i would NOT bother with personally.
 
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So, I've checked my budget. Here's What I plan to do. Use my actual rem700 .300wm and change the stock, trigger and bottom metal. How good is my remington 700 factory barrel(it is fluted less than 400rds)? Worth changing before other upgrades? Also should i worry about a SMALL muzzle brake(dont want something like a .50 muzzle brake)?

Jamie thanks for the idea but I started with a .300wm and I love it, i dont think I'll change to a 260.
 
HarveyDeRoy said:
How good is my remington 700 factory barrel(it is fluted less than 400rds)? Worth changing before other upgrades?
Click to expand...

You tell us. How good is it?
- how accurately does it shoot for you?
- how quickly does it pick up fouling? How soon before accuracy degrades, and is improved by cleaning? Is this more or less than the number of rounds you'd like to fire in a day's shooting?

A barrel is a disposable, consumable part (like brake pads on your car). You should almost not bat an eyelid at replacing one when it is shot out, or if you even suspect it might be, or if you are not 100% sure that it is delivering superb accuracy. Whether you spend money on another barrel or not, there are a lot of others things that you'll be spending big money on regardless:
- your ammo
- your cost of travelling to the range or to matches
- match entry fees (if you shoot at competitions)
- your action, stock, scope and other equipment

Even a very good barrel is not terribly expensive in the scheme of things, compared to your other expenses (for say $600 you can get a proper match barrel installed; if you get 1200-1800 rounds of match-winning accuracy from it, that costs you 33-50c/shot, which is probably less than the cost of the ammo you are shooting).
 
Jamie said:
have you thought about a 260 or 260AI? if only killing targets it will do anything the 300wm will do with less recoil,powder and in a short action
Click to expand...

Isn't a 300WM already a "downsized" round? Maybe he was thinking 338LM.:)

Oh yeah and a 260 won't ring steel the same.
 
r204 said:
Fluting is accually ment to create more surface area for faster barrel cooling, it just happens to look cool
Click to expand...

Physics states that for every action there is a equal reaction, therefore if it cools faster it will also heat up faster. More importantly it will heat up unevenly, which while maybe looking cool in fact is not.
 
HarveyDeRoy said:
One more question, heavy barrel or fluted barrel?
Click to expand...

There is nothing wrong with fluting when done properly. Real fluting jobs will cost Alot of money, it does take lot of time when done right, result is lighter and stiff for weight ratio, but out of the dozen rifle I did for myself, it all start as Gaillard heavy barrel, 6 and 8 spiral fluting was put on, the total of depth taking out on the surface was done over several time with large amount of cooling spraying on to prevent heat and chip build up. not of these rifle had any defect so far, If there was any defeating result from fluting, than I am sure PGW wouldnt have done.
IMG_4083.jpg

DSC01364.jpg

DSC01213.jpg
 
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"There is nothing RIGHT with fluting when done properly. Real fluting jobs will WASTE Alot of money, it does take lot of time when done right, result is MARGINALLY lighter .......

There I fixed it for you
 
The thing with custom is that after you price out all the part need, labor from smith, tunning the action, if it cost any where near 3k, you better of go and get yourself a Sako TRG, and if the price come out to be any where near 5k get you head out of your ASS and go get a PGW or AI, because in the long run, you will get most of the fund back!

Just because some smith can't do fluting, they will say that there is no gain or it all wrong, very BS!
 
GunBoy said:
The thing with custom is that after you price out all the part need, labor from smith, tunning the action, if it cost any where near 3k, you better of go and get yourself a Sako TRG, and if the price come out to be any where near 5k get you head out of your ASS and go get a PGW or AI, because in the long run, you will get most of the fund back!

Just because some smith can't do fluting, they will say that there is no gain or it all wrong, very BS!
Click to expand...

Gunboy makes some valid points - I own/ have owned both TRG and PGW as well as custom built on Remy and on custom receiver and the TRG and PGW have better resale value but a 'built for you' custom does give YOU exactly what YOU want. Re the barrel fluting issue, I like both fluted and unfluted but am not qualified to comment as to which is better.
 
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