Pure Tung Oil is what the arsenals used when treating/finishing new Garand stocks. I like to use it for the same reason, with the same proviso as raw linseed; apply it to the wood, rub it in, let sit for 15-20 mins, and then wipe the excess from the surface so that it doesn't dry on the surface. It is equally good for conditioning stocks. The Dark Raw Tung Oil looks worth a try for initial treatment/staining of a new stock.
Danish Garand Stock clean-up
- Thread starter CanukMauser
- Start date
CanukMauser
CGN Regular
- Location
- Edmonton Alberta
I bought the minwax tung oil so from the sounds of it not too pure.
I checked Crappy tire online they don't list linseed oil at all nor did Lee Valley. Guess I will have to check in person.
So to clarify for the stock in the picture and as per previous posts rub the Linseed oil in followed with the tung oil -pure stuff-?
Also cutting the linseed oil 50/50 with turpintine.
I checked Crappy tire online they don't list linseed oil at all nor did Lee Valley. Guess I will have to check in person.
So to clarify for the stock in the picture and as per previous posts rub the Linseed oil in followed with the tung oil -pure stuff-?
Also cutting the linseed oil 50/50 with turpintine.
Minwax Tung Oil Finish contains a drying agent. I have used this product to refinish stocks, but only as the last step after oil removal/complete stripping and staining. For the stock in the pic I'd just use either raw linseed or pure tung oil. The stock really isn't that dirty. All it needs is cleaning/conditioning. Short of a full stripping and refinishing either raw linseed or pure tung oil, not both, will suffice. No need for turpentine either. Just rub in either of these oils with a rag, let sit for 15 minutes and then wipe the excess oil off the surface of the wood. If you don't like the looks of it afterwards you can then consider a more comprehensive cleaning, stripping and refinishing.
I'm not going to preach the "best" way but I'll tell you what I've learned restoring a couple stocks.
Home hardware has all kinds of wood finishes for restoring antique furniture. I acquired circa 1850 stripper there - soaks up any old stain, removes old oil, safe on the hands, non flammable. Follow that up with steaming for dents/dings stubborn stains.
Boiled linseed oil is the way to go on a military stock unless you have a million years to wait. I thinned mine 50/50 with mineral spirits to speed absorption and promote levelling of the finish. Helps it dry quicker as well.
And when I say quicker, I mean, cuts drying time from 48hrs+ to a more reasonable 24ish.
If you want a quicker more gloss finish try something like Tru-oil, which is also linseed based but more modified. Dries in about 2 hrs with a high gloss.
Buff between coats with scotchbrite pads-- stay away from steel wool. It leaves tiny particles everywhere and embeds itself in the wood. I hate the stuff.
There's my 2 cents. Should be a fun project - be sure to post pictures as you go along, they're fun to see
Home hardware has all kinds of wood finishes for restoring antique furniture. I acquired circa 1850 stripper there - soaks up any old stain, removes old oil, safe on the hands, non flammable. Follow that up with steaming for dents/dings stubborn stains.
Boiled linseed oil is the way to go on a military stock unless you have a million years to wait. I thinned mine 50/50 with mineral spirits to speed absorption and promote levelling of the finish. Helps it dry quicker as well.
And when I say quicker, I mean, cuts drying time from 48hrs+ to a more reasonable 24ish.
If you want a quicker more gloss finish try something like Tru-oil, which is also linseed based but more modified. Dries in about 2 hrs with a high gloss.
Buff between coats with scotchbrite pads-- stay away from steel wool. It leaves tiny particles everywhere and embeds itself in the wood. I hate the stuff.
There's my 2 cents. Should be a fun project - be sure to post pictures as you go along, they're fun to see
hello
i'm working on a swede 1896 with beech... sanded down was lite color like maple ( which looked terrible )
my formula is 3 parts... 1 part natural turpentine, 1 part raw linseed, 1 part Pin tar
put on with rag... let soak for 1/2 hour and rub off
- slather on some the next day... use 600 grit and wet sand litely .... wipe off ... and re-apply and let soak... and wipe/rub off
if it isn't taking and darkening... wipe some on and use a heat gun to warm up surface and let in the solution ( don't burn the wood ) ( also it may raise the grain, needing more wet sanding )
a good pine tar is wonderful stuff and preservative
my 2 cents
i'm working on a swede 1896 with beech... sanded down was lite color like maple ( which looked terrible )
my formula is 3 parts... 1 part natural turpentine, 1 part raw linseed, 1 part Pin tar
put on with rag... let soak for 1/2 hour and rub off
- slather on some the next day... use 600 grit and wet sand litely .... wipe off ... and re-apply and let soak... and wipe/rub off
if it isn't taking and darkening... wipe some on and use a heat gun to warm up surface and let in the solution ( don't burn the wood ) ( also it may raise the grain, needing more wet sanding )
a good pine tar is wonderful stuff and preservative
my 2 cents
[that sounds very interesting.
I find beech wood is a ##### to wok with. My experience with isn't too positive...
Could you please post pictures of your latest work with your "formula"?
QUOTE=dimeN;8796957]hello
i'm working on a swede 1896 with beech... sanded down was lite color like maple ( which looked terrible )
my formula is 3 parts... 1 part natural turpentine, 1 part raw linseed, 1 part Pin tar
put on with rag... let soak for 1/2 hour and rub off
- slather on some the next day... use 600 grit and wet sand litely .... wipe off ... and re-apply and let soak... and wipe/rub off
if it isn't taking and darkening... wipe some on and use a heat gun to warm up surface and let in the solution ( don't burn the wood ) ( also it may raise the grain, needing more wet sanding )
a good pine tar is wonderful stuff and preservative
my 2 cents[/QUOTE]
I find beech wood is a ##### to wok with. My experience with isn't too positive...
Could you please post pictures of your latest work with your "formula"?
QUOTE=dimeN;8796957]hello
i'm working on a swede 1896 with beech... sanded down was lite color like maple ( which looked terrible )
my formula is 3 parts... 1 part natural turpentine, 1 part raw linseed, 1 part Pin tar
put on with rag... let soak for 1/2 hour and rub off
- slather on some the next day... use 600 grit and wet sand litely .... wipe off ... and re-apply and let soak... and wipe/rub off
if it isn't taking and darkening... wipe some on and use a heat gun to warm up surface and let in the solution ( don't burn the wood ) ( also it may raise the grain, needing more wet sanding )
a good pine tar is wonderful stuff and preservative
my 2 cents[/QUOTE]
Hi
ok my pic are just from my phone
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e396/dimenickel/M1896/20130616_102726_zps6729da7b.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
[/URL][/IMG]
pic's not so good but you get the idea... the wood was very whitish almost like maple ... there was some grease stains/oil that has bleed right into the stock... had to leave those
-dry cracks here and there... use a very thin super glue from leevalley called special T .... fill up crack and it'll seep in nicely...do it several times then sand flush ( it'll look like glass )
only 5 applications of the 3 part solution on this stock.... with 2 day wait inbetween applications
the pine tar is vet stuff i picked up at tractor supply... its not as good as the good stuff i usta have.. but damm hard to get the swedish stuff
ok my pic are just from my phone
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e396/dimenickel/M1896/20130616_102726_zps6729da7b.jpg
pic's not so good but you get the idea... the wood was very whitish almost like maple ... there was some grease stains/oil that has bleed right into the stock... had to leave those
-dry cracks here and there... use a very thin super glue from leevalley called special T .... fill up crack and it'll seep in nicely...do it several times then sand flush ( it'll look like glass )
only 5 applications of the 3 part solution on this stock.... with 2 day wait inbetween applications
the pine tar is vet stuff i picked up at tractor supply... its not as good as the good stuff i usta have.. but damm hard to get the swedish stuff
CanukMauser
CGN Regular
- Location
- Edmonton Alberta
Found raw linseed oil at Home Hardware. One of the few places that seems to have it.
Rubbed 3 coats on letting it dry a day inbetween coats. The wood was thirsty! It sucked the first coat in in less then 15 - 20 mins. Darkend up a bit and made the wood grain show nicely.
I really like the grain in the stock I wish the handguards had the same grain but no go. Cleaned the rifle really good and followed all the greaseing instructions to the letter. The action cycles like glass now.
The butt plate is pretty beat up need to find a line on a good one. Don't really want a repo. Also want a sling but by the e-bay prices a repo may be the way to go for that.
Checking the born on dates with a serial number of mine starting at 225 looks like a Dec of 43 receiver.
Now I just need to get some range time. I was looking at Garand Gears ported gas plug. Any opinons?
http://www.garandgear.com/m1garand/detail/33-springs-and-things/flypage/75-ported-gas-plug?sef=hcfp
Rubbed 3 coats on letting it dry a day inbetween coats. The wood was thirsty! It sucked the first coat in in less then 15 - 20 mins. Darkend up a bit and made the wood grain show nicely.
I really like the grain in the stock I wish the handguards had the same grain but no go. Cleaned the rifle really good and followed all the greaseing instructions to the letter. The action cycles like glass now.
The butt plate is pretty beat up need to find a line on a good one. Don't really want a repo. Also want a sling but by the e-bay prices a repo may be the way to go for that.
Checking the born on dates with a serial number of mine starting at 225 looks like a Dec of 43 receiver.
Now I just need to get some range time. I was looking at Garand Gears ported gas plug. Any opinons?
http://www.garandgear.com/m1garand/detail/33-springs-and-things/flypage/75-ported-gas-plug?sef=hcfp
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
Epps had the nice Danish web slings a while ago for like 15 or $20. I have one on my Breda and love it.
