Depriming Berdan using the hydraulic method

dnepr said:
Kinda what I am expecting , I have a case of gp 11 , a case of romanian 7.62x39 brass cased surplus and some berdan primed 303 Brit .if I can make the steel cases work great, if not and all I do is sort out the methodology for my berdan brass so be it . I do shoot a fair bit of reduced power cast loads so I am curios how steel case will stand up with such loads ,
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I tried the 303 British brass berdan case (WW2 stock) 1944 headstamp, PITA Brass... (crimped, sealed and over sized primer pockets) almost like steel case... gave up on those ones... Romanian Brass??? sure its not copper washed stell casing? GP11, I have converted 10 cases to boxer now that I plan to reload sometime soon.
 
Lespem1 said:
I tried the 303 British brass berdan case (WW2 stock) 1944 headstamp, PITA Brass... (crimped, sealed and over sized primer pockets) almost like steel case... gave up on those ones... Romanian Brass??? sure its not copper washed stell casing? GP11, I have converted 10 cases to boxer now that I plan to reload sometime soon.
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yeh the 303 could be a pita , the romanian stuff is brass , looks like brass , tarnishes like brass , feels like brass and is non magnetic ,
 
infideleggwelder said:
at the price of surplus, I think that I`d keep this in the "good to know" how to do section of my brain, as opposed to actually doing it as practice, reserving it for extreme SHTF. chasing SKS casings is a pain to begin with
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Yes. Just seeing if it is possible. Don't think it is very cost/time effective at this point. Will hold on to cases for back up. Just would like to deprime them first.
 
H20 method easy with the GP11 cases.I put the brass in a shell holder on a piece of plywood on the floor and insert a correct size socket extension in the neck with the case full of water.A light tap with a hammer and out it goes.Harold
 
Annealing is a different process for steel, but it likely could be done. I think you heat it up hot enough then let it cool very slow. Don't know that it work hardens the same as brass either though
 
steel doesn't work harden as opposed to work fatiguing. think of bending a coat hanger wire back and forth till it breaks. the steel in those casings, being cheap, could likely be a mix of scrap, both high and low carbon. Annealing is as above, heat red, cool very slowly. as for neck sizing, you may want to try it hot, red heat. i have not, and it could just wrinkle up and be a waste of time.
i keep all 7.62 x 39 and x 54 that i find, wash, dry, put in rainy day coffee cans, along with the spent primers. might want to mess around with them one day.
 
mbogo3 said:
H20 method easy with the GP11 cases.I put the brass in a shell holder on a piece of plywood on the floor and insert a correct size socket extension in the neck with the case full of water.A light tap with a hammer and out it goes.Harold
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I've been successful with the gp 11's also. 7.62x54 also worked for me. 7.62x39 don't work for me.
 
Lespem1 said:
I used a grounded at the tip nail set, same idea
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I use deck screws , harder steel than nails and the ability to grab a Robertson screwdriver and give it a 1/4 to 1/2 turn in for a better bite is handy , the tip do wear out but but I have pails of them kicking around so just grab a new one . And the worn out one will still serve its original function so kinda a free tool . 4 inch screws have enough length to give me the leverage to easily pop out the primer .
 
K-C can you please(pretty please with a case of GP11 on top?) take some pictures of your setup?

I am going to be a member of the GP11 team soon, and want to be able to reload this stuff.

very new to reloading in general, but not new to making things work. I am a visual learner tho, need the pictures.

thank you!
 
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