Dear lord my mark ii FV-sr is very torque sensitive

stoop14

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Picked up a FV-sr in a boyds tacticool stock off a fellow gun nut, had it out Thursday and 1/2 moa at 50 yards was the norm with cci sv, anyways I took it out of the stock last night to play with the trigger, put it back together and took it out today and it was shooting 2" groups at 50 yards. I managed to get it back to just under a inch, but packed her up. Anyone have this setup and what's your action screw torque settings at?
 
There are some threads on this over at rimfire central.
I have mine set to around 10in/lbs but haven't experimented with that variable yet.
 
Would thicker bottom metal keep the stock from cracking by spreading it over the wood more? Where the thin OEM just caves in and puts all the pressure on that one spot? Going to run me 150$ to get a gun smith to pillar bed it. This was suppose to be cheap fun, so I dunno if I'll do it.
 
A thicker mag plate might help a little bit i have one on mine and its not enuff im going to pillar bed mine but havent got around to ut yet. Maby try doing it yourself might be a good project for you. When i had the synthetic stock on mine it shot way better because i could get way more torque on it.
 
Pillar bedding is also a job you can do yourself, if you're handy, and careful. I did my CZ 453 Varmint by myself, and later my Anschutz 1712, too. Some cheap lamp post pillars and Devcon did the trick quite nicely. I just followed this page at the 6mmbr site, and it worked out great. As long as you're extremely careful with your release agent application and about not overlooking any potential mechanical locks, your action will come out of the stock just fine after it's cured. ;)

http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

I took some crappy video as I went along, too, heh. (Yes, I was extremely nervous about doing the job myself, haha.)

http://youtu.be/R6Km5TP0mIs

Of course, if you don't want to brave it yourself, the rate the gunsmith quoted doesn't sound too bad. At least it would be his problem if something goes wrong.
 
Would thicker bottom metal keep the stock from cracking by spreading it over the wood more? Where the thin OEM just caves in and puts all the pressure on that one spot? Going to run me 150$ to get a gun smith to pillar bed it. This was suppose to be cheap fun, so I dunno if I'll do it.

Thicker bottom metal can't hurt (I made mine myself, out of 1/8" plate steel). Savage advises that lots of torque on the action screws is a BAD thing, which is why they make the bottom metal thin in the first place. I'm not sure I buy that, but I know that mine shoots well under 1/2 MOA at 50 yds. consistently, and I've never torqued my screws (even though I've had the action out several times). I just do the screws up snug with an allan wrench, then add in 1/4 turn - exactly the same on both screws. That's it. Don't know the torque value, but it ain't much. I suspect many people get into trouble by trying to torque too much, putting unequal pressure on the receiver between the two screws.

Considering that Savage advises that very light torque is all that's needed....
 
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