Damaged cases.

OP,
STOP limp wristing the 1911 platform & your last round ejected will NOT get slammed/jammed by the slide.

Load ONE round in a mag of your reloads.
insert mag
drop the slide
shoot
does the slide lock back?

Load the same mag w/ your next reload
load ONE round
insert mag
drop the slide
shoot
does the slide lock back?

Next reload
as above

Once you find a reload that cycles correctly....then change 1 part of the equation at a time.

Radius the bottom of the extractor for ease of feeding
Bend/bow the extractor as to NOT allow any movement once installed in the slide.

NEVER drop a round into the chamber & drop the slide since a semi auto pistol is of CRF(controlled round feed)
You will bend/break the extractor if the above technique is used.

Next option would be a heavier rated recoil spring....depending on the weight of projectile that you are shooting.
 
OP,
STOP limp wristing the 1911 platform & your last round ejected will NOT get slammed/jammed by the slide.

Load ONE round in a mag of your reloads.
insert mag
drop the slide
shoot
does the slide lock back?

Load the same mag w/ your next reload
load ONE round
insert mag
drop the slide
shoot
does the slide lock back?

Next reload
as above

Once you find a reload that cycles correctly....then change 1 part of the equation at a time.

Radius the bottom of the extractor for ease of feeding
Bend/bow the extractor as to NOT allow any movement once installed in the slide.

NEVER drop a round into the chamber & drop the slide since a semi auto pistol is of CRF(controlled round feed)
You will bend/break the extractor if the above technique is used.

Next option would be a heavier rated recoil spring....depending on the weight of projectile that you are shooting.

Not sure what you mean by "limp wristing"!

Just googled the term and I assure you I don't think I'm limp wristing at all.
 
I have seen that problem before on 1911s that needed the extractor tweaked for more tension.

HT6dvdj.gif
 
Hi there. Power Pistol is not the best propellant for your 230g plated bullets, or LRNs. FMJs, OK, but 7.2 grains, that’s a lot of powder for a .45 case. I’m guessing you’re getting a lot sharp recoil and your slide is bouncing erratically with that load. Your gun would be undersprung causing the case damage you’ve experienced.
I’d recommend TiteGroup. 5 grains for about 800fps with pretty much all 230 grain bullets. A little TiteGroup goes a long way. Cleanest burning, soft shooting and quite accurate.
If you must and like higher speeds with FMJs, buy a 17lb, Variable Recoil Spring from Wolff Gunsprings.
I wouldn’t stress on the extractor too much aside from making sure it retains the cartridge adequately with the slide test.
1911s are all about timing in relation to the type of rounds used.
With proven magazines and a cleanish gun, you shouldn’t have any reliability issues.

Power Pistol is best suited for 9mm rounds. My second choice for .45 would be Clays Universal. Good luck.
 
Also, I see you have primer strike ignition issues. Might be time to replace the firing pin spring with an extra power one, which you should do with an extra power recoil spring at the same time.
 
. app / near 185 pf ... so not a light load

not a fun target load.

What's the point of shooting a 45 if your reloading mouse-fart load? Might just as well shoot a 22lr...

As for the OP, I still have a hard time believe that the case were NOT damaged by a jam...
To bend/cut the brass, it needs to get caught on something. Simply bouncing around will not do that.
- Only brass I've seen this mangled were from FTE

Like this guy
http://dave2.freeshell.org/1911/extr39/K-TMII_FTF_jam_02.JPG
 
All good points for me to consider and I appreciate all the great feedback. I'm always in the learning curve. I went to get a new extractor today but none in stock aside from adjustable for $133.00 plus tax ( I'm not in the competition stage yet lol ) so a normal replacement is on order for me. Couple weeks at the earliest.

Sillymike... I have no reason to disagree with your statement about the damage not being done by bouncing around the floor ( I'm no genius and even I know that ) but the truth of the matter is aside from what I already stated there is nothing to elaborate on.. if I remember correctly I think it was twice over the 2 trips that I had to manually rack the side because LOADED rounds were jammed at the ramp. Not once did I have to remove empty jammed cases so it's a mystery to me as well.
 
You should try Winchester 231 powder I think you'll be happier. HP-38 is the same powder just in another can.

I use HP-38, and am shooting 200 gr. SWC; accurate and way less damaged brass.

I think you need a new extractor; hold should be very positive. Also, does your pistol have a 1911 GI ejection port, or has it been opened up?

xW7647_SI_3989.jpg


Near photo has been enlarged downward, and has a chamfer on the back edge to facilitate cleaner ejection. With a GI style pistol, you can expect this.
 
I took the slide to the gun store today to have the owner/ smith take a look at the extractor. He tried to adjust it but the results were the same as for me yesterday. The hold was not positive at all and he suggested a new extractor. He didn't have a replacement in stock so said he would order me one. I couldn't afford the new adjustable ones he did have at $133.00 plus tax. My Ruger seems to have a lower cutout ejection port.
 

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I use HP-38, and am shooting 200 gr. SWC; accurate and way less damaged brass.

I think you need a new extractor; hold should be very positive. Also, does your pistol have a 1911 GI ejection port, or has it been opened up?
He stated in the 1st post it was a Ruger SR1911. It should have the enlarged ejection port.
 
A spare extractor is a good thing to have anyway. Follow the advice in the wilson video and don't be afraid to give it a little power. You should be able to hold a loaded round in the thing. I'm now of the opionion that the right tension is the tension that allows for reliable extraction and ejection. All of the gauges, specs and loaded or unloaded cases in the hook are good guidelines maybe but they're not definitive.

Again, go ahead and give your extractor a good bend as shown in the wilson video.
 
All good points for me to consider and I appreciate all the great feedback. I'm always in the learning curve. I went to get a new extractor today but none in stock aside from adjustable for $133.00 plus tax ( I'm not in the competition stage yet lol ) so a normal replacement is on order for me. Couple weeks at the earliest.

Sillymike... I have no reason to disagree with your statement about the damage not being done by bouncing around the floor ( I'm no genius and even I know that ) but the truth of the matter is aside from what I already stated there is nothing to elaborate on.. if I remember correctly I think it was twice over the 2 trips that I had to manually rack the side because LOADED rounds were jammed at the ramp. Not once did I have to remove empty jammed cases so it's a mystery to me as well.

So my suspicions is correct. I had a franken 1911 do that alot.. So I got to notice what the mangled cases looked like.
 
I use the Weigand Extractor Adjusting Tool.

Cylinder & Slide sell a spring steel extractor which apparently retains its tension indefinitely.
 
I got mine directly from Weigand Custom some 25 years ago. Brownells lists them now, but out of stock. These work great with the gauges.
 
I have run into similarly damaged casings in the past. I always narrowed it down to too much recoil spring. Slide comes back too slow to kick out the casing properly and crushes it on the return... I almost always find them still stuck in the slide but not always! Your loads seem like they should be sufficient but if you aren't the original owner maybe a 24lbs spring or something silly is installed.? Depending on many things even 18lbs could cause issues like this. Building .45 Super and Rowland 1911s has presented me with this problem several times.
 
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