CZ Shadow Single Action Trigger Problem - drops into Half #### & Double Action

[VanMan]

Hi folks, I have ~2,000 rounds through my CZ SP01 Shadow, and just recently noticed a trigger problem. I had just mounted a laser sight on my Shadow and was working on very slow and smooth single action trigger pulls - my focus was not to have the laser dot move on the target. I started to notice that if I pulled too slowly, the hammer would release, but into double action mode. If I released the trigger, the hammer would follow it down to the half #### position. I could continue to pull the trigger in double action mode and the hammer would drop fine.

My Shadow is all stock, still using all the springs it came with. I have field stripped and cleaned after each range trip, but have never done a detail strip to clean the trigger parts. The only modifications I have ever done were replacing front and rear sights.

Have attached a quick video of the problem. You can see single action and double action works fine if I do a quick trigger pull. If I do a very slow trigger pull, the problem starts.

Has anyone encountered this problem before and if yes, how did you fix it? I've done trigger jobs on my Ruger 22/45's, Glocks and 1911's, but never done any trigger work on a CZ yet. Would it be drop in parts like for the 22/45 and Glocks or does it require more fitting/tuning like the 1911 trigger?

 

[Slavex]

Turn the the overtravel screw back in, it's out too far.

 

[VanMan]

I wish it would be that easy. Actually lost the over travel screw and never got around to replacing it.

Turn the the overtravel screw back in, it's out too far.

 

[Slavex]

Roger that, next would be to check the hammer and sear engagement surfaces. sounds like the hammer is slipping past the sear. My Tanfoglio does that. The edges should be sharp and defined, with no rolled edges or anything like that. Also check your disconnector for the same. The more I watch the video, the more I think it's the disconnector. I'd pull the sear cage and clean really good under it, and the hammer and sear as well.

 

[VanMan]

Finally got around to doing a detail strip of the hammer & sear assembly. Had to look up a couple YouTube videos for this - it's more complicated than a 1911, and I didn't even try to take apart the sear assembly. Yup - was pretty grimy after ~2000 rounds. Gave it a good cleaning, and unfortunately it seems to have made the problem slightly worse. Remeasured the trigger pull and it's still pretty crisp at 3 lbs.

I took some pic's of the sear and hammer. The sear looks fine, but the left leg of the hammer where it mates against the sear appears to have a small chip towards the top edge. Would this be the cause of my trigger problem?

 

[CeeZer]

That chip wouldn't matter.
Check trigger bar (bow) spring for it to be riding in bar's grooves. You may wanna take grip panels off and while turning gun upside down, look into mag well (with a flashlight).

 

[VanMan]

That chip wouldn't matter.
Check trigger bar (bow) spring for it to be riding in bar's grooves. You may wanna take grip panels off and while turning gun upside down, look into mag well (with a flashlight).

Had a look and I think I the trigger bar spring is ok in the trigger bar grooves. Thanks for the suggestion though. I'm thinking I may take it in for a gun smith to check out. Have you had any work done on your CZ at Reliable or Dlask?

 

[BLACKBRIAR]

I happen to be chasing the same problem. However my issue is with my Taurus Raging Bull revolver. It works fine in double action, but when I #### it and slowly pull the trigger it drops into half #### as with yours. Continuing to pull trigger causes the hammer to fall. If I #### it and aggressively pull the trigger it drops every time, not the greatest for accuracy. In my humble opinion I think it has to do with the hammer/sear interface. If you get an actual diagnosis could you update the thread or PM me. I have no gunsmiths in my area unfortunately.

Thanks,

 

[mrclean]

I don't have a parts list in front of me, but I had a similar issue and it was the "claw" piece that connects the hammer to the trigger bar and it was hitting the underside of the sear group IIRC.

 

[silverfoxdj]

tagged

 

[VanMan]

I don't have a parts list in front of me, but I had a similar issue and it was the "claw" piece that connects the hammer to the trigger bar and it was hitting the underside of the sear group IIRC.

Mrclean, do you mean item number 17? Would I need to stone down the top of the "claw" from the leading edge or evenly across the entire top?

 

[VanMan]

Update, I read about the disconnector being the potential problem in another thread so tore the Shadow apart again to have a look. Sure enough, there were wear marks on the top of the disconnector and the bottom of the ejector housing. I took some pics below. I tried two sessions stoning the top of the disconnector (30 strokes with a medium India stone and 10 strokes with a fine ceramic stone), and didn't feel any difference in the problem.

After each stoning session, I was using a black sharpie to mark and track where the two parts are making contact. Have attached a couple of pics of the wear marks after the last stoning session. Looks like all I've succeeded in doing so far is evening out the contact areas - lol. Have attached some pics below. I think I'm going to leave off stoning it further for now. May give Dlask a call on Monday. I recall seeing that they were a CZ repair center and have heard great things about their 1911's so their gunsmiths must be pretty decent.

The good news is that tearing down the trigger assembly on the Shadow is getting to be really easy for me now. Here's a link to step by step pictures and instructions for a complete detail tear down. http://www.olegnikitin.com/news/complete-disassembly-assembly-of-cz-75-sp-01-shadow#img[gallery]/50/ I found it much easier to follow than some of the Youtube videos I was using before. And it also reassured me that I didn't lose a spring for the RHS Safety Detent. The parts diagram that came with my Shadow shows the RHS detent as a different shape and with a spring.

Also, while I had the hammer out, I found the disconnect to be a little rough in spots so I did a very light polish with a fine stone. Also did a very light stoning of the bottom of the ejector housing where it contacts the disconnector. Between all that and polishing the top of of the disconnector, the single action trigger pull lightened up a couple of ounces, so it's now 2lbs 14oz and pretty consistent.

Here's the bottom of the ejector housing and disconnector before any stoning

Here they are after two sessions of stoning the top of the disconnector. Black sharpie applied and 20 single action trigger pulls to show the wear marks.

 

[Tom 1]

tagged too

 

[Slavex]

I would take it to Reliable or Joe at this point. There is an obvious timing issue related to your disconnector something that a trained smith can probably isolate and fix simply.

 

[r34skyline]

Is this the original trigger system or omega trigger system?

 

[CeeZer]

That's the original trigger system.

Disconnector needs a little bit of material removed from the top front area, disconnector ears need to be beveled a little too.

 

[VanMan]

Thanks Slavex, think I'll try Joe down at Dlask this time. Normally I would do Reliable, but Dlask has some CZ Aluminum grips I wanted to have a look at. And also want to have a close look at one of those Grand Power pistols as well.

@Ceezer, thanks for the suggestions. I do like to tinker and have done trigger work on my Ruger 22/45's, Glocks, and Norinco 1911's. For my CZ Shadow and STI Trojan & Targetmaster, I'll leave any in-depth trigger work to the professionals as I want them to be 100% reliable.

I would take it to Reliable or Joe at this point. There is an obvious timing issue related to your disconnector something that a trained smith can probably isolate and fix simply.

 

[Darren.R]

I had the same problem last year,
Take a small Diamond file to the ears of the disconector
Won't take much to remove the sharp edge maybe 3 or 4 light passes with the file
I haven't had a problem with mine since I did this
I posted a picture on your Facebook post

Cheers

 

[relliott]

Looking at the picture of your hammer hooks, it appears you are only getting sear engagement on the right side. It also looks like both hooks are rounded off and there appears to be a divot out of the left side hook. The rounding off of the hammer hooks will cause the sear to release slightly earlier, before the trigger stirrup can fully clear the disconnector. This can be exacerbated by a loose-fitting sear cage and/or a short sear.

 

[VanMan]

Update - Was able to resolve the problem. I posted on FB and got some advice from Darren and a fellow named Angus Hobdell who might just know a thing or two about CZ Shadows. It seemed like a relatively easy and benign thing to do so I stoned down the bottom edges on the wings of the disconnector as suggested. Took ~.001 off first which seemed to help. Took another ~.001 off and the problem is completely eliminated! No matter how slowly I try to squeeze the trigger in single action, it breaks nice an clean. Have attached some pic's below. The left side pic is the disconnector as stock, the right side after it had been stoned the 2nd time.