CZ858 Tabbing

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Anpaul

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Hey guys,

Sorry if this question has been answered recently, but does anyone know current forum members or sponsors that are offering tabbing services for 858's? Any idea what they charge?

The most recent threads discussing tabbing services I found were from 2013 and it seems as though many have stopped offering tabbing or are not as active on the forum as they used to be.

Appreciate the input!
 
mikethebike said:
This tabbing is that to stop the gremlin?
Click to expand...

I personally never had a problem even before tabbing, but it seems to depend on the shooter's hold ("limp-wrist" maybe).

Tabbing it is supposed to be a 100% fix, bringing it back to the original military grade reliability which I like.
 
I could give you a very detailed answer on what causes this type of gremlin. So detailed I could write several pages. Keep in mind there are two gremlins for these rifles. If you want the detailed answer then pm me and I'll give it to yea. But to save you a whole bunch of reading, the fix to this issue is a lot easier than a welded bolt carrier tab but the cause of the problem is a lot more technical than limb wristing. You see that tab spring that pushes the sear back up? With the dust cover removed, squeeze the trigger and let go of it, you will see the tab that pushes the sear back up. Well if you have the gremlin right now, its because that tab isn't putting enough pressure on the sear. Remove the sear pin and the sear so you can get easier access to that tab, then bend it up a bit. Put the gun back together. Take it out to be test fired, if the problem continues, bend that tab up again and test fire. It doesn't take much bending but it should be fixed now.

If you want to get the welded tab, do it, its not a bad idea. There's a very good reason why CSA does it to all their rifles. If getting the welded tab is your decision, then don't bend that tab spring up.
 
Mumbles Marble Mouth said:
I could give you a very detailed answer on what causes this type of gremlin. So detailed I could write several pages. Keep in mind there are two gremlins for these rifles. If you want the detailed answer then pm me and I'll give it to yea. But to save you a whole bunch of reading, the fix to this issue is a lot easier than a welded bolt carrier tab but the cause of the problem is a lot more technical than limb wristing. You see that tab spring that pushes the sear back up? With the dust cover removed, squeeze the trigger and let go of it, you will see the tab that pushes the sear back up. Well if you have the gremlin right now, its because that tab isn't putting enough pressure on the sear. Remove the sear pin and the sear so you can get easier access to that tab, then bend it up a bit. Put the gun back together. Take it out to be test fired, if the problem continues, bend that tab up again and test fire. It doesn't take much bending but it should be fixed now.

If you want to get the welded tab, do it, its not a bad idea. There's a very good reason why CSA does it to all their rifles. If getting the welded tab is your decision, then don't bend that tab spring up.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, interesting.
Any insight as to what can cause a specific 858 with the gremlin to only malfunction for one shooter and not others? (first hand observation by me) over the course of ~500 hundres rounds (I know its small sample size). The problematic shooter experienced roughly 1 in 10 gremlin rate whereas other shooters experienced absolutely zero.
 
norlandgeese said:
Thanks for the info, interesting.
Any insight as to what can cause a specific 858 with the gremlin to only malfunction for one shooter and not others? (first hand observation by me) over the course of ~500 hundres rounds (I know its small sample size). The problematic shooter experienced roughly 1 in 10 gremlin rate whereas other shooters experienced absolutely zero.
Click to expand...

I personally think, its got more to do with the sear spring, some become weaker after undetermined use and then the problem starts. Bend them up to retention it and your good to go.
 
Rally guy knows exactly what I'm talking about.

As I said, the problem is a lot more technical than just limbwristing. Unlike the gemlin type 2, the gremlin type 1 can come and go because of many thing. The problem is very intermittent and this is why a lot of people don't understand the problem. I've witnessed people have the gremlin while bench resting the gun but have either less of an issue or no issue while standing. I've also witnessed one shooter not have the issue with the gremlin while another shooter has the issue. I've witnessed the issue be fixed with the addition of a muzzle break and I've witnessed the issue start happening after changing the stock or from something as simple as adding a slip on limbsaver. Finally, I've witnessed the issue happen from a change in ammunition. The whole reason why it happens, and the culprit of this whole problem is.... recoil. The recoil of the firearm is pushing the sear reset tab or spring, I don't know the technical name for it so I just call it a tab spring, down so the sear fails to catch the striker. The bolt carrier is doing its job and resetting the sear after its fired, However, what a tabbed bolt carrier is doing that a non tabbed bolt carrier is not doing is its forcing the reset sear to stay in the reset position until the complete cycle of the action is finished. So bending the tab spring up does fix the issue but the problem is it makes the guns trigger pull heavier. So, if you want the welded tab, do it. The reason why D-Technik (CSA) does it to all their guns is so they can make them with lighter triggers and overall, its an improvement to the guns design even if you don't have the issue at all.
 
Appreciate all the responses on this thread. Great to see some members who are still offering the service. I've followed up accordingly and I'm looking forward to not worrying about the Gremlin!
 
i fixed my photo links in the CZ gremlin thread.... show the process of tabbing.

its #### simple,

1/8 steel 3/4 inch long even with the bottom of the bolt carrier, small slope at the end to facilitate smooth action.
weld small on the inside (couple zaps with mig, preheat the carrier to around 100 degrees C to make it fuse nice without having to build up), die grind if required, 45 degree beveled groove on the outside, fill and grind flush. temper and your good to go.
 
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