Cutting oil for chambering
- Thread starter maddtrappr
- Start date
I started using “vipers venom” but one day I ran out and needed to finish the job. I bought rigid dark cutting oil locally and finished the job. Since then I’ve stuck with rigid, I cant notice any difference in chambers, it’s considerably cheaper and available locally.
I’ve also read some guys using the rigid “nu-clear” with good results, and it’s supposed to be much easier on you. (No halogens, or other nasties)
I’ve also read some guys using the rigid “nu-clear” with good results, and it’s supposed to be much easier on you. (No halogens, or other nasties)
I came across a witches brew recommended on a machinists site that I have been using which involved Ridgid Dark for the sulphur along with syn. ATM fluid and moly D oil. I use other fluids at times as well but that formulation does give good results. This sort of thing is like like lead alloys for bullet casting. There is no one correct answer. Turning speed- reamer sharpness, etc can all conspire to give varying results. As Shell used to advertise-- your mileage may vary from published figures.
Why?
You don't think anyone else might ever want to know?
Guys and gals that answer questions like yours, on the Forums, are doing so with the expectation that those answers will be useful to more than just you. That's how this works. Otherwise it would be an endless cycle of the same questions over and over again, the folks that know anything will quickly enough quit responding, and it all dies.
Oh yeah. In a pinch, Lard, bacon fat, or other animal fats. Those made up a large part of the contents of cutting oils a long time back, and they have not become less effective. They do turn rancid if left in the warmth of the shop for long times though.
Read about using a wrap of wax paper around a reamer that was chattering. Tried that, damned if it didn't work, though I was not using a chambering reamer at the time.
