Damn screw so tight

JQIAN

JQIAN

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I have a ruger mark iv tactical, great gun.
I wanted to remove right side safety, but that screw is so tight that it's impossible to turn at all.
The manual says use 1/16" hex wrench, so I did but in no avail.
I used a "L" shape wrench, also a screwdriver. But that damn screw just won't budge.
Now I am afraid I may have stripped the screw.
Anyone has similar experience to share?
 
I've been in this situation when I was a Mechanic. I eventually used a hammer screwdriver. It works by hitting the round end of the screwdriver, and the internals use the force of the hammer to shove the screwdriver bit as deep into the slot as possible, and transferring half of the force to turning the bit. I sold all my tools years ago, but maybe someone here, close to you, (you don't indicate where you are) has one they could lend you or help you. Any Gunsmith would have one too. The whole kit is a bit expensive if it's just one screw that's giving you trouble, but there's nothing else like it. Dribble some WD-40 on the screw first.
 
deadman said:
Call your Patek dealer. Anything else is a crap. Sorry guys.
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Your comments reminded me an occasion many years ago that a Rolex guy bragged about his seemingly fancy watch and told me to save up to buy a better one by looking at my low tone Patek.
Yeah, I feel you. It’s crap
 
unlisted.handle said:
I've been in this situation when I was a Mechanic. I eventually used a hammer screwdriver. It works by hitting the round end of the screwdriver, and the internals use the force of the hammer to shove the screwdriver bit as deep into the slot as possible, and transferring half of the force to turning the bit. I sold all my tools years ago, but maybe someone here, close to you, (you don't indicate where you are) has one they could lend you or help you. Any Gunsmith would have one too. The whole kit is a bit expensive if it's just one screw that's giving you trouble, but there's nothing else like it. Dribble some WD-40 on the screw first.
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I bought a coupe of new hex screwdrivers from Brownell and Bondhus coming in today, will try them out to see how it works.
However I am hesitant to use WD-40 on that screw though. I heard lots of bad things about WD-40. Is it really a good idea to use that on a gun? I am afraid the residue of WD-40 may gum up and become sticky.
 
Sounds like you might be dealing with thread locker or trying to turn the "screw" bolt in the wrong direction?

There is an art to dealing with stubborn fasteners and part of it is knowing when to stop brute torquing and try something else..... before you shred the head of the fastener and render it useless.
 
WD-40 is better than nothing. But what you want here is some penetrating oil. I use Kroil when in trouble and regular cheap penetrating oil for ordinary challenges.

I suggest you invest $5 on a can of spray penetrating oil. It can be useful, and unlike WD-40, does not become gummy.

Did you check You Tube for directions? Sometimes there is a trick involved.
 
Ok, I was curious... just watched a youtube video of a guy removing his right side safety on the target model and it looks like it's a normal right tight /left loose thread.... he said it was a bit stiff but it looked easy enough to remove. No way you will be using a hammer style impact wrench on that little screw.... :) Sometimes a bit of impact helps though to jar things loose and as mentioned heat can help as well but it get's tricky impacting or heating very small fastners, you need a tiny punch of some sort or you could just use the allen key itself and tap it straight down on the head.... even better try and get some torque on the allen wrench and then have a second person tap down on it gently to try and break it free. Heat can be applied with the tip of a soldering iron or by heating a long thin piece of steel and transfering it to the head of the fastner... not the easiest but possible.

Good luck!

[youtube]eKdUJTzo-6Q[/youtube]
 
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if the hex wrench has spun its a crap shoot, when in this situation take the next size wrench up may be imperial and stone the end sides slightly tapered, take your time until the wrench just goes in and tap with a hammer or brass, it will snug in the screw now apply turning force and keep tapping, the key will lock into the hex and it should come out.
 
laurencen said:
if the hex wrench has spun its a crap shoot, when in this situation take the next size wrench up may be imperial and stone the end sides slightly tapered, take your time until the wrench just goes in and tap with a hammer or brass, it will snug in the screw now apply turning force and keep tapping, the key will lock into the hex and it should come out.
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I was thinking that too but I am afraid the screw has already been stripped but I am not sure though because the screw is too small that I cannot see.
The manual says 1/16 which is about 1.58mm, so the size in imperial on both side close to this 1/16 is either 1.5mm or 2mm, which neither of them works as I have already tried.
I googled around too and found it is a pretty common issue on the Ruger Mark IV right side safety. Lots of complaints and some guys even sent the gun back to Ruger. But here in Canada it's almost not an option.
I will wait to get my ball-end screwdriver coming today and then find some penetrating oil to work with it.
 
I've used "screw grab" that I bought from Lee Valley years ago..... pretty sure it's some version of valve grinding compound but the grit in the sollution will allow a driver to bite into a partially stripped head.... highly recommended in the tool box of tips and techniques for dealing with stubborn fastners!

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/32212-screw-grab?item=94K0701

As far as warranty support you dealing with Location Snapshot aka "snapper heads" they can be hit and miss to say the least but given that your here online asking for advice and by the sounds of it your half way to "screwed" already.... you should give them a call as you will need a new screw anyways by the sounds of it.
 
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A shot of Krown 53 penatrant
Wait 5 min

I have also done this...
Assuming you have Allen key drivers
Put the key in the fastener
Grip the key as close to the fastener as possible with vice grip
Pushing down on the driver, turn the key with the vice grips

I don’t think I would use a ball end driver
 
Not only just applying heat. You might want to use a heat gun to achieve heat saturation. Using a soldering iron to heat up only the screw may not work as effective as blasting with a heat gun.
 
Throw it in the oven..... :)

Just kidding OP, don't do that!

The idea with heat is to either help by causing a small dimensional shift in one of the materials to "break" the bond or with a to soften threadlocker that may be present.

Did you buy the gun new?
 
unlisted.handle said:
I've been in this situation when I was a Mechanic. I eventually used a hammer screwdriver. It works by hitting the round end of the screwdriver, and the internals use the force of the hammer to shove the screwdriver bit as deep into the slot as possible, and transferring half of the force to turning the bit. I sold all my tools years ago, but maybe someone here, close to you, (you don't indicate where you are) has one they could lend you or help you. Any Gunsmith would have one too. The whole kit is a bit expensive if it's just one screw that's giving you trouble, but there's nothing else like it. Dribble some WD-40 on the screw first.
Click to expand...

That tool is an "Impact Driver" & very common on removing sized screws. Another way is to use a brass punch & hit
the screw head many times with moderate force. Adding penetrating oil over several days while punching each day till
it comes. I spent 10 yrs repairing CAT. equipment & heat is the only other method before drilling the screw out.
 
Can-down said:
Throw it in the oven..... :)

Just kidding OP, don't do that!

The idea with heat is to either help by causing a small dimensional shift in one of the materials to "break" the bond or with a to soften threadlocker that may be present.

Did you buy the gun new?
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Yeah, a brand new gun I bought. Only shot about less than 100 rounds so far.
I have thrown in new firing pin, extractor and trigger. Almost everything I can do without removing that side of the safety.
I want to change out the rest such as hammer, sear and disconnect. But changing out those requires the removal of the safety.

I applied some penetrant as well, and used a couple of high quality hex wrench and screwdrivers. Nothing works. I could feel the grip when turning the wrench, that means the groove inside the screw is still intact, at least partially. But this damn thing just doesn't budge at all.

I am at the edge of giving up now, just live with that.
 
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