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Often hear of guys loading trailboss for light loads in older rifles to keep shooting the rifles often enough and not worry that their beating the hell out of an antique. Must be a nice very shootable load you got there.
 
I use Trailboss in some of my strong antique pistols but am going to unique.

The Trailboss makes me nervous because it has a steep pressure curve and actually peaks pretty high. It's great for light loads in modern guns and it's nearly impossible to over fill a case but I'm not convinced that it's actually all that gentle on the old irons.
 
I had some issues with Trailboss in my Dillon 550 as it was not throw the exact amount of powder every time. I guess it is due to the flakiness of the powder. But as was mentioned it is almost impossible to double charge a shell. And in my book that puts TB as number 1 powder for cowboy plinking loads.
 
I use Trailboss in some of my strong antique pistols but am going to unique.

The Trailboss makes me nervous because it has a steep pressure curve and actually peaks pretty high. It's great for light loads in modern guns and it's nearly impossible to over fill a case but I'm not convinced that it's actually all that gentle on the old irons.[/QUOT

I agree whole-heartedly...Trail Boss is not a "low pressure " smokeless powder that can be used as a replacement for Black in "all antique situations", granted it can be used in some "light smokeless" loads, the same precautions must be adhered to as any "low volume' smokeless powder. It is a bulky powder that fills case space and works well in "reduced" smokeless loads for cowboy shooting in modern firearms. The "bulkiness" does not make it a Black powder sub., it just lessend the chance of a "double charge" in a large (ex..45 lc) case.
 
I will get some shot up bullets from the back stop & melt it in with the pure lead . That mite help with hardness . I use Trail Boss powder in MY 1871 & 71/84 Mauser great stuff. Was told it is close to black powder ??.

My understanding of Trail Boss is that it is a smokeless powder and has no similarity to BP. It is just a bulked up pistol powder and can never be used as sub for BP.
Someone can correct me if I am wrong.
 
I was about to say the same thing. Not much dirt as the name "sewage" would imply. One single pipe I found with a lot of build up inside, but I smashed it against concrete and knock it with the hammer till everything came out.
I smelted one bucket of WW one time incredible dirty. The smell was worst than a constipated skunk fart. Absolutely horrid, and a smoke I can't describe. That's why for me the respirator with P100 cartridges is a must when smelting.
 
If there are any joints in the sewer pipe you picked up, are you in luck!!!

The joints are high tin content solder. Exactly what you want for mold fillout.

I melted a few hundred pounds of plumbing pipe a few years ago and kept the joints separate, and now I use them for my source for tin for when boolits aren't filling the mold out.

I used an axe and an old log splitting stump for my precision tin recovery.

Melted it all separately, and skimmed off the sh!tty looking stuff that floated to the top.

Marked ingots with a Princess Auto letter stamp for permanent reference.
 
If there are any joints in the sewer pipe you picked up, are you in luck!!!

The joints are high tin content solder. Exactly what you want for mold fillout.

I melted a few hundred pounds of plumbing pipe a few years ago and kept the joints separate, and now I use them for my source for tin for when boolits aren't filling the mold out.

I used an axe and an old log splitting stump for my precision tin recovery.

Melted it all separately, and skimmed off the sh!tty looking stuff that floated to the top.

Marked ingots with a Princess Auto letter stamp for permanent reference.


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