CZ527 post corrosive ammo cleaning process?

[baD mR fRosTy]

I like 1 part Simple Green Pro HD to 5 parts water in a spray bottle. Soak the bore and run wet patches through it until they start coming out with very little fouling. Run a couple of dry patches through and follow up with an oily patch. Do the same thing to the gas system (if applicable and bolt face and you should be good to go.

Water is what dissolves the corrosive salts, but a water-based degreasing solution (e.g. soapy water, TSP, Windex, etc.) will do a better job of removing carbon, which may be hiding additional salt.

This answer gets my vote.

You can have all the "expensive cleaning products" in the world, but when it comes to removing the salts created by the firing of the primers in "corrosive" surplus ammo, nothing beats good ole H20...and the hotter it is, the more easily the salts dissolve: basic chemistry. The icing on the cake is definitely the suggestion of the Windex - not just because it removes carbon gunk, but Windex with ammonia because that actually neutralizes the salts in case you don't get it all....hiding as it may in the cracks and crevices.
Oil over top of salt will not always prevent rust. The salt will sometimes retain enough moisture. The Windex with ammonia gets my vote, neutralize the salt, followed by a quick rinse with hot water, and then a regular oil application to follow as per usual.
Still, if one can afford non-corrosive, why not I suppose?

 

[dragonbait]

Because some of us don't go overboard on the paranoia and subsequent cleaning regimen. I hose the barrel, gas system, bolt and receiver with G96 and put the gun away, THAT'S IT. Never any rust. The whole boiling water procedure is completely unnecessary when good cleaning products exist.

Agree with this 100%.

Every time I shoot my SKS, I do a very thorough cleaning with solvent and G96. I have never done the water thing and have never had rust.

 

[tjhaile]

This answer gets my vote.

You can have all the "expensive cleaning products" in the world, but when it comes to removing the salts created by the firing of the primers in "corrosive" surplus ammo, nothing beats good ole H20...and the hotter it is, the more easily the salts dissolve: basic chemistry. The icing on the cake is definitely the suggestion of the Windex - not just because it removes carbon gunk, but Windex with ammonia because that actually neutralizes the salts in case you don't get it all....hiding as it may in the cracks and crevices.
Oil over top of salt will not always prevent rust. The salt will sometimes retain enough moisture. The Windex with ammonia gets my vote, neutralize the salt, followed by a quick rinse with hot water, and then a regular oil application to follow as per usual.
Still, if one can afford non-corrosive, why not I suppose?

The only thing the ammonia in Windex does is function as a cleaning agent, like all of the other products I mentioned. Salts are not neutralized; neutralization is the result of an acid-base reaction. Cleaning corrosive residue, such as potassium chloride, is solely a function of dissolving it so that it can be removed.

 

[AB.boy]

Got out today with my CZ 527, shot Czech surplus and PRVI PSP. The brass cased soft point shot under a half inch at 50 yards getting sighted in and later at 100 yards in the breeze and heat was around the 1.5 inches. With hand-loads I see really good potential here. The steel cased Czech ran 2" groups and slightly under at 100 yards and no issues with hard primers, every one went bang.

As far as clean-up goes I have been using strictly Gunzilla in my SKS for a few years and now 527 and have had no issues.

 

[baD mR fRosTy]

The only thing the ammonia in Windex does is function as a cleaning agent, like all of the other products I mentioned. Salts are not neutralized; neutralization is the result of an acid-base reaction. Cleaning corrosive residue, such as potassium chloride, is solely a function of dissolving it so that it can be removed.

Ahhhh....I stand corrected then (along with about a million others, lol, if this is a "myth", it's a persistent one)...but as I said, nothing beats good ole hot water. I like using Windex as well.
Sorry, but I STILL agree with your answer!
;-)

 

[DAR 701]

A couple of good recipes for the 527 is as follows: Lapua brass, Federal LRP, 25.5 grains of Reloader 7 topped with Sierra .311 125 grain SP. Will shoot under MOA all day long (usually around .750 for 5 shots, had a few clock in just under .450"). Another good recipe is Igman brass, Federal LRP, 26.5 grains of Reloader 7 topped with Hornady .310 123 grain VMAX bullets. Not as tight as the sierra loads, just barely under MOA (most around .900" for 5 shots, some groups down to .750"). This is a max load, work up to it and do not fire through an SKS or VZ58. Exhibits no signs of high pressure in the 527.

 

[ilike22s]

A couple of good recipes for the 527 is as follows: Lapua brass, Federal LRP, 25.5 grains of Reloader 7 topped with Sierra .311 125 grain SP. Will shoot under MOA all day long (usually around .750 for 5 shots, had a few clock in just under .450"). Another good recipe is Igman brass, Federal LRP, 26.5 grains of Reloader 7 topped with Hornady .310 123 grain VMAX bullets. Not as tight as the sierra loads, just barely under MOA (most around .900" for 5 shots, some groups down to .750"). This is a max load, work up to it and do not fire through an SKS or VZ58. Exhibits no signs of high pressure in the 527.

Hmmm! I'll give those a try too. The 500 brass cases I have are headstamped "IK". Probably stick with those as they're plentiful, but everything else sounds like "More fun for me!" I'd definitely like to see better than MOA. 100 yds is usually one inch or bigger right now.
If I can't get any better I may just sell the gun, brass, and dies and move on.