Cutting a Stock
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Before you cut the stock pending what model it is. I would try to find one already done.
That is what I did for both a 1100 and 870 when my girls were small and started shooting. I was glad when they quit I still had the original stocks to put back on. Just one man's opinion.
I use a couple layers of masking tape and a pen to mark the "cut to" line. Cut shy of the line, I use a back saw, then true and cleanup with a disc sander.
~ Plastic melts easy, try not to generate much heat.
~ If the stock is currently flat, maintain a parallel cut.
~ If the stock is currently curved, maintain the same pitch - important.
~ A little goes a long ways, an inch is a lot, cut a shorter length to test if you're not sure.
~ Make sure there are no bolts or tubes in the stock that will interfere.
~ Make sure the replacement pad will actually work and are available before cutting.
~ Seal the wood when you are done cutting and sanding.
~ Make sure there is a place to use the pad screws, many plastic stocks are a pain.
~ Sling studs may interfere with the pad screw, plan for contingencies.
~ The holes for the old pad/plate probably won't work.
~ Plastic melts easy, try not to generate much heat.
~ If the stock is currently flat, maintain a parallel cut.
~ If the stock is currently curved, maintain the same pitch - important.
~ A little goes a long ways, an inch is a lot, cut a shorter length to test if you're not sure.
~ Make sure there are no bolts or tubes in the stock that will interfere.
~ Make sure the replacement pad will actually work and are available before cutting.
~ Seal the wood when you are done cutting and sanding.
~ Make sure there is a place to use the pad screws, many plastic stocks are a pain.
~ Sling studs may interfere with the pad screw, plan for contingencies.
~ The holes for the old pad/plate probably won't work.
Thanks for the tips. Taped the stock, marked it, fine tooth saw blade and it is now an inch and a half smaller. May still take of another 1/4 - 1/2" yet. It fits and feels 1000 times better. I've yet to trim the butt bad but don't really mind that it is long. I may look for a replacement one day. I wish I had done this a year ago!
I did look at some videos but also wanted to hear some first hand experience. One thing I wish I would have done was drill the original pad holes deeper so I could see their placement after the cut.
If you have the stock cut, and the cut is sharp, clean with no splintering, the hard part is done. Sanding the butt pad down to meet the cut is easily done with carbide sanding disc's on a drill.
Tape the stock with 2 layers of masking tape first. When your sanding disc just kisses the first layer of tape stop there. You can take it down perfectly smooth and flush by hand afterwards.
Tape the stock with 2 layers of masking tape first. When your sanding disc just kisses the first layer of tape stop there. You can take it down perfectly smooth and flush by hand afterwards.
Since your putting a new pad on good chance the old holes are no good to you and should be plugged anyway. Just sit your new pad on and use a punch on something similar to insert through the pad and mark the location on the wood to drill the new holes. I put a piece of tape across the top of the pad and onto both sides of the stock to hold the pad while doing the holes.
Update:
So I had a couple beers, got brave a did it up. First I taped the stock, measured my cut, drew a line around the stock and prepared. That involved enjoying another beer before I took a hacksaw to my perfectly good Browning. Beer finished and the cutting started. I actually cut it twice, the first time wasn't short enough, I put back on the original pad. It over hangs but I really don't care. I shortened the LOP from 14"+ to 12.5". To me, it feels much better. Sight aligns up great, more comfortable to shoulder and shoot, doesn't get hung up on my coat and smashes geese, deer and clay pigeons better than before!
Here's a couple pics of the after.
If anyone is thinking about doing this, do it. It wasn't as bad as I thought. I'm not planning to sell this so I'm not concerned about value, only function. And this works much better for me.
So I had a couple beers, got brave a did it up. First I taped the stock, measured my cut, drew a line around the stock and prepared. That involved enjoying another beer before I took a hacksaw to my perfectly good Browning. Beer finished and the cutting started. I actually cut it twice, the first time wasn't short enough, I put back on the original pad. It over hangs but I really don't care. I shortened the LOP from 14"+ to 12.5". To me, it feels much better. Sight aligns up great, more comfortable to shoulder and shoot, doesn't get hung up on my coat and smashes geese, deer and clay pigeons better than before!
Here's a couple pics of the after.
If anyone is thinking about doing this, do it. It wasn't as bad as I thought. I'm not planning to sell this so I'm not concerned about value, only function. And this works much better for me.
May I be the first to say, Bubba did a good job.
As stated, clean up the cut with a little carefull sanding as you've managed to take some noteable chips out. That pad is fine on the gun but take a grinder or sander and take it down to fit which is best to mark and do it off the gun and carefull to get the toe angle right.
May want to reposition that sling stud or with the little wood behind it you may be minus the toe of the stock.
As stated, clean up the cut with a little carefull sanding as you've managed to take some noteable chips out. That pad is fine on the gun but take a grinder or sander and take it down to fit which is best to mark and do it off the gun and carefull to get the toe angle right.
May want to reposition that sling stud or with the little wood behind it you may be minus the toe of the stock.
