Cutting off the Flash Hider?

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SUPER TENERE

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Got the 305 Shorty and was wondering if lopping off the Flash Hider will have any ill effects? Just want to make the whole thing a little shorter. Thanks.
 
Put the dremel or hacksaw away please .. why would you cut it off when it can be removed with a wrench ???? The rifle will still function without the FH but you will get a nasty fireball shooting in low light ..
 
Have you seen the new Socom from Canada Ammo? It has a reversible flash hider that you can take off, flip around, and put back on so it does not stick out so far. Might be worth seeing if you could do a trade.

Other than that, increased muzzle flash is likely to be expected.
 
I was not keen on hammering the end of my barrel, so I used a cutting wheel in my angle grinder to remove the stock f'hider.

¡BLASPHEMY! ...anyway...

First I removed the front sight, just to get it out of the way.
Then, I wore through the back edge of the bayonet lug base... the thing to remember is TAKE YOUR TIME and RECHECK YOUR PROGRESS FREQUENTLY. I dreaded even a touch to my barrel with the wheel (thinnest cutting wheel I had, btw), so I took quite a while, pausing to let heat dissipate and to check how close I was getting.

Once the bayo lug was thin enough, a twist with a suitable screwdriver and it cracked. Further CAREFUL grinding thinned out the opposing side (front sight base) so I could basically bend and snap off the slotted section of that pos lopsided Norinco FH.

The castlenut was easy to remove with a leather padded visegrip.

More CAREFUL grinding/cutting thinned the back half of the FH splined section so with the same twisting a screwdriver trick I could crack one side, wedge farther open (breaking the welds), and then it was easily threaded/pulled off. As I recall, I chose to thin between splines.

The trick of course is not to rush the job. I took quite a while, and have steady hands, even with an angle grinder. Most of the hour (maybe hour and a half?) this took was due to the FREQUENT RECHECKING OF THE WHEEL'S PROGRESS, as I was not remotely interested in nicking the barrel...

Your personal experience might vary with this technique, and if there's a frig up my bet's on that the job was rushed.
 
I wanted to keep my front sight- but did not want the xtra length of the fake muzzle brake. My black and decker cutting wheel took it off about an inch from the front sight. Point of impact went up hugely! My open sights could not be adjusted to compensate ( needed a taller front sight) so I got a m14.ca scope mount and all is good.
 
I got one that bubba tried to fix and made this out of it .
I havnt tried it on a rifle yet






Here is a few pics of another one that was cut down...notice it has no slots cut into the flashider.



 
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SUPER TENERE said:
Got the 305 Shorty and was wondering if lopping off the Flash Hider will have any ill effects? Just want to make the whole thing a little shorter. Thanks.
Click to expand...

It's a diff of 2.5-3". Does it really matter? Besides, loose the FH and you loose the "PING"

But the end results do look good!.....^^^
 
IMG_2405.jpg
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Kayser Sose said:
I was not keen on hammering the end of my barrel, so I used a cutting wheel in my angle grinder to remove the stock f'hider.

¡BLASPHEMY! ...anyway...

First I removed the front sight, just to get it out of the way.
Then, I wore through the back edge of the bayonet lug base... the thing to remember is TAKE YOUR TIME and RECHECK YOUR PROGRESS FREQUENTLY. I dreaded even a touch to my barrel with the wheel (thinnest cutting wheel I had, btw), so I took quite a while, pausing to let heat dissipate and to check how close I was getting.

Once the bayo lug was thin enough, a twist with a suitable screwdriver and it cracked. Further CAREFUL grinding thinned out the opposing side (front sight base) so I could basically bend and snap off the slotted section of that pos lopsided Norinco FH.

The castlenut was easy to remove with a leather padded visegrip.

More CAREFUL grinding/cutting thinned the back half of the FH splined section so with the same twisting a screwdriver trick I could crack one side, wedge farther open (breaking the welds), and then it was easily threaded/pulled off. As I recall, I chose to thin between splines.

The trick of course is not to rush the job. I took quite a while, and have steady hands, even with an angle grinder. Most of the hour (maybe hour and a half?) this took was due to the FREQUENT RECHECKING OF THE WHEEL'S PROGRESS, as I was not remotely interested in nicking the barrel...

Your personal experience might vary with this technique, and if there's a frig up my bet's on that the job was rushed.
Click to expand...

guess I gotta ask why? I mean why didn't you just spin off the castle nut and take the FH off??
 
The barrel lengths on the socom and m305 are the same. The flash hider is what makes one longer than the other. Not all m305 flash hiders are welded on. Mine wasn't, just the set screw and castle nut.

Added a navy sight and a flash hider that matched the weird thread style of the castle nut. Looks as good as the socom in my humble, biased opinion. :p

Some have the stock flashier modified so the original threads are removed inside, and added further in. See post 7 of this sticky... http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/38722-M14-FAQ-Tips-Help-amp-Info
 
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