Customizing a coach gun?

infidel29

infidel29

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Hello all. Is there much that can be done to customize for functionality a short barrelled coach gun? Thinking along the lines of running matches sort of work. I know Casey at Tactical Ordnance does semis and pumps, but who does that sort of functional work to this class of shotgun?
Thanks.
 
infidel29: What brand coach gun? That will offer some basis for advice. If Stoeger, relatively easy to 'slick up'.
 
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I modified the safety on my Stoeger/IGA coach gun to not turn on when closing the action. That information is also available on Pure Tuber (ad free Youtube).
 
infidel29: Boito E 680. Mfg. by E.R. Amantino, in Brazil. Shorter barrelled cousin to the 20" coach gun, sold under the Stoeger label. Plenty of how-to videos on you tube, showing how to slick up these guns. Not hard to do, with even basic firearms knowledge. The gun will need to be partially disassembled, though. So if this is beyond your skill, any competent gunsmith can do the job in no time. As alpining suggests, Rusty Wood is an excellent gunsmith.

A detailed tutorial would take up far too much space in this forum. So briefly, here are the basic areas that will need attention: Barrel pivot point(action knuckles). Barrel locking lugs(Polish front surfaces). Chambers(Polish) . Disengage the automatic safety. Lighten or replace the lever spring. Replace firing pins.

Polishing the action knuckles and lugs is pretty straightforward. Several you tube videos explain the process in good detail. Simply requires smoothing out rough machining marks left behind by the factory. If doing it by hand: Start with 400-grit sandpaper. Finish with 800-grit. Or, emery cloth. When finished, the gun should open and close noticeably easier.

Chambers: Here is my method. Most of the time, the chambers on these guns smooth out nicely, simply by polishing them with extra-fine steel wool. I wrap a generous twist of the steel wool on a section of cleaning rod. An old bore brush helps here, to hold onto the steel wool. Attach the rod to an electric drill. Then ,run the steel wool back and forth in the chambers(at moderate speed), until the chambers appear smooth and shiny. When finished, fired hulls should drop from the chambers easily. Or eject, with a flick of the wrist (Some technique needs to be applied here).

Going to a lighter lever spring also reduces a lot of the effort needed to operate these shotguns. You can either cut a little off the stock lever spring. Or, An easier method: purchase a reduced tension, aftermarket spring. Longhunter Shooting Supply in the U.S., is a good source for these springs. Not hard to replace. There are you tube videos which demonstrate this process, too.

Note: Be careful not to trim too much off the stock spring. Generally, 1/2 to one coil, is enough. Aftermarket spring is a simple drop in, requiring no further modification.

Disengage the automatic safety. Simply involves cutting a short section off the end of the lever impeller rod. With the stock removed, you can see the rod move back and engage the safety mechanism, as the action opens(Barrels need to be attached). Only need to remove enough off the end of the rod, so that it no longer engages the mechanism. Only takes a few minutes. Can do this at the same time the lever spring is replaced.

Note: The safety still operates manually.

Replace firing pins: Simply offers better longterm reliability. Stainless firing pins generally the best option.

Here are some sources which may be useful: General information on modifications:

Marauder Home Page. Good, detailed info here.

Longhunter Shooting Supply: Good source for aftermarket parts, ie: reduced power lever springs. Replacement firing pins. Note: Be sure to purchase a bushing wrench. Needed when replacing firing pins.

Numrich Gun Parts: Good source for Boito parts.


After these few, simple modifications, you should notice a big difference in how easily your gun operates. Even with the short barrels. There are likely other sources I've missed. But at least, this should give you a good start.

Al

ps: To remove the stock retaining bolt, you will need an 11 mm socket.
 
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I'm with Garand. Rusty Wood (Peter Riedel) is hands down....at least in my opinion, the best go-to cowboy action gunsmith here, in Canada. Peter is an active cowboy action competitor, and knows exactly what it takes, to get match guns running smooth and fast. Including, double-barrelled coach guns.

Al

ps: Since you hadn't mentioned what sort of competitive shooting sport you were interested in....if going into cowboy action for example: If your shotgun is fitted with a hi-viz front sight, that will also need to be replaced by a plain bead. See SASS Shooters Handbook to clarify. Otherwise, you are good to go.
 
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Some CAS guys funnel the chambers of their SXS’s to aid in faster loading. It looks a bit dodgy to me, but if you can find someone experienced in doing it you’ll find your reloads improve a bunch.
 
True: Chamfering the chamber mouths does aid in faster reloads. Ideally, the shells should roll smoothly into the chambers....rather than hang up on the sharply edged chamber mouths. This causes the loss of precious seconds on the clock. So....chamfering the chamber mouths is a good way to reduce fumbles and speed up stage times.

The problem I've seen with some chamber funneling jobs though, is a tendency to cut too far into the chambers. A quick and easy way to get the job done, but... can create its own set of problems. Not the least of which: the chamber cut that supports the shotshell rim gets partially or even fully, cut away. Which may compromise headspace. So, the tendency and frequency of FTF`s (failure to fire), goes up, too.

In one extreme case, so much metal had been ground and filed away from the ends of the chambers that, the barrels were significantly off the action face. The gap being easily visible with the naked eye. This hack job being done by a so-called "professional". The gun's owner learning an expensive lesson in the process. So....finding someone who knows what they're doing can be a challenge.

Al
 
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I bought a 12 gauge chamber Flexhone, from Brownells and polished the chambers of both mine and my wife SxS's that we use in the main match, but also the chamber on my Winchester M97 takedown that I use for Wild Bunch.
 
Garand: Also have one of the Brownell's flexhones. It figures....none of my guns`chambers required honing. Just lucky, I suppose. A good going over with steel wool cleaned them up nicely. But, did work on a fellow shooter`s Stoeger coach gun that needed a little more care. Fired hulls fly out of the chambers, now. Still, despite collecting dust most of the time, the flexhone was a good investment.

Al
 
Alex McKr said:
Garand: Also have one of the Brownell's flexhones. It figures....none of my guns`chambers required honing. Just lucky, I suppose. A good going over with steel wool cleaned them up nicely. But, did work on a fellow shooter`s Stoeger coach gun that needed a little more care. Fired hulls fly out of the chambers, now. Still, despite collecting dust most of the time, the flexhone was a good investment.

Al
Click to expand...

I touch up the chambers every couple of years, depending how many matches my wife shoots. I have no problem ejecting fired hulls but my wife hasn't got the muscle mass that would make it easier. I've probably done at least 6-7 friends chambers, I ask for pay with beer, works for me!
 
Garand: I like to touch mine up, too. Usually once a year(extra fine steel wool). Maybe a couple of times, depending on usage. Keeps the chambers nice and slick. Your wife likely appreciates the extra care to her gun. How does that old saying go: "Happy wife....happy life" . Then... hope they don't whip us too badly!

I don't mind a cold brew after working on a pard's gun, too.

Al
 
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infidel29 said:
Boito 14" coach gun
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If you plan on shooting in a SASS Sanctioned match, you need a shotgun with a barrel length of at least 18".
See the sentence in red below. This is from page 33 of the shooters handbook.

Barrels
- Barrels or chambers may be re-bored, lined, or sleeved to any of the approved
calibers or gauges for that particular firearm provided industry safe limits are
maintained.
- Original barrels may be replaced with new barrels of correct styles (e.g., round,
octagon, half-round) for that type of firearm.
- Barrels may be shortened and/or crowned.
- Rifle barrels must maintain a length of at least 16 inches.
- Rifle barrels may be altered to accept mounting hardware for an alternative tube
magazine configuration and capacity appropriate to the model of firearm being
altered.
- Barrels may be altered to accept period style sights as described within the Sights
Section.
- Shotgun barrels must maintain a length of at least 18 inches.
- Shotgun barrels may have internal choke tubes installed provided they do not
extend beyond the muzzle.
- Ventilated ribs and mid-barrel beads are allowed on all types of shotguns.
- No heavy competition or “Bull Barrel” is allowed on revolver caliber firearms.
- Barrels must be made of steel or iron only.
- Visible counter-weighting devices are not allowed.
- Compensating ports are not allowed.
 
rdhs said:
If you plan on shooting in a SASS Sanctioned match, you need a shotgun with a barrel length of at least 18".
See the sentence in red below. This is from page 33 of the shooters handbook.

Barrels
- Barrels or chambers may be re-bored, lined, or sleeved to any of the approved
calibers or gauges for that particular firearm provided industry safe limits are
maintained.
- Original barrels may be replaced with new barrels of correct styles (e.g., round,
octagon, half-round) for that type of firearm.
- Barrels may be shortened and/or crowned.
- Rifle barrels must maintain a length of at least 16 inches.
- Rifle barrels may be altered to accept mounting hardware for an alternative tube
magazine configuration and capacity appropriate to the model of firearm being
altered.
- Barrels may be altered to accept period style sights as described within the Sights
Section.
- Shotgun barrels must maintain a length of at least 18 inches.
- Shotgun barrels may have internal choke tubes installed provided they do not
extend beyond the muzzle.
- Ventilated ribs and mid-barrel beads are allowed on all types of shotguns.
- No heavy competition or “Bull Barrel” is allowed on revolver caliber firearms.
- Barrels must be made of steel or iron only.
- Visible counter-weighting devices are not allowed.
- Compensating ports are not allowed.
Click to expand...

I don't plan on competing. I just want the added functionality the mods would give me.
 
This seems like the thread to ask.

Has any messed around with the Stevens 311 to increase the opening height? I've seen the sites with the magazine articles and the cocktail napkin drawings about modifying the cocking arm, and I can't really make heads or tails of it.

I'm not sure of the date of my gun so I'm not sure if i have the later model cocking plunger.
 
I have an early 1900s hammer coach gun ten gauge Parkhurst twenty inch barrels. The condition the Damascus metal so good it could have been built in the last year 1939. It's not a cut down because chokes are full and full. If you use all brass hulls those empties always extract with zero issues.
I had Nick Makinson rebrown the barrels for me about four years ago. Weird and neat almost cherry highlights.
 
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