Damaged brass

I’d say you are over pressure. If you read on the nosier load data there are construction differences in the E-Tips and you need to work up a load, so basically the load data for them is different. Can’t expect them to have the same loads as the other 150’s, quite dangerous to have the load data like that if you ask me. Especially since these are made from Gilding metal, not pure copper, and no rings cut out to reduce the bearing surface, like Barnes do. I’ve shot ETips before and ran into pressure fast. I have also had pressure issues that you couldn’t see on the primers, definitely with soft brass. I’d say you are high pressure and it’s exacerbated with softer brass.
 
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Well. I was resizing some brass today for my 300 and I noticed this when I went to take my die out after resizing almost 30 brass

20210523_135331.jpg
 

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New problem then. I don't see anywhere in the instructions on how to set that little stem and little locking nut, and is the brass I already ran through there garbage?
 
Probably not a thing wrong with the brass, but you have to look and see for yourself.

The stem and lock nut controls the depth that the de-priming pin feeds through the flash hole, as well as the position of the sizing plug.
As long as the pin is decapping cleanly, and there is no impact damage on the inside of the case at the flash hole, it's all good.

Just my opinion, but with the powdered brass in your bolt face pictures, I would suggest that you want to take a VERY close look at the surface of the ejector pin for any roughness at all. On top of ensuring that the pin can readily retract fully in to the bolt.
If you can find a 10X Loupe, or even higher magnification, it would be about right.

Weatherby brass is expensive stuff, but at some point it'd be abetter than average idea to get a different batch and see if the problems go away.
 
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