Defective Shell holder?

Consider checking primer pocket for crimp... maybe slight.

AE ammo should be crimped.. at least the stuff I pick up here is.

I use the Dillon decrimp machine and it makes very fast work of this... some you barely feel a thing, others there is definitely a tight spot. But what a joy to use this vs hand tools and it swages smooth for really nice primer seating.

Never had any issues with Lee priming including SH... there should be a lot of play in the SH. That way the case can align in the die. As long as there is enough engagement on the rim to pull the case out of the case, it is working as designed

YMMV

Jerry
 
I tried using the Lyman crimp removing tool, same issues. I also tried using Aguila brass which is not crimped. That time the casing flew out a nailed my thumb nail pretty hard.
 
I stopped using the Lyman decrimp die as it doesn't always clean up the pocket.

Dillon is awesome and you can see the full swage clean up... primers go in sweet.

If the case is actually coming out of the SH, then the SH is the problem. I think I might have a #10 SH???? not near my reloading bench.

But a case in a SH and pushed should tear the rim off before it leaves the SH. Flopping around in the SH is typical but you shouldn't be able to drive it out from behind.

Jerry
 
Definitely something weird going on like maybe a mis-stamped shell holder? I just measured my #4 Lee shell holder at 0.255" while the rim of a LC 5.56 cartridge measures 0.375". 0.120" should be more than enough.

LC case in my #4 Lee holder -
2z736g4.jpg


Inside dimension of shell holder -
amsktj.jpg


Outside dimension of a LC 5.56 case -
2rmbif9.jpg
 
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Since we are takin' Pictures, I brung out the u.s.bee Microscope thingy.

The #4 Shell plate holder I have measures 0.3755 on the larger diameter and measures 0.3365 on the smaller diameter.
That's a difference of 0.039
1.jpg
11.jpg


The #4 plate for the trimmer base measures 0.3775 on the larger diameter and measures 0.3400 on the smaller diameter.
That's a difference of 0.0375
2.jpg
12.jpg


The #4s plate for the loadmaster base measures 0.3760 on the larger diameter on one of the slots and measures 0.3365 on the smaller diameter on the same slot.
That's a difference of 0.0395
3.jpg
13.jpg


An FC 5.56 shellcasing measures 0.3720 at the base. (random single shell sample)
4.jpg


An FC .223 shellcasing measures 0.3740 at the base.(random single shell sample)
5.jpg


An IVI 5.56 shellcasing measures 0.3740 at the base.(random single shell sample)
6.jpg


Notice the ring around the primer on both the 5.5 and .223 FC primer pocket, this ring is the primer crimp, both of these have not been cleaned up yet.
7.jpg
8.jpg


Fitting the smallest shellcasing (FC 5.56) into my shellplate holder gives a gap of 0.0035 on the larger diameter and the difference of 0.0355 from the shellcasing to the smaller diameter.
9.jpg


When you place your shellcasing into the shell holder, does the primer pocket line up in the center like this one?
10.jpg
 
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I tried both AE black box (range brass), and aguila (my 1 fired, not crimped). I tried using the lyman crimp trimmer on FC, same results. I know 100% that aguila is not crimped primers.
Click to expand...

Then you know 100% wrong ;)

AE black box (AE red box typically is not crimped) and Aguilla both have crimped primers. I know, a buddy and I spent a Sunday reaming about 1400 mostly Aguilla cases. They both use a circular crimp rather than the 3 point stake type.

The Lyman primer pocket reamer, even when used, will still leave a formally crimped primer pocket tight. You really have to go at it with the tool. Again, I know this from using it for 1400 cases.

We tried priming some 'reamed' cases with a Hornady shell holder and it still required a fair bit of force.

Having said that, it's not impossible your Lee SH is loose. I have come across that before
 
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bsand said:
I almost feel like just buying lapua brass right off the bat. but the swaging tool maybe an investment I'm willing to make.
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You making a mountain out of a mole hole lol, If it is the crimp, fix it and move on, It's way more fun chutin' the stuff than fretting over crimps.
 
Get the Dillon swagger it does an awesome job , new primers go in smooth . It sounds like what ever your using isn't doing a good job.

When I pick up range brass no matter what brand it is I'll swage it all
 
As much as the Dillon swagger seems to do a good job, it is expensive and uses a brute force method, I prefer something a little more simple that only addresses the issue directly.

The pic below is the same IVI brass in my previous post, I just punched out the primer and took the pic.
notice the primer crimp gone and a slight bevel in place?
15.jpg


This is done by a simple and cheap countersink drill bit, all you need to do is touch the pocket to it and it takes only the crimp away, it does not try to reshape the brass by brute force.
14.jpg


All you need is a drill, or even better if you have a drill press.
 
Emmer said:
As much as the Dillon swagger seems to do a good job, it is expensive and uses a brute force method, I prefer something a little more simple that only addresses the issue directly.

The pic below is the same IVI brass in my previous post, I just punched out the primer and took the pic.
notice the primer crimp gone and a slight bevel in place?
15.jpg


This is done by a simple and cheap countersink drill bit, all you need to do is touch the pocket to it and it takes only the crimp away, it does not try to reshape the brass by brute force.
14.jpg


All you need is a drill, or even better if you have a drill press.
Click to expand...

I wouldnt call swagging brute force it's like resizing a case. But to each his own, I swage anywhere from 1000-2000 cases at a time which I'm sure is easier and faster then your method
 
bsand said:
Im headed to WSS to pick one up today. $46.74. Im still going to compare the shell holders.. But I think I know what the problem was.... User Error. I feel pretty embarssed for making such a rookie mistake.
Click to expand...

That's the downside of experience. It teaches you things that you'd really rather not know.
 
PitBull1973 said:
I wouldnt call swagging brute force it's like resizing a case. But to each his own, I swage anywhere from 1000-2000 cases at a time which I'm sure is easier and faster then your method
Click to expand...

Like you said, to each their own, but I would argue that your swage is faster.
Mine is pick up, touch, drop in bucket.
Yours is pick up, insert in swagger, crank handle, remove from swagger, drop in bucket.
To each their own, I guess :)
 
Emmer said:
Like you said, to each their own, but I would argue that your swage is faster.
Mine is pick up, touch, drop in bucket.
Yours is pick up, insert in swagger, crank handle, remove from swagger, drop in bucket.
To each their own, I guess :)
Click to expand...

Haha I guess everyone wants to be a mechanic , some don't have the tools. That's what I call a hack
 
PitBull1973 said:
Haha I guess everyone wants to be a mechanic , some don't have the tools. That's what I call a hack
Click to expand...

<--- Red Seal, 20 years Vehicle technician, Finished out my career with as a GM tech doing drivability, and transmissions.
Just for fun, here is a pic of my red seal
16.jpg

Go figure Eh? A bigger hammer isn't always the answer.
 
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