DAMAGE INC. CUSTOM CAMO NEWS.....Air Cure Gun-Kote!!!

My expierience with these and similar products are that they are very rust resistant, but are all very liable to scraping off in abrasive situations,like sheep hunting or backpack hunting in general.

Whatever the formulations, they all scrape off like paint.
 
buckbrush said:
My expierience with these and similar products are that they are very rust resistant, but are all very liable to scraping off in abrasive situations,like sheep hunting or backpack hunting in general.

Whatever the formulations, they all scrape off like paint.
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There is no perfect finish.

Even parkerising and bluing will scrape off the metal when subjected to rough handling.

The parkerising on my Colt 1991-A1 shows signs of wear from holster use, and Idon't shoot it that much.

SKBY.
 
That is true there is no perfect finish, but with finishes like the one we manufacture and the other 3 companies, these finishes offer the ability for ANYONE to refinish their own firearm at home at a LOW cost, and having the capabilities of having a more durable and longer lasting finish than average blueing and parkerizing job and with less equipment. Our finishes and the other companies also offer more flexability in the respects and that you can retouch up certain parts when damaged, without having to refinish the entire gun.
 
Claven2 we have done lots of 870's & NP9s and we finish the magtubes too and everything holds up extrememly well, the best 2 tips for that area are to have a even thickness of spraying and not spray too much, also when reassembling the gun is wipe it down with oil ( we use baby oil) and put lots on the extrememly high wear areas like your mag tube and bolt. Then work the action, if you applied too much it will be tight but keep working it till its smooth. This way any the coating can wear down a little and with the help of the oil there is no damage to the finish(then wipe all oil off with rag).Also with a tiny bit of lube it will cycle smoother than any park job, as Arma-Coat is a smooth finish compared to parkerizing. You especially would notice this on a bolt of a bolt action rifle or on your mag tube. Nice to see pictures when your gun is finished. And hope the info helps.
 
I tried out some of the New A/C Gun-Kote this afternoon.

I did the K-Phos pretreatment last night, waited the advised 15 to 20 mins, then did the first "feather" coat.

I warmed up the parts in front of my portable heater and the G.K. went on really nice.

Clean up was a snap rinsing my paint containers & airbrush with water right afterwards.

You just have to give the G.K. a good stir before using.

It says for a Matte finsh to pre-heat the part to 140 to 160 degress, and for a satin finish to pre-heat to around 120 degress.

I had no problem getting a Matte finish using my portable shop heater.Thin coats are also the key for a nice matte finish.Wait an hour between coats.Heating will speed up the time.

I did 3 light coats the the finish looks great.

I finished up with their clearcoat to protect the finish even more.

I did one of my M14 op rods, my Colt 1991-A1 slide, and a few M14 Mags.Some of the mags I did without heating to see the difference.

I will post some pics of the finished parts is a little while.

SKBY.
 
Skullboy..you need to gear up a kitchen stove like I did. Easy and cheap to do. it works very well with the exception that you can't do barrels at the same time as parts in the oven.
this is due to the high temp needed to heat the "barrel stove" up to 325 for gun kote.
Can't wait to see the pics.
 
Striker said:
Skullboy..you need to gear up a kitchen stove like I did. Easy and cheap to do. it works very well with the exception that you can't do barrels at the same time as parts in the oven.
this is due to the high temp needed to heat the "barrel stove" up to 325 for gun kote.
Can't wait to see the pics.
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I still going to building my oven for regular Gun-Kote.

I have the cabinet partly done.Just need to get the insulation & heating apparatus.:rolleyes:

My Cabinet will allow me to hang 4 barrelled actions/stocks at once (old double school locker).

SKBY.
 
that's the weak link in mine..I can only do one barrel right now..although I just need to add another pipe set up to the other big burner for a second one...
Building this stuff is half the fun...
 
Is this the same company that makes Duraheat ceramic coatings?

If so has any one tried these types, aqnd how do they stand up?

Nice job SB, as usual.
 
recce said:
Is this the same company that makes Duraheat ceramic coatings?

If so has any one tried these types, aqnd how do they stand up?

Nice job SB, as usual.
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Gun-Kote and this new Gun-Kore 1200 are proprietory to KG Coatings.

KG Coatings have specialised in all types of coating for firearms, Machinery, and high heat applications.

IIRC, Dura-Heat might be Lauer Custom Weaponry, the marketers of Dura-Coat.

I am going to do some drop,scratch,throw, solvent tests og the new Gun-Kote on some Coated pieces of metal to see how it hold up.

I have done a .45 slide, M14 oprod, and a few M14 Mags to also test durabilty, and to see how the stuff is to work with.

So far cycling the actions on my Colt & M14 show no wear on the Gun-Koted slide or oprod.But like any finish, there will eventually be some wear.

SKBY.
 
Skullboy said:
Make sure you stir it really well as it tend to settle on the bottom of the container.

SKBY.
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I noticed that with the tan..it was settled out.
I took my Taurus to the range on Tuesday and ran a box through it. There was no wear on the frame rails although there was some on the very back of the frame..but it always wore off there.
Talking with Chris at KG..he said anywhere there is zero tolerance..it will rub off. Which makes sense...
 
You guys have me rather intrigued with this finish. I have an old Norinco 1911 which could stand a face lift.

I have a few questions about the process.

1. Do you have to strip the blueing off before you apply the gun kote?

2. Is it necessary to sand blast the surface or do you just use that pre treatment stuff (K-phos)?

3. Will my wife have a crap if I put it in the oven. I'm referring to odour? She's pretty good about my guns but she doesn't like me to smell up the house.:rolleyes:

If this process is not too labour intensive I'm going to have alot of fun with some other makeover projects.:D
 
Mr AR15 said:
You guys have me rather intrigued with this finish. I have an old Norinco 1911 which could stand a face lift.

I have a few questions about the process.

1. Do you have to strip the blueing off before you apply the gun kote?
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According to their site..if it's parkerized you shouldn't have to. If it's blued then yes.

2. Is it necessary to sand blast the surface or do you just use that pre treatment stuff (K-phos)?
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Yes..they recommend to use 120 grit aluminum oxide (this is what I do). this does 2 things. Removes the blueing and gives the metal a rough surface for the gun kote to bond to.
Don't use glass beads or silica sand as they won't give you a good rough surface. The k-pos is a pre-treatment and prevents the blasted surface from rusting if you have to leave it for a while before coating it.

3. Will my wife have a crap if I put it in the oven. I'm referring to odour? She's pretty good about my guns but she doesn't like me to smell up the house.:rolleyes:
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Let the gun kote air dry before you bake it and the smell isn't to bad. We baked a short piece of barrel in my buddies oven and his wife never noticed any smell.;)
Spray it in a well ventelated area though.

If this process is not too labour intensive I'm going to have alot of fun with some other makeover projects.:D
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It isn't a 3 day job but it isn't a 15 minute job either. Most of your time will be consumed doing the prep work which is the most important.
If you use the 2400 or 1600 series gun kote..preheat the parts to 120 degrees just before you spray the finish on. It prevents the coating from running on you and helps with the bonding process due to the "pores" of the metal being open.
I tried a piece of a rifle cold and it was a heck of a mess.
 
Where does one find the Gun Kote in Canada?

I've just started on a "project" gun, it needs reblueing..so I htought I'd try one of the grey colours of Gun-kote.:)
 
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