cz 858 problem

[shawn]

Your right it looks damaged. I don't know what might cause that but I'd look at the tab on the striker to see if there is damage there too.

Call Wolverine and order a new one and striker if its damaged too, they should have a bunch on hand. When I broke my extractor I phoned them up an for $12 shipped I had two on the way.

Shawn

 

[Carr1ck]

Your right it looks damaged. I don't know what might cause that but I'd look at the tab on the striker to see if there is damage there too.

Call Wolverine and order a new one and striker if its damaged too, they should have a bunch on hand. When I broke my extractor I phoned them up an for $12 shipped I had two on the way.

Shawn

Thanks for the reply. Sucks to be buying replacement parts with only like 30 rounds through it. Not very happy!!

 

[Sardaukar]

Here is the pin lock that was part of the issue, you need to check this when reassembling and periodically. It can lock up you gun. This is the position it needs to be in:

This is the position you don't want it in:

You can see with the pivot lock in this position the upper ear will catch on the striker preventing it from going forward and giving you a dead trigger. It will also prevent you from disassembling it because of this:

With the striker locked back the spring guide is inside the striker and will not allow you to raise the dust cover enough to get it off.

Just something to watch out for, it has happened to at least one board member.

Shanw

This happened to me, about 6 months ago. I ended up sending it back and got it repaired but I never found out exactly how to get the cover off in that situation. Please enlighten me, as one never knows, it might happen again.

 

[shawn]

There are two way I can think of to get you out of the above.

One is a super pain in the ass and the other wrecks you dust cover.

1) remove the grip and fish a round in there with a pick or something and push it down enough to get the striker to release.

2) drill out the rivets on the dust cover and remove the sheet metal and push down the pivot lock. Then replace the dust cover.

There maybe others but I don't know about them, as I have never had this happen and am just looking at it and trying to think a way out of it. If anyone knows another way post it up.

Shawn

 

[shawn]

I thought of another way too.

You could drill a small hole in the receiver beside the trigger guard on the bolt hold open side. Use an allen key or the like, to push up the pivot lock and bingo you are good. Just put a set screw in the hole you drilled and lock tight it to stop stuff from getting in and your set.

I would measure carefully and do this before you need it. If you are going to go this way. The plus side is this way is field fixable if you keep the allen key handy.



Shawn

 

[Curtton]

Thanks for the reply. Sucks to be buying replacement parts with only like 30 rounds through it. Not very happy!!

carr1, i dont know why you want to fix this yourself when you bought it from a dealer , just take it back .

shawn, please dont give any advice to drill any gun parts , firstly , it would void the warranty , secondly , if done improperly it could cause harm.

 

[JRW (QOR)]

Well . . . . just took it out to test it. Shot a clip perfectly, then every other shot was pretty much a dead trigger. Never happened when I racked it, only after firing a shot. After ejecting the shell after a dead trigger I noticed a small dint in the primer.

Ideas? Starting to get really frustrated now!!

I had the same problem. It's solvable. You need to either make or get a very small washer, brass preferably. It has to go on the trigger pin on the right of the trigger. What's happening is there is too much freedom of the trigger to move along the pin. If you put it back together without the dust cover and manually cycle the action you can recreate the problem.

Mine hasnt misfired since.

 

[JRW (QOR)]

This happened to me, about 6 months ago. I ended up sending it back and got it repaired but I never found out exactly how to get the cover off in that situation. Please enlighten me, as one never knows, it might happen again.

If it does it again you can get the striker to move forward by pushing the trigger as far left as possible while holding the breachblock back by hand. Then allow it to move forward with the trigger pulled. It may take a few times but that's how I got it forward.

 

[Sardaukar]

1) remove the grip and fish a round in there with a pick or something and push it down enough to get the striker to release.

2) drill out the rivets on the dust cover and remove the sheet metal and push down the pivot lock. Then replace the dust cover.

Those are the two I had thought of. Both are not very pleasing.

If it does it again you can get the striker to move forward by pushing the trigger as far left as possible while holding the breachblock back by hand. Then allow it to move forward with the trigger pulled. It may take a few times but that's how I got it forward.

Makes sense. I would definitely try that first.

 

[shawn]

shawn, please dont give any advice to drill any gun parts , firstly , it would void the warranty , secondly , if done improperly it could cause harm.

Not everyone has a new gun and I never said it was the preferred way, just a way.

And there is next to no way drilling a small hole in the bottom of the receiver could cause any harm.

Shawn

 

[Carr1ck]

carr1, i dont know why you want to fix this yourself when you bought it from a dealer , just take it back.

Thanks again for your reply, I wanted to fix it myself because I am eager to use it for deer season that started monday and I purchased it from dealer a few provinces over so its not so easy just to return. I looked at the striker and can't see any other damage done other then to the sheer so maybe I'll contact the dealer and see if he will help me out with a new sheer since the damage was done due to the sheer pin lock not being in place.

JRW thanks for the reply and the detailed picture, I really appreciate it. I can't recreate the problem by manually cycling the rifle, the problem only occurs now after the rifle cycles after taking a shot. When I cycle it myself I never get a dead trigger. I believe the only reason I was having this problem is because the sheer pin lock was not correctly in place when I got the rifle and now because the sheer is damaged. Regardless I will take the advice and definitely put a shim in there. However, you can clearly see from the picture I posted of the sheer that it is damaged.

 

[JRW (QOR)]

Thanks again for your reply, I wanted to fix it myself because I am eager to use it for deer season that started monday and I purchased it from dealer a few provinces over so its not so easy just to return. I looked at the striker and can't see any other damage done other then to the sheer so maybe I'll contact the dealer and see if he will help me out with a new sheer since the damage was done due to the sheer pin lock not being in place.

JRW thanks for the reply and the detailed picture, I really appreciate it. I can't recreate the problem by manually cycling the rifle, the problem only occurs now after the rifle cycles after taking a shot. When I cycle it myself I never get a dead trigger. I believe the only reason I was having this problem is because the sheer pin lock was not correctly in place when I got the rifle and now because the sheer is damaged. Regardless I will take the advice and definitely put a shim in there. However, you can clearly see from the picture I posted of the sheer that it is damaged.

Could be the damage was caused by the problem. Changing the part may not fix the original problem. It took me a long time paying with the action back and forth, with no problems, only to reassemble and the problem started again. So something in the positioning of a part had to be the cause. If a live round can cause the problem so can a manual manipulation. That was my premise and I played with it systematically until it finally failed to fire. Took a while to figure out what to do too, read up on the CZ Gremlin on line, lots about it. My solution in one of the sites seemed logical with what I was seeing actually happening. So tried a shim. Worked.

I'd try the shim after you replace the part, then see what happens.

The rifle is a great firearm, once you get it working you'll love using it. My plan is to get a second one before next season starts.

 

[JRW (QOR)]

Question, when you manually cycled the action, did you move just the striker and not the bolt? That's what I did while watching what moved how.

 

[Carr1ck]

Could be the damage was caused by the problem. Changing the part may not fix the original problem. It took me a long time paying with the action back and forth, with no problems, only to reassemble and the problem started again. So something in the positioning of a part had to be the cause. If a live round can cause the problem so can a manual manipulation. That was my premise and I played with it systematically until it finally failed to fire. Took a while to figure out what to do too, read up on the CZ Gremlin on line, lots about it. My solution in one of the sites seemed logical with what I was seeing actually happening. So tried a shim. Worked.

I'd try the shim after you replace the part, then see what happens.

The rifle is a great firearm, once you get it working you'll love using it. My plan is to get a second one before next season starts.

Thanks, yea I'm definitely going to use a shim when I get the new sear, why not right. I had already looked into it a got the absolute smallest washers I could find but they were still too big even though it was tiny. Gonna have to make something myself I guess

 

[Carr1ck]

Question, when you manually cycled the action, did you move just the striker and not the bolt? That's what I did while watching what moved how.

Hmm not sure what you mean?

 

[Curtton]

Not everyone has a new gun and I never said it was the preferred way, just a way.

And there is next to no way drilling a small hole in the bottom of the receiver could cause any harm.

Shawn

so on the flip side , not everyones gun has no warranty , some do and this OP has warranty.

glad you are confident in your ability but not everybody are , especially if they are new to the sport or unfimiliar with the gun , advising them to drill into the receiver (without clear guidance) when they dont know what they are doing can cause harm , the very least cause more damage.

 

[shawn]

so on the flip side , not everyones gun has no warranty , some do and this OP has warranty.

glad you are confident in your ability but not everybody are , especially if they are new to the sport or unfimiliar with the gun , advising them to drill into the receiver (without clear guidance) when they dont know what they are doing can cause harm , the very least cause more damage.

So are you saying we cant talk about possible solutions to a problem unless we either provide step by step instructions or they are so simple that they cant be messed up?

I am not getting what you issue is? I clearly stated in the post that one needed to measure carefully.

Shawn

 

[alexik]

should have bought an SKS instead ...

My SKS jams all the time!!!
The round doesn't "find the hole".... It hits the sided and thus doesn't shut

 

[Curtton]

I am not getting what you issue is?

look, i know you trying to help but its a bad advice.

heres a way without drilling a receiver, another is thru the stock bolt :
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=320178&highligh

I bought an unfired VZ-58 from the EE and just took delivery on Thursday. It seemed to working okay and I dry fired it a couple of times.

Today I watched 2-3 YouTube videos on field stripping the gun and decided to try it out myself. So I pulled the rear pin and pushed the rear receiver forwards and upwards as I'm supposed to, but it only moves forward (it's hard) but not upwards. So I cannot get the cover off.

I thought it may be because the trigger has to be pulled before the cover will come off so I tried that but I found that when I pull the trigger it does not click. The trigger is not firing; it just behaves the same as if the safety is engaged no matter how many times I rack the bolt.

Summary:
1) The receiver cover won't come off.
2) The trigger won't click.

I'm not sure if this is the infamous "gremlin". I tried reading about it but the explanations of the gremlin are a bit beyond my technical expertise with guns.

Do I have a problem or am I making a simple mistake somewhere?

as you know you can only open the top cover after dry firing.
1) you cant get the top cover off bcos the striker is cocked.
2) your trigger is not releasing the striker .
3) no, its not the gremlin, actually the reverse .

first , try dry firing again and check the select lever at different/part way positions also check the axis pins are in correctly.

if it still doesnt work then you need to get the top cover off to find out whats wrong , to do that you need to remove the pistol grip and the square screw will fall in, thru the hole stick in a hook and pull down on the sear or sear spring , that will release the striker.

ps, i have the cz858 and not the vz58 , i know the internals are slightly different so its best you ask someone who are fimiliar with the trigger housing to help you .

I tried the trigger with the select lever in every possible position but it still does not click. Next I removed the pistol grip and the square nut fell in, but unfortunately I cannot release the striker. I just stuck a piece of wire inside and wriggled it around but not knowing what I'm doing it didn't work. Now I can't put the pistol grip back on as the nut is inside the receiver somewhere.

I'll see if there's an easy solution, otherwise I'll take it to a gunsmith. Any advise on one in Toronto would be appreciated.

All the guns I've bought till now have been working flawlessly. Buying this one is a bit like buying an old British sports car. Lots of character but a pain in the posterior. Maybe I'll sell it and get another CZ-58 from Marstar, that is if they ever start selling them. Offers anyone?

you are almost there .
you not knowing the lay out of the trigger mechanism so i thought i'll post more pics .

the yellow handle tool is pointing to the sear spring .

the yellow handle tool is point to the back of the sear.

home made hook is placed at the back of the sear.

pull down on the hook and the striker (hopefully) will move forward .

 

[JRW (QOR)]

Thanks, yea I'm definitely going to use a shim when I get the new sear, why not right. I had already looked into it a got the absolute smallest washers I could find but they were still too big even though it was tiny. Gonna have to make something myself I guess

brass, of the right thickness just to make it tight, drill it, then drumel it round to make a washer. Doesnt have to be perfect, thats what I did. You can try model train stores, they have small washers. Or RC stores may have them.