DAC 394 (Sig 228 Clone) Kit

quick question... are all the internals SIG parts or were they also made by Dlask?
I wonder if SIG parts could/would interchange?

I believe Dlask only made the frame. The slide, barrel and internal parts were Chinese imports...... And yes, interchangeable with Sig parts to the best of my knowledge.
 
Got mine on Friday. Spent most of yesterday just filing out the magwell, so the mag will drop free. A couple of tight spaces, but it's all patience, ,patience, patience. Hope people will keep posting problems and solutions as they come up, looks like the only hole that I need to widen is for the trigger, the rest looks to fit. Yeah, there's so me slag on the inside of the decocking lever that needs to be smoothed out too. Personally, I think that with a little patient work and some ingenuity, this is going to be a nice piece. The steel seems alright quality, so that's a start. Don't give up! I'm sure most of us have never built a firearm from this level of finishing before, so there's bound to be some issues. I bought it to learn, and I'm doing just that.

I had to open up the trigger pin hole and the sear pin hole ..... here's a pic of the hole sizes I found, and added some info to:
Frame_holes.jpg


I do have a crappy set of metric drill bits, but I would have preferred reamers for this job, but I wasn't going to spend the money :) So I carefully used either the metric bit or a slightly undersized imperial bit where I could get away with it.

4.5mm = 0.1772" -----> #16 drill bit = 0.1770" close enough

4.0mm = 0.1575" -----> #22 drill bit = 0.1570" ( mine didn't need drilling)

3.0mm = 0.1181" ------> #32 drill bit = 0.1160" (#32 a little tight but it worked)

2.0mm = 0.0787" ------> #47 drill bit = 0.0785" (#47 worked fine)
 
After even more and more filing, I've got the mag dropping free and easy, the decocking lever in, moving smoothy and the trigger group in. Not having the same issues as novega with the fit.... so far... I know I'll have questions with the hammer mechanism. Definitely will get the new grips and I'm curious to how a real P228 mag will fit, but this has been educational, frustrating, fun and all kinds of painful. lol Hands and fingers are sore from the filing and filing and filing and filing.
 
Started working on my kit tonight and noticed that the slide will not move all the way back on the frame.

I looked closely at the frame and noticed a raised portion on the right side. It is more than a few thousands of an inch. I have checked the Dlask blueprints on the net and it looks like the top of the frame should be level behind the mag well. Mine is most definitely not. I want to have at it with my swiss files but am wondering if any one else has this problem?

PS if there is anyone in the Durham Region who bought a kit and want's to swap ideas; let me know, please.
 
Started working on my kit tonight and noticed that the slide will not move all the way back on the frame.

I looked closely at the frame and noticed a raised portion on the right side. It is more than a few thousands of an inch. I have checked the Dlask blueprints on the net and it looks like the top of the frame should be level behind the mag well. Mine is most definitely not. I want to have at it with my swiss files but am wondering if any one else has this problem?

PS if there is anyone in the Durham Region who bought a kit and want's to swap ideas; let me know, please.

I just used valve lapping compound on the slide rails including the rear portion of the frame. Courser, then finer grits. After final honing, the rear portion of the frame did have some metal removed, but NOT the entire profile of both sides of the rear frame. In other words the rear frame was not "flush" with the top of the frame - just about half of each outer side of the rear frame had wear-in from lapping.

PS - I did the final filing of the inside magazine "rails" and now Sig 228 mags fit fine.
 
Ran into my first frustrating fit yesterday installing the Locking Insert. Once I got it to fit (after slightly bending the Slide Stop to hug the side of the frame) the Slide Stop wont' move. Not sure if I'll have to file some material off the inside of the frame, or deepen the indentation on the Locking Insert, so the spring will fit.

No issues with the rail at all. Seems to fit just fine.

I've been doing this all by hand so far and I'm really wondering why I stood looking at a Dremel and thought "Nah. I don't need that."

LOL
 
I've been doing this all by hand so far and I'm really wondering why I stood looking at a Dremel and thought "Nah. I don't need that."LOL

:pHoly crap bud, next time that happens give yourself a head slap and buy two. Otherwise your #### will fall off.:eek:

Seriously though, one of the best tools ever invented:D
 
:pHoly crap bud, next time that happens give yourself a head slap and buy two. Otherwise your #### will fall off.:eek:

Seriously though, one of the best tools ever invented:D

It's one of those things I've been meaning to buy for a long time. This is probably the first project that I've taken on that I am really thinking requires it. I was more worried about removing too much material than it taking a long time, but files and grit don't get in those "hard to reach places".
 
I always try to look at each new job or project as a really good excuse to buy a new tool ! :D


Ran into my first frustrating fit yesterday installing the Locking Insert. Once I got it to fit (after slightly bending the Slide Stop to hug the side of the frame) the Slide Stop wont' move. Not sure if I'll have to file some material off the inside of the frame, or deepen the indentation on the Locking Insert, so the spring will fit.

No issues with the rail at all. Seems to fit just fine.

I've been doing this all by hand so far and I'm really wondering why I stood looking at a Dremel and thought "Nah. I don't need that."


LOL





I was having a similar problem with the slide locking lever, but I found a cure !

LockingBlockMilling2_tn.jpg


Lever works good now :) ( I also found I had to give the slide locking lever spring a little more bend than what is shown in the picture for it to work properly. )

LockingBlockMilled_tn.jpg


My next issue with the locking block was that the heel of the trigger was rubbing on the inside of the block and screwing up my DA ...

Lockingblock-triggerinterference_tn.jpg


Lockingblock-triggerinterference2_t.jpg


Again, the milling machine to the rescue ( this could of all been done with a dremel, but I gotta justify the milling machine somehow ! ;) )

Lockingblockinsidemilled_tn.jpg


My progress to date ..... I'm pretty much done with the frame and am happy with all the working within. DA, SA, De-cocking etc all working well.
Next will be final fitting/lapping of the slide to the frame and getting the feed ramp to clear the locking block. ( Work / life etc, getting in the way again :) )

I've also put in an order for a set of grips !! :D (Shown below - product image of grips, and hopefully what mine will look like when I'm done )

28811L.jpg
 
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Joe-Boy

Thanks alot for the pics and the detailed description! I was debating whether or not to file down the inside of the frame, or remove some material from the locking insert. I figured that filing the frame might mess up m fit, so I'll take a little off the insert and see how that works! I'm in a 1 bedroom apt with my wife, so my workbench has been the kitchen table with handtools. Not a real problem, I'm patient. Even took last night off, just to get some perspective, as I've been putting in a fair amount of work on this. I'll get back on it tonight. Also have to get some coarser grit paper and finish the exterior fo the frame. Got the weekend off and the wife is working, so I'll hopefully get it together by next week and then off to the range!
 
Joe-Boy
You're gonna have a real nice pistol when you're done. I can already tell from the pictures!
Question: Have you installed the mainspring yet? If so, do you have any "flex/deflection" in your trigger bar when making your DA pull? Mine is still flexing outwards to the right (away from the hammer) while trying to compress the mainspring :(

Hokus Grey
I started doing all my work at the kitchen table too, then I got "asked" to move my "arms bazaar" outside...apparently my use of the grinder and spray painting was interrupting peoples dinner :p
I actually did 99% of the work outside at the patio table in the backyard. I got lucky, we had a couple beautiful days where the sun was shining and there was a nice breeze, so I ran my extension cord out the backdoor, plugged in the radio and cracked open a case. It's pretty amazing how fast you progress once you get "in the zone". Best of luck....though, you won't need it :)
 
Question: Have you installed the mainspring yet? If so, do you have any "flex/deflection" in your trigger bar when making your DA pull? Mine is still flexing outwards to the right (away from the hammer) while trying to compress the mainspring :(

Yup, during the DA pull the trigger bar deflects inward toward the magwell but doesn't contact the magazine, so I'll live with it for now.
I wondering if anyone with a real Sig could tell us how much deflection occurs in a proper factory part.
 
I just realized that I never got a registration certificate for this pistol kit. Does the transfer cover the registration? That doesn't sound right to me, should Dlask be sending me one, or do I need to call the CFC and notify them that I received the pistol?
 
I just realized that I never got a registration certificate for this pistol kit. Does the transfer cover the registration? That doesn't sound right to me, should Dlask be sending me one, or do I need to call the CFC and notify them that I received the pistol?

Got mine from the CFC in the mail a couple days after I received the gun.
 
I just realized that I never got a registration certificate for this pistol kit. Does the transfer cover the registration? That doesn't sound right to me, should Dlask be sending me one, or do I need to call the CFC and notify them that I received the pistol?

The CFC will send it.
 
A small observation. To clean the frame back to bare metal, I have had better results using a detail sander with a "finger" attachment than with a dremel.

Only left with one low spot from the casting process that will be filled in with JB weld.

Now, does anyone know anywhere in Ontario with some black or even better, stainless colored Duracoat?
 
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I just realized that I never got a registration certificate for this pistol kit. Does the transfer cover the registration? That doesn't sound right to me, should Dlask be sending me one, or do I need to call the CFC and notify them that I received the pistol?

If it makes you feel better, I have a registration certificate and NO gun. I hope the contracted carrier did not deliver it to the wrong house. When they are done their move I will have to call and see if they shipped it out.
 
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