Decisions Decisions

Not sure you are a quick learner at all, this is a little mmmmmmmmmm silly for a first purchase, I would recommend contacting some of the folks at the range or ranges that you think you would like to shoot IN THE DISCIPLINES you wish to pursue, way too much money for a first rifle, i can htink of many rifles for 3500 or so that will get you all you can handle, what did your friends say that let you shoot thier rifles
Jefferson

Well, I can certainly see where you are coming from, and if there is someone in Timmins with a cache of precision rifles that would let me test them out to see all of my own personal preferences that would definitely be ideal. However I at this point do not know that person or place. 2nd note is that for me anyways it is a 7hr drive to the precision matches, so to wait until... http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?877693-ORA-Precision-Match-Dates-for-2013, May 5th to find out what I like and then order would mean I would miss at least half the competitions if not all of them for this year. Sure I'd get 100% exactly what I like, but I'm betting between the higher-end options it's a lot of personal preference nit-picking and in all reality they're all pretty damn good.

As far as other friend's rifle, well they were hunting rifles and use them for such a purpose, for reference with standing sling shooting I was about 80% hit rate on a 8.5x11 peice of paper at proly ~75 yards, which was pretty much all we did the rest was clay shooting. All of which was a blast.

This. You'll find out that each discipline has it's own "best practices" and rules as far as component choice, etc. and it may not suit the type of shooting you end up liking. "Buy once, cry once" is a philosophy that I also subscribe to, but you'd be doing yourself a disservice by not taking the time to really research what you need to excel in whatever forms of shooting you choose.

Again, I get that real world practice and having a legitimate personal opinion would be ideal, I just don't think at this point anyways, its feasible timing wise, and that after enough scouring for internet opinion, between this and a few months of lurking on various sites, I should be able to make a fairly educated decision on what to buy, in order to be able to compete this year.


If you are only interested in shooting Precision Matches you can use a muzzle break. For TR/F Class matches the muzzle brake has to come off.
Like Jefferson says get out to a few practice dates and or matches and see what the guys are shooting.
You can build a custom rifle and still come out cheaper.

This is a great comment, things I didn't know. I am currently interested in precision matches, not that I have shot in either, but at least to me precision matches seem more interesting than F class. However getting something that is flexible enough to compete in both could be a wise decision if I do infact change my mind down the road. But I figure that I'll probably only have enough vacation to go and compete in the precision matches at least for a couple years.

What type of competitions are you thinking about in the ORA with 20" barrels?
How many ORA matches have you attended?

I have attended Zero competitive rifle matches, and intend on competing in the ORA precision matches.

Each rifle has its appeal but all are what I'd call tactical type rifles. I am also a fan of AE stocks ( though not the newer AX ) so I understand you want that. With respect to option 1 you will likely wish to rebarrel and that will be an additional part and smithing cost so you should think on that issue. As far as being competitive, in a tac rifle match all could be OK ( option 2 and 3 for sure ) but if you are looking at F/TR you will be a bit disappointed even if you make weight. Notwithstanding which of 1 2 or 3 you pick I wouldn't choose the optics you have chosen and recommend more thinking about that.

Definitely a good point with option 1 on the rebarrelling, by the time I add a bolt handle, brake, new barrel I'm certainly getting up to the price of the custom peirce action. So perhaps I may be inclined to rule that option out so far. Again, great point with bringing up being able to compete in F class as well.


I got my popcorn here too buddy, I expected some flak on this one aswell.

X2 you need to figure out what it is that you want to do and then narrow it down from there. These choices seem like you looked up some stuff on the net that looked cool. Totally agree on the optics too. Cheaper rifle perhaps but better optics.

Well as far as getting out and getting real world experience, see posts above. While these choices are definetly ones that I looked up on the net, and are also ones I think are really cool. I picked these as they are somewhat three different tiers of rifles all with the same coolness to me, which as much as I'm buying it compete, everyone wants cool #### too. As far as the hdmr, it seems like a great value to me, with a great reticle, it seems that the next step up is a solid 35% price increase to around the 2 grand mark and I wasn't sure that the cost/benefit ratio was there.


The optics decision seems to be one that people have taken some critique on. For those of you that disagree, what would you purchase instead?
 
OK, so you're young, rich, hopefully single, wanting to take the plunge into LR shooting and completely prepared to trade off money versus time-to-delivery. I can easily relate and sympathize (though I have to look back a few years to see myself in the same place).
BTW, fair warning, you're not going to 'cry once'. Even if you buy really good expensive gear that you are happy with and keep for life, you're going to buy more gear in the future and (financially) cry many more times. Not that there's necessarily anything wrong with that...
All three of your picks indicate to me that you're interested in a high-ish end, off-the-shelf short to mid range sniper rifle or whatever p.c. term you might prefer. They'll do a great job shooting from 20m to 600m, and if you have them you might as well also shoot them at matches out to 1000 yards too however there are a few changes you might make if you wanted to position yourself a bit better for the 1000 yard end of things.
Unless you have good reason to do otherwise, I'd suggest you build your rifle with an eye to it being legal and competitive in both "Precision Rifle" matches as well as F/TR matches.
After you've spent the summer doing as much shooting as you can with the ORA, I would suggest you plan on shooting one or more national championship match in Ottawa in late August or early September. A wonderful thing about fullbore rifle shooting is that you do not need to 'qualify' to shoot national matches - if you are interested and motivated, you just go, and you do it. There's the 3-day F-Class National Championship held 15-17 August and there is the National Service Conditions matches 29 Aug - 7 Sept, part of which is a two or three day sniper rifle component.
I would recommend against your "Choice 1" as currently written. It seems to be missing a good barrel and therefore by implication is using a Remington factory barrel. For the kind of money you are looking at spending, you should absolutely demand and expect a proper match barrel. There are many good makers (Krieger, Broughton etc), they're all about the same price ($500-ish for a blank), as soon as you are looking to spend $2000+ on a purpose-built target rifle you absolutely must have a match barrel.
Your "Choice 2" seems fine. You might consider choosing a 26", 28" or 30" barrel if you are willing to trade off length and toteability for (somewhat) better 600m+ performance. And maybe, choosing a 1-11" twist barrel instead of a 1-10" (depends what bullets you might like to shoot).
Your "Choice 3" is pricey though it is a wonderful and a good rifle. The delivery time might rule it out.
You might want to consider getting a custom rifle built. You don't have time to waste, but it's not necessarily out of the question yet.
Do you currently load ammo? Are you willing and interested in loading ammo, or would you prefer instead to just pay up and buy ammo? For shooting out to 600, commercial match ammo is fine (though pricey). For shooting at 1000y it is quite challenging to get good enough commercial ammo (it does exist, but most commercial match ammo is not competitive at 1000y).

Lot of info here I'll try and address it in order, thanks for such a detailed reply.

I am definitely young, well off... yeah, rich no.. single? No, though I can see what you're driving at there. Definitely hitting dead on with the time/money/return comment, I really want to know for sure when I make a mistake, no excuses with these rifles. Definitely hear what your saying about this not being my last firearm, but I hate replacing things that aren't good enough in the first place.

Good points again about being able to compete in both disciplines, after this point coming up repeatedly, some suggestions on what to change to be competitive for both? Even though, again I'm not sure about F Class.

Didn't know about the DCRA :S but that is a very interesting looking match, I'd love to see where I'm able to rank nationally after a summer of shooting haha.

Choice 1 again coming up as a poor decision, inclined to strike it off the list here shortly. Good points again for choice 2, I can see how the extra length would help with F-Class, but the portability is definatley a trade-off, i have a small car, and want to travel back and forth between home and practice sessions on a bike to really make a day out of it, so im not sure on the extra length. Choice 3 is gorgeous, and honestly if it was something i could get in a couple weeks, i'd of proly already made my decision, im having a hard time knowing I could miss out on a summer of shooting just waiting for it to get in.

As far as reloading goes, I want to make this into a hobby so the added benefit of precision from reloading is ideal, and something amusing to do on down days. I dont have a setup yet, but its coming after I make this decision. Might shoot some commercial ammo for a bit while I'm practicing up but it's definitely something I'm getting into as well.

For the kind of money you are willing to spend I would look at doing a custom build for sure, not some off the shelf rig that everyone has, contact Peter at Hirsch Precision he will help you out and get you a real nice rig. As said above though you might want to consider a longer barrel and better optics.

The pierce action build was one quoted out by North Shore Barrels, who seem to have a good reputation and has been great to deal with so far, and are relatively local an added bonus. So if i'm going custom it'll be with him, but thanks for the suggestion.

Well, I'm just wondering what blacktemplar thinks. He's logged in without a word to some very important advise and questions.
I've seen this exact scenario before a few times.
Young man with money buys top of the line tactical rifle.
Did his research via the internet and shows up with rifle to the range for the first time.
Proceeds to get frustrated as to why the equipment isn't working to spec.
Observes everyone else hit the bullseye with their rifles while he struggles.
Packs up and never seen again.
The last part is the hardest thing for me to watch. Please blacktemplar, don't get too far ahead of yourself.
Spend your money wisely on something well planned.
You will always get lots of advise on getting tactical rifles here at CGN and nothing wrong with that if that's all you want.
Many buy those rifles just to have them to look cool and we never get any range reports from them.
You did mention you will compete in the ORA, so don't limit yourself unless all you want is just the "Precision Matches" section only like maynard said.
That's a lot of dough just for the small part of the ORA.

Well sorry for the delay, but I work early so I was a bit late to respond. I too am weary of the situation you speak of, but I also understand that there are two variables here equipment and the equipment operator. Of which one varies a lot more than the other. But unless you can distinguish between the two errors, it hard to know which to improve. If I invest in quality equipment it allows me to focus on solely one variable, I don't expect to perform well out of the box, I just expect to know that its me.

As far as range reports go, if this proves to be an engaging, rewarding forum to be a part of then I see no reason why you wouldn't get those reports. As far as just the precision matches, yes it is a lot of money, but its not the cheapest sport to get into either, and as I mentioned before it is my intention to just compete in precision matches, mainly because of the distance it takes to travel to compete, if I lived next door, then yeah why not compete in F-class, but i'm not sure about it right now.

Some of the advice you are getting in this thread is coming from some of the best, most competitive shooters in the country, and none are particularly excited about your choices. This might suggest that you need to start over.

Well I started this to get valuable feedback, hopefully from the best, most competitive shooters as you mention. I gave them a starting block to work from, I don't think I need to start over but rather let this take me where it may.

See Below.

No love for Engineers or what?

Ditto.... And why the bushnell? Your obv not shy To spend the coin on gear

It honestly seems like a good choice to me? I'm not convinced the step up from this gets me that much more.

Hi all - it's pretty easy to misunderstand people on the Intertubes.
How about cutting everybody, especially the OP, a little slack and be a bit generous with the benefit of the doubt?

Its certainly easy to get caught up in absolutes on the internet, don't worry I'm taking things with a grain of salt, a little bit a slack and relaxing is always good. This is after supposed to be fun right?

OP - another idea may be to buy something like a Sako TRG with 20" barrel and a Savage F Class rifle. Cost will be competitive with what your options price out to be and the Sako TRG will be an outstanding ( and cool-looking ) tactical rifle while the Savage F Class will be an excellent rifle with which to compete at matches. .308 is a relatively easy load to develop and is a fun round to shoot. While I don't normally recommend using one scope for two applications you may in this case consider a NF NXS 8-32 which will be tactical enough for the Sako and adequate for the early years of F class competition.

Sakos are definitely more available than AI's and would rule out the delivery issues which is nice, but I was really looking for something portable and the foldability of the AIs will allow me to bike comfortably to shoot which is a bonus. Besides that although Sakos are nice for sure, I just like the look of AI's better personally and yes there is a cool component in this decision admittedly. As far as getting two rifles, eventually maybe but not after the bat, TRGs aren't exactly cheap either. Is the extra ~600-800 dollars really worth it for the NXS?
 
I remember a new shooter that used to come out to ORA events. He had talked to "some guy", that "knew a guy" that knew all about long range shooting. He told him that he needed an AI in .300 WM to shoot 1000 yards. $8000 later the guy found out the range that he likes to shoot at was not templated for .300 WM. Not only that but he found out guys shooting .308 and .223 where kicking his butt. Haven't seen that guy in about 10 years now. The moral of the story is... find out for yourself what guys are shooting and winning with. Throwing big bucks into a rifle just because it looks cool won't win matches. You can be competitive for much less than you are willing to spend.

I am pretty sure the precision matches could be shot with a single shot bolt rifle, and F Class matches only allow single loading.
 
I remember a new shooter that used to come out to ORA events. He had talked to "some guy", that "knew a guy" that knew all about long range shooting. He told him that he needed an AI in .300 WM to shoot 1000 yards. $8000 later the guy found out the range that he likes to shoot at was not templated for .300 WM. Not only that but he found out guys shooting .308 and .223 where kicking his butt. Haven't seen that guy in about 10 years now. The moral of the story is... find out for yourself what guys are shooting and winning with. Throwing big bucks into a rifle just because it looks cool won't win matches. You can be competitive for much less than you are willing to spend. I am pretty sure the precision matches could be shot with a single shot bolt rifle, and F Class matches only allow single loading.

Well, certainly a good story, if you want to talk me down from where I'm at, I'm all ears, realistically, at a basic level, all I really personally want is an AI Chassis, I've liked them for a lot longer than I've been into firearms (Note: Video Games... I know), and they aren't that much more than getting a different adjustable stock and detachable box magazine system, so with a AI Chassis as a basic requirement, what would you build that would be competitive for less? unless dbms and stocks are cheaper than I remember and that was where you intended on saving money.

Also as a reminder, Precision matches was what I'm intending on competing in, in timed stages single loading would assumedly be a disadvantage.
 
If you visit here enough, you will find a group of us that compete and have done very well using all manner of gear. Some NOT expensive. It boils down to understand the task AND using the right tool for that task.

You have listed three project rifles all with interesting pros and cons BUT no end use defined. "maybe try this, maybe try that".

Would you build a race car then figure out if you can play at the local track? I don't mean to be condescending but as an engineer I am sure you are all aware of working from the end goal to the parts and process needed to achieve project goals.

So before you worry about the parts and bling, define the task and/or sport. WHEN you decide how the rifle will actually be used, it will take a couple of minutes to get a grocery list of parts and options THAT WILL WIN AT THE GIVEN TASK. There is nothing you can ask that we haven't either built, used or given up on.

Debating the pros and cons of various forks is fun and we do that all the time, but it really is a waste of time if you are trying to drink soup.

1) ANY rifle that has to perform at its peak needs the best barrel installed properly - there are many ways to achieve this but the end results IS the same.
2) It must be packaged in a stock that fits the shooter and appropriate to the task. Just because the last match winner wears a size 10 shoe doesn't mean that is the choice for a size 12 foot.
3) The trigger must be of a quality to allow for precise pulls - lighter is almost always better unless defined by rules.
4) The optics must allow for the best visual information wrt to the task - high mag may not be the answer, and neither maybe a red dot
5) The feeding system must comply with the task, rules and be flawless.
6) Ammo loaded to best perform in the system above. There are zillions of right answers as it depends on your needs.

Budget needs to be "enough". many of us compete and win with far more humble budgets because we apply our resources to where it matters. Some stuff MUST be pricey, a whole lot may not be.

Right now, the best thing you can do for yourself is start shooting. And I mean thousands of well aimed dedicated fire at the target of choice at the distances desired. I guarantee you that a shooter with meager skills and a mega dollar rifle is not going to beat an experienced shooter with great wind doping skills even if the rifle is "less accurate".

As several experienced shooters have indicated, we see many new shooters jump on the latest greatest band wagon and quickly dissappear when they can't seem to get the results they expect.

the best for you to start right now is with a decent rimfire, match ammo and get out there shooting. 300yds simulates the drift at 1000yds with common 308 loads. No better teacher then getting bounced around in the wind.

While learning what it is to shoot, you can take your time and learn about what gear actually will get the job done.... assuming you can define what that job is.

Parts take time but getting the wrong parts is even slower.

YMMV.

Jerry
 
Well, certainly a good story, if you want to talk me down from where I'm at, I'm all ears, realistically, at a basic level, all I really personally want is an AI Chassis, I've liked them for a lot longer than I've been into firearms (Note: Video Games... I know), and they aren't that much more than getting a different adjustable stock and detachable box magazine system, so with a AI Chassis as a basic requirement, what would you build that would be competitive for less? unless dbms and stocks are cheaper than I remember and that was where you intended on saving money.

Also as a reminder, Precision matches was what I'm intending on competing in, in timed stages single loading would assumedly be a disadvantage.

Simple question - HAVE YOU EVER CLIMBED BEHIND THE STOCK OF YOUR DREAMS?

I ask because I have had the pleasure of shooting several AI rifles of various ilks. I don't own any cause they dont fit me. Not good, not bad, just is.

So maybe some range time is in order to learn what you do and dont like. If that is not readily available, then a bit of blind luck will be in order.

That can get expensive... and very dissapointing.

Jerry
 
maynard, fortunately blacktemplar07 is not being diverted by a bad case of magnum-itis; not that there's anything wrong with magnums, they are really wonderful, but there is an awful lot of very good shooting one can do with a .308W. Every shooter ought to have one, and while blacktemplar07 is looking at getting some pretty spiffy/rich .308s, it is really good that he is looking at a .308.

@blacktemplar07, when I called you "rich" I meant it tongue in cheek and in the nicest possible way of course.

Any topnotch "factory" rifle is going to be "overpriced" (price-performance wise) relative to a custom-built target target rifle. However one reality of a custom rifle build though is that you're pretty much guaranteed to lose at least 50% in resale value, whereas (say) a lightly used TRG-22 ought to sell for a decent fraction of a new TRG-22. To me this doesn't matter, I buy rifles I don't sell them so resale value figures approximately 0% into my calcs.

A TRG-22 is pretty pricey, but provided you can afford it it is a genuinely nice piece of kit. Other than the price tag, I have nothing bad to say about a TRG-22 or an Accuracy International.

It's good that you've responded and started to flesh out your interests/requirements. You'll get better and better information the more you are able to tell us what you want/need/think-you-want.

I have no idea if a repeater is required or advantageous for ORA PR matches these days but I'll bet you if you were to write to the match director you'd get the word from the horse's mouth. I would guess that there's a pretty good chance that you don't need one.

If you don't need a repeater (even though it's kinda neat to have one), then your possibilities open up even further. Even if you don't now want to be able to shoot FTR (and even if you never do), there are a lot of really fantastically wonderful rifles built for FTR and if you are able to leverage off of that it's pretty useful.

A few points of reference:

- any target/tactical/precision/sniper rifle is going to be heavy. (this detracts from portability but really is worth it for the gain in shootability)
- a 30" barrel is a royal pain. Overall rifle length (and gun case size) ends up being 50-52"; sometimes you can find shotgun cases just long enough to fit, other times you need a custom gun case. Something I really liked about my Chrysler minivan is that it would take a 30" barrelled rifle sideways. In my VW Golf I need to load my rifle longitudinally.
- try out whatever rifles you currently have, for reference (e.g. do you have a 24" barrelled rifle?). A 26" barrelled rifle even with a fixed stock is pretty manageable.
- don't waste too much time worrying about a rifle being super-toteable on your bike. Get a folding stock if it appeals to you, of course, but don't set overly stringent requirements.
 
I work in firearm sales and when I sell a customer on a higher quality rifle/scope/etc. I have NEVER had them come back and say "I really wish with the cheaper option."

Based on your quotes I would go with Option 3.
 
If you visit here enough, you will find a group of us that compete and have done very well using all manner of gear. Some NOT expensive. It boils down to understand the task AND using the right tool for that task...

...Budget needs to be "enough". many of us compete and win with far more humble budgets because we apply our resources to where it matters. Some stuff MUST be pricey, a whole lot may not be.

Right now, the best thing you can do for yourself is start shooting. And I mean thousands of well aimed dedicated fire at the target of choice at the distances desired. I guarantee you that a shooter with meager skills and a mega dollar rifle is not going to beat an experienced shooter with great wind doping skills even if the rifle is "less accurate"...


...the best for you to start right now is with a decent rimfire, match ammo and get out there shooting. 300yds simulates the drift at 1000yds with common 308 loads. No better teacher then getting bounced around in the wind.
While learning what it is to shoot, you can take your time and learn about what gear actually will get the job done.... assuming you can define what that job is...

YMMV.

Jerry

Words of wisdom!!!

Another thing to realize is that it is relatively easy to find a safe place to shoot/practice out to 300 yards...the same cannot be said for the 1000 yard mark.
 
If you visit here enough, you will find a group of us that compete and have done very well using all manner of gear. Some NOT expensive. It boils down to understand the task AND using the right tool for that task.

You have listed three project rifles all with interesting pros and cons BUT no end use defined. "maybe try this, maybe try that".

Would you build a race car then figure out if you can play at the local track? I don't mean to be condescending but as an engineer I am sure you are all aware of working from the end goal to the parts and process needed to achieve project goals.

So before you worry about the parts and bling, define the task and/or sport. WHEN you decide how the rifle will actually be used, it will take a couple of minutes to get a grocery list of parts and options THAT WILL WIN AT THE GIVEN TASK. There is nothing you can ask that we haven't either built, used or given up on.

Debating the pros and cons of various forks is fun and we do that all the time, but it really is a waste of time if you are trying to drink soup.

1) ANY rifle that has to perform at its peak needs the best barrel installed properly - there are many ways to achieve this but the end results IS the same.
2) It must be packaged in a stock that fits the shooter and appropriate to the task. Just because the last match winner wears a size 10 shoe doesn't mean that is the choice for a size 12 foot.
3) The trigger must be of a quality to allow for precise pulls - lighter is almost always better unless defined by rules.
4) The optics must allow for the best visual information wrt to the task - high mag may not be the answer, and neither maybe a red dot
5) The feeding system must comply with the task, rules and be flawless.
6) Ammo loaded to best perform in the system above. There are zillions of right answers as it depends on your needs.

Budget needs to be "enough". many of us compete and win with far more humble budgets because we apply our resources to where it matters. Some stuff MUST be pricey, a whole lot may not be.

Right now, the best thing you can do for yourself is start shooting. And I mean thousands of well aimed dedicated fire at the target of choice at the distances desired. I guarantee you that a shooter with meager skills and a mega dollar rifle is not going to beat an experienced shooter with great wind doping skills even if the rifle is "less accurate".

As several experienced shooters have indicated, we see many new shooters jump on the latest greatest band wagon and quickly dissappear when they can't seem to get the results they expect.

the best for you to start right now is with a decent rimfire, match ammo and get out there shooting. 300yds simulates the drift at 1000yds with common 308 loads. No better teacher then getting bounced around in the wind.

While learning what it is to shoot, you can take your time and learn about what gear actually will get the job done.... assuming you can define what that job is.

Parts take time but getting the wrong parts is even slower.

YMMV.

Jerry

Jerry I wish you and your shop was on the east coast. Because I would be picking at your brain on a daily bases...
 
I work in firearm sales and when I sell a customer on a higher quality rifle/scope/etc. I have NEVER had them come back and say "I really wish with the cheaper option."

Based on your quotes I would go with Option 3.

Except when he pulls into his driveway with that gorgeous Porsche 911 and his wife is waiting to stuff 4 kids and hockey gear into their "new car".

cost doesn't always determine function...or utility

Jerry
 
If you visit here enough, you will find a group of us that compete and have done very well using all manner of gear. Some NOT expensive. It boils down to understand the task AND using the right tool for that task.
You have listed three project rifles all with interesting pros and cons BUT no end use defined. "maybe try this, maybe try that".
Would you build a race car then figure out if you can play at the local track? I don't mean to be condescending but as an engineer I am sure you are all aware of working from the end goal to the parts and process needed to achieve project goals.
So before you worry about the parts and bling, define the task and/or sport. WHEN you decide how the rifle will actually be used, it will take a couple of minutes to get a grocery list of parts and options THAT WILL WIN AT THE GIVEN TASK. There is nothing you can ask that we haven't either built, used or given up on.
Debating the pros and cons of various forks is fun and we do that all the time, but it really is a waste of time if you are trying to drink soup.
1) ANY rifle that has to perform at its peak needs the best barrel installed properly - there are many ways to achieve this but the end results IS the same.
2) It must be packaged in a stock that fits the shooter and appropriate to the task. Just because the last match winner wears a size 10 shoe doesn't mean that is the choice for a size 12 foot.
3) The trigger must be of a quality to allow for precise pulls - lighter is almost always better unless defined by rules.
4) The optics must allow for the best visual information wrt to the task - high mag may not be the answer, and neither maybe a red dot
5) The feeding system must comply with the task, rules and be flawless.
6) Ammo loaded to best perform in the system above. There are zillions of right answers as it depends on your needs.
Budget needs to be "enough". many of us compete and win with far more humble budgets because we apply our resources to where it matters. Some stuff MUST be pricey, a whole lot may not be.
Right now, the best thing you can do for yourself is start shooting. And I mean thousands of well aimed dedicated fire at the target of choice at the distances desired. I guarantee you that a shooter with meager skills and a mega dollar rifle is not going to beat an experienced shooter with great wind doping skills even if the rifle is "less accurate".
As several experienced shooters have indicated, we see many new shooters jump on the latest greatest band wagon and quickly dissappear when they can't seem to get the results they expect.
the best for you to start right now is with a decent rimfire, match ammo and get out there shooting. 300yds simulates the drift at 1000yds with common 308 loads. No better teacher then getting bounced around in the wind.
While learning what it is to shoot, you can take your time and learn about what gear actually will get the job done.... assuming you can define what that job is.
Parts take time but getting the wrong parts is even slower.
YMMV.
Jerry

Hi Jerry,

Firstly thanks for the detailed reply, while I believe I didn't elaborate on the use initially, I did in my 2nd and 3rd post, in regards to specially trying to compete in precision matches, for the sake of clarity, these matches http://ontariorifleassociation.ca/node/80.

I understand that you need to have a goal, which in this case is to compete at said precision matches. I get that you need a good barrel, and as I mentioned earlier I've stricken option 1 from the list. As another mentioned, what use is building a racecar if it doesn't meet the regulations of where you intend on shooting it. Well, given that I intend on using at the Borden, ON rifle range in precision matches, I think that each of these regulatory speaking can compete there, unless I'm missing something, in which case I hope that someone can point out what I need to do differently.

Am I really so far off the mark here that my choices are forks to the spoon that I require? I get buying a rimfire for wind calling and cheap practice, but I do intend on feeding this with the thousands of rnds its going to take to learn, theres only so many weekends between now and then. And as you mentioned, I need practice, not gear perfection and I agree, which is why I came on here to help hurry this equipment decision along.

Again, I would love it if I could practice with a bunch of rifles, and compete in these competitions beforehand, but I can't. Sure when I was getting a snowboard, i tried a bunch of different rental boards and all of my friends boards before I got mine, but I have neither rental rifles, nor friends with precision rifles. So I got to start somewhere, and this is where I'm at. I feel like options 2 and 3 meet your points 1-6, but maybe I'm missing something.

If I'm really doing this all wrong, what do you recommend I do or build differently?
 
OK, Precision Matches it is. I can understand the draw to it. It's fun.
I used a single shot bolt action and never felt I needed a repeater. Nice to have, but not necessary.
Portability for a bike? You mean motorcycle or bicycle?
I've contemplated getting a trailer for my Harley so it's doable and you don't need a folding stock if you do.

I believe you strongly need to consider a proper stock for prone shooting. If you can't fit into that AI stock, you will become very frustrated almost immediately.
Having never tried any makes this difficult for advisement, so I'd consider a conventional prone style to begin with and an adjustable cheekpiece too.
Top notch barrel is very important and .308W is very forgiving and a good choice.
Optics, try something that is known to be a performer. You're not ready to experiment with unknown brands.
Nightforce, Leupold, Sightron, Scmidt & Bender are well known brands that excel in precision type shooting and you can buy once cry once there and not lose.

Unfortunately, your decision to get into shooting by spring/summer is running out of time quickly to get this all together.
My advise is to buy a used rifle and have at it if you can. The Pierce is nice, but I'd put a McMillan A5 or something with at least a 26" barrel to make those 800 to 1000yds shots nice and easy. That would be more comfortable for prone to me.
Just a thought.
 
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maynard, fortunately blacktemplar07 is not being diverted by a bad case of magnum-itis; not that there's anything wrong with magnums, they are really wonderful, but there is an awful lot of very good shooting one can do with a .308W. Every shooter ought to have one, and while blacktemplar07 is looking at getting some pretty spiffy/rich .308s, it is really good that he is looking at a .308.
@blacktemplar07, when I called you "rich" I meant it tongue in cheek and in the nicest possible way of course.
Any topnotch "factory" rifle is going to be "overpriced" (price-performance wise) relative to a custom-built target target rifle. However one reality of a custom rifle build though is that you're pretty much guaranteed to lose at least 50% in resale value, whereas (say) a lightly used TRG-22 ought to sell for a decent fraction of a new TRG-22. To me this doesn't matter, I buy rifles I don't sell them so resale value figures approximately 0% into my calcs.
A TRG-22 is pretty pricey, but provided you can afford it it is a genuinely nice piece of kit. Other than the price tag, I have nothing bad to say about a TRG-22 or an Accuracy International.
It's good that you've responded and started to flesh out your interests/requirements. You'll get better and better information the more you are able to tell us what you want/need/think-you-want.
I have no idea if a repeater is required or advantageous for ORA PR matches these days but I'll bet you if you were to write to the match director you'd get the word from the horse's mouth. I would guess that there's a pretty good chance that you don't need one.
If you don't need a repeater (even though it's kinda neat to have one), then your possibilities open up even further. Even if you don't now want to be able to shoot FTR (and even if you never do), there are a lot of really fantastically wonderful rifles built for FTR and if you are able to leverage off of that it's pretty useful.
A few points of reference:
- any target/tactical/precision/sniper rifle is going to be heavy. (this detracts from portability but really is worth it for the gain in shootability)
- a 30" barrel is a royal pain. Overall rifle length (and gun case size) ends up being 50-52"; sometimes you can find shotgun cases just long enough to fit, other times you need a custom gun case. Something I really liked about my Chrysler minivan is that it would take a 30" barrelled rifle sideways. In my VW Golf I need to load my rifle longitudinally.
- try out whatever rifles you currently have, for reference (e.g. do you have a 24" barrelled rifle?). A 26" barrelled rifle even with a fixed stock is pretty manageable.
- don't waste too much time worrying about a rifle being super-toteable on your bike. Get a folding stock if it appeals to you, of course, but don't set overly stringent requirements.

Well resale value is a very valid point, as much as I am dedicated to the cause right now, and intend on following through, maybe its not what I'm hoping it'll be, and getting more money out of it would be a big bonus, from a risk management point of view factory rifles are appealing for sure.

As far as portability goes, weight is less of an issue as much as size/dimensions are, I have a legitimately small car, I don't think a five foot rifle/case combo would fit, so me not being able to transport is kind of a big deal. The AI AE MK3 also comes in 24" which may be the ideal compromise from a risk management/resale/size/F-class and precision rifles combination.

I've handled two rifles in the past, a 24" .270 and a 24" .30-06, they're both manageable.

Simple question - HAVE YOU EVER CLIMBED BEHIND THE STOCK OF YOUR DREAMS?
I ask because I have had the pleasure of shooting several AI rifles of various ilks. I don't own any cause they dont fit me. Not good, not bad, just is.
So maybe some range time is in order to learn what you do and dont like. If that is not readily available, then a bit of blind luck will be in order.
That can get expensive... and very dissapointing.
Jerry

Definitely blind luck, only ever been behind a classic hunting profile synthetic and wood stock. Distinct possibility I may not fit the stock at all, but the adjustability certainly increases the odds of it fitting. Also if I don't fit the thumbhole grip, I can always put another skin on and go to pistol grip and that could be another solution.

Words of wisdom!!!
Another thing to realize is that it is relatively easy to find a safe place to shoot/practice out to 300 yards...the same cannot be said for the 1000 yard mark.

I've scouted some nearby long-distance spots as the nearby range is 125 yards. Hardly useful if I buy a LR rifle and don't have a place to shoot it :S
 
My final thoughts ( I've already chimed in enough ) re the AI chassis: it is heavy and it is a left folder - now I personally really, really like these features but there are two downsides. First is it makes it hard to get a heavy barrelled rifle much under 16 lbs so add scope, rings and bipod and you are struggling to make F/TR. Second issue is that the folder really isn't quite so portable as you make think - the left fold takes up quite a bit of width. Incidentally the Coyote is a right fold ( which being an odd duck I don't like as much LOL ) and takes up less room.

I cannot overemphasize glass - trust me, I have wasted so much money on the wrong glass. I soooo which I had bought good glass at the outset. Now I only use S+B and NIghtforce but I always recommend Sightron as a very viable and less expensive option. Deal with Jerry on this - he will walk you through the various options.

Finally may I plug my reviews - you might find them helpful.
 
I've scouted some nearby long-distance spots as the nearby range is 125 yards. Hardly useful if I buy a LR rifle and don't have a place to shoot it :S

Private land or public land??? Check the regulations carefully as some provinces frown upon using firearms on public lands outside of hunting seasons and most counties have regulations about discharging firearms within a certain distance of a dwelling. Just a heads up...last thing you want to do is have a rifle of that price confiscated because you didn't do your homework!
 
Took a quick overview of the link so here are my thoughts - likely missed some subtle points but close enough

Stock - this is really critical cause you do not have time to muck about trying to get a sight picture. Either try the stock before you buy or get one that is fully adjustable. Where time is important, I favor stocks with open grips like the SAKO TRG, HS and McM A5. Next up would be an AR type grip. Last would be a thumbhole stock - it takes time to move your hand in and out of that opening and can impede reaching a safety depending on action design

Cals - I would start with the 6.5, 8 twist in something like a 260Rem. Recoil will be an issue but you also need to buck some potentially strong winds at Connaught so the high BC is worthy. if that recoil is too high, 243 win. I would consider the 7-08 next, last would be 308 cause it isn't required by rules and it is the ballistic pig in this mix.

mag - AI style is the goto. Don't get to worried about super long bullets as the targets are far more generous then F class. Speed and surity of function would be higher on my priority list.

Barrel - I would likely stop at 24" even though this gets out to 1000yds. Balance and speed may be more important. Again, you need to review the actual match and match layout to see where the most points are gained and lost. I would go with a #5 contour. The more common #7's and heavier may not serve any use as you do not need huge numbers of rds fired per stage. ultimately, the rifle should balance so you can move, pivot and tilt the rifle quickly and as determined by the needs of the stage. Similar "tactical" matches may also involve movement or shooting from stands. Lower weight, better balance helps in this type of game.

For me, balance means the rifle sits level with my left hand under the action bolt in front of the mag box.

Action - Rem based likely has the most parts. Savage is a close second - in fact there are/will be factory rifles that can excel at this game. any of the higher end "tactical" rifles might work but many don't balance at all due to different priorities. Try before you buy

Trigger - 1lb is likely as light as I would go. I do not want to jump the trigger due to excitement.

Optics - 24X is likely all that I would need. I would put on my SIII6-24X50 w/ LRMOA and have at it.

I would want a rifle to be no more then 11lbs all in just in case I include some run and gun matches into the mix.

If you are only shooting in 1 match with 1 set of stages, then you can be more specific in the build to fit that one set of parameters but these type of matches tend to change so a flexible rig seems a better idea to me.

I put together a rifle in hopes to shoot in the BCRA tac match. Because it only goes to 600m, the 223 was my choice with a 22" barrel. The event is separated into chamberings so the 223/308 was where I would have wanted to play. If there is no cartridge restrictions, use what offers the most benefits.

Jerry

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Homemade stock

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What I would use today and promag will be making one for the Rem shortly.

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Another stock style I would consider.
 
This will also be my first year shooting Precision and I spent a lot of time last year talking to guys who have done it for years, competed, and won. I gave their advice very strong consideration before I ordered my rifle (a custom, being built by Sean at North Shore), but I also had the benefit of a couple of years of FTR to start to get an appreciation of what works past 600y. As others have mentioned the 20" barrel may prove to be a hindrance performance-wise; most of the rifles I saw at NSCC last year were 24" as a minimum, with several approaching 30". I don't recall seeing any AICS rifles on the line, but there were lots of traditional prone stocks (McMillan, Robertson Composites, etc.) and several tube guns (think MDT TAC 21). Most had muzzle brakes. Repeaters appeared to be the rule rather than the exception, but the guys that won it were using single shot BATs.

Given the complexity of the course of fire I think Jerry's oft repeated advice of a quality rimfire for extended practice is very good. The fact is that you will in all likelihood not want to make a habit of firing off 200 rounds of 308 in a session, but this is easily done with a 22, and for a tenth the price. You probably won't have a chance to practice movers and snaps at a local range so why not focus on learning and practicing trigger control and wind reading?
 
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