DD Rails - Omega vs. Lite vs. RIS

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blackout

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Looking at doing a midlength 14.5 with a DD 12.0 rail, just comparing the options from Daniel Defense. Can anyone explain to me what the main differences are between the Omega/Lite and RIS other then the way they mount to the upper receiver?

And, if anyone has any pictures of this specific setup(14.5/12) using either one of these rail systems or maybe even a rail from another company please post them up for reference. Cheers.
 
I had a 14.5 with 12.0 Lite setup last year. PM me with your email address and I can send you pics since I'm using an iPhone atm. I am not 100 % sure, but I believe all of the rails you mentions use similar variations of Daniel Defenses bolt-on or bolt-up design, I can't remember the name. IMO, you can't go wrong with any of those choices, DD rails are all great.
 
If I read into it correctly:

The Omega uses the factory AR15 barrel nut with a unique free float clamp system.

The Lite is a lightweight rail using the Bolt-up alignment system and has no removable bottom handguard section.

The RIS uses the same bolt-up system but has a removable bottom section so you can use an M-203 grenade launcher.
 
They have different profiles as seen below.

DD_Rail_pro.gif


The RIS II is a 2 piece rail, allowing for military's to mount a grenade launcher. This also allows the operator to clean the rail/ barrel area easier.
The RIS II mount is the most secure, and has anti rotation tabs.

Omega Rails are easier to install, but not as durable as the Lite and RIS II.

Lite rails use the same bolt up system as the RIS II, but lacks the anti Rotation tabs, as well as being one piece.
 
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Hilo71 said:
They have different profiles as seen below.

DD_Rail_pro.gif


The RIS II is a 2 piece rail, allowing for military's to mount a grenade launcher. This also allows the operator to clean the rail/ barrel area easier.
The RIS II mount is the most secure, and has anti rotation tabs.

Omega Rails are easier to install, but not as durable as the omega and RIS II.

Lite rails use the same bolt up system as the RIS II, but lacks the anti Rotation tabs, as well as being one piece.
Click to expand...



Thanks for that info, it was very helpful. Is it possible to add the anti rotation tabs that the RIS has to the lite rail or is that proprietary to that rail system? What benefit would those tabs provide? Are they really necessary? Has anyone experienced any problem with the lite rail or with the rail breaking lose over time or fitment issues over time?
 
As long as the lite rail is aligned properly and installed with correct torque values it "should" never have an issue. Then again, I have seen some rails torqued too hard and come out of alignment. This causes the obvious issue of fracked sight alignment, but also causes the barrel nut to loosen, requiring and entire reinstall of the rail and barrel nut. rare, but it does happen. If you are going to shoot more than a few thousand rounds a year, and run some tactical courses I suggest the RIS II. SOCOM chose it for a reason.
 
Hilo71 said:
They have different profiles as seen below.

DD_Rail_pro.gif


The RIS II is a 2 piece rail, allowing for military's to mount a grenade launcher. This also allows the operator to clean the rail/ barrel area easier.
The RIS II mount is the most secure, and has anti rotation tabs.

Omega Rails are easier to install, but not as durable as the omega and RIS II.

Lite rails use the same bolt up system as the RIS II, but lacks the anti Rotation tabs, as well as being one piece.
Click to expand...

Agree. The Omega attachment system is pretty lame.

I have an Omega, and light rail.

Get the light rail.

GC
 
blackout said:
Thanks for that info, it was very helpful. Is it possible to add the anti rotation tabs that the RIS has to the lite rail or is that proprietary to that rail system? What benefit would those tabs provide? Are they really necessary? Has anyone experienced any problem with the lite rail or with the rail breaking lose over time or fitment issues over time?
Click to expand...

The Light and RIS II can't rotate if installed properly. First off, unlike other barrel nuts ( like std mil, Larue, KAC FF ( not URX ), PRI etc you need to index so gas tube can pass through. The Light and RISII you do not. Therefore no excuse not to have the 50 to 75ft lbs or exactly what you want

The rail is then sandwiched around the barrel nut with 6 "Bolt Up " capscrews. There is no way it can rotate, and if it does , your barrel nut was too loose

In additon, overtightening a Light / RIS II cannot result in loosening of the barrel nut . It will just result in deforming "bolt up plate" . Even if you do that ( 30in/lbs is the spec ) it won't really put the rail out of alighment. DD M4 rail you can do that since you countertorque the barrel nut when you are tightening the rail. Since you are looking at the Lite / RIS don't worry about this

One trick is you should find a picatinny rail block or one piece scope mount that you can use to align the flat top to the top of the rail. Makes it much easier

Buy yourself a ball head 5/32 allen key if you think you will have to do this more than once. Helps prevent scratching the crap of out of your reciever if you

Lastly, some billet upper recievers will prevent the installation of the "bolt up plates"
 
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I have both the omega and omega x rails. The omega has been on my 3 gun rifle for 3 years and has not come loose being tossed around. For range use it is more than adequate.
 
Would recommend going with daniel defense its the next rail system the US is buying for their rifles and is probably (along with larue) one of the best systems you can get. Have it on my core15 and works perfect no wobble or issues.
 
I have the Daniel DEfense M4 rail, similar to the LArue rail.

If you can source one of those Id say do it.

Downside is that t does not give you that monolithic look, but it is solid as hell.
 
TRG-42 said:
The Light and RIS II can't rotate if installed properly. First off, unlike other barrel nuts ( like std mil, Larue, KAC FF ( not URX ), PRI etc you need to index so gas tube can pass through. The Light and RISII you do not. Therefore no excuse not to have the 50 to 75ft lbs or exactly what you want

The rail is then sandwiched around the barrel nut with 6 "Bolt Up " capscrews. There is no way it can rotate, and if it does , your barrel nut was too loose

In additon, overtightening a Light / RIS II cannot result in loosening of the barrel nut . It will just result in deforming "bolt up plate" . Even if you do that ( 30in/lbs is the spec ) it won't really put the rail out of alighment. DD M4 rail you can do that since you countertorque the barrel nut when you are tightening the rail. Since you are looking at the Lite / RIS don't worry about this

One trick is you should find a picatinny rail block or one piece scope mount that you can use to align the flat top to the top of the rail. Makes it much easier

Buy yourself a ball head 5/32 allen key if you think you will have to do this more than once. Helps prevent scratching the crap of out of your reciever if you

Lastly, some billet upper recievers will prevent the installation of the "bolt up plates"
Click to expand...

When you say some billet uppers will prevent installation of the bolt up plate, do you know if I would experience the problem with the Vltor MUR upper? The bolt up plate is the section of the rail that holds the 6 allen key bolts, is that correct or is this a seprate part? Is the bolt up plate required?

Sorry if these questions sound noobish but I want to make sure I am understanding.
 
Also does anyone have any pictures of this setup? 14.5 with 12.0 rail they could share with me. Any recommendations for low profile gas blocks, is there any one that is better then the rest or are they all generally the same?

Appreciate all the replies thus far.
 
blackout said:
When you say some billet uppers will prevent installation of the bolt up plate, do you know if I would experience the problem with the Vltor MUR upper? The bolt up plate is the section of the rail that holds the 6 allen key bolts, is that correct or is this a seprate part? Is the bolt up plate required?

Sorry if these questions sound noobish but I want to make sure I am understanding.
Click to expand...

No problem with Vltor Mur ( actually a forged upper . The billets were the 1st gen ones )

As you can see from the pic, the top is a Billet Sun Devil, middle is a Larue Billet and the bottom is a Vltor Mur

You can see the bolt up plate sandwiching the barrel nut. It comes with the rail . Don't forget to slide it on first ! I've managed to torque a barrel nut down without installing bold up plate on more than one ocassion

3bottomview.jpg


You can see how much fatter the Sun Devil is ( bottom ). This will interfere with the bolt up screws

topview.jpg
 
blackout said:
Also does anyone have any pictures of this setup? 14.5 with 12.0 rail they could share with me. Any recommendations for low profile gas blocks, is there any one that is better then the rest or are they all generally the same?

Appreciate all the replies thus far.
Click to expand...


Just buy whatever low profile gas block you can find

The two set screw style are all kinda the same. This would include but not limited to the Noveske ( Vltor ) , Vltor , Badger Ordnance , PRI etc . Many barrels are pre dimpled for the set screw. I tend to use the Vltor and Badger one

These are easy to pin

The three screw Brownells , Midwest Industries are uncessarily long. Not my 1st choice

If you want clamp on two screw then the Vltor clamp style is a good choice

If you want clamp on to cover the "scar" from removing a FSB , then the Daniel Defense is nice. Since barrel is parkerized after FSB is installed, removing it leaves bare metal. The DD covers that up
 
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