depriming issues

Northern_guy111

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has any one ever had an issue when reloading rifles brass, the primer end comes out but leaves the rest of the primer in the casing. i was wondering if any one has any ideas on how to remove the left over primer from the rifle casing. in the photos you can see that the walls for the primer i left in the casing after sizing. this seems to be only happening when i use winchester primers.
http://s1280.photobucket.com/user/northern_guy111/media/IMG_2021_zps8cf26ece.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
http://s1280.photobucket.com/user/northern_guy111/media/IMG_2018_zps5874025b.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1
 
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Do you mean that the anvil is being left behind?
If so, I don't understand how that could happen because the de-priming pin actually pushes on the anvil and not the primer cup.
Sometimes the two parts separate but both always come out...
 
Side wall ring? All of my primers are two metal parts; cup and anvil. No ring. Many come out in two pieces, but never three.
I cannot see how a decapping or resizing die would leave behind the anvil if the cup comes out. More info needed, ideally a pic of what is sticking in the brass.
 
It happens to me on range pickup pistol brass. I'm not really sure the quality of primer used as the primer splits in to two (except the anvil) during depriming.
 
what type of primers / dies? whats your procedure ? what rifle?

there is somthing seriously wrong going on there

there has been a drop in winchester primers quality, and lots of reports of them splitting, but this is a first.

i sugguest stop using them, can you post some pics of the primer of a fired but not deprimed case?
 
Is the primer cup separating? Could it be that there is a sealed or crimped primer pocket and the primer cup is a little thin around the edge from forming?
 
I now see the problem - this is Winchester LEO brass. They originally have crimped primers. You are pressing you primers into a crimped pocket and weakening the primers.
You need to get an RCBS Swaging kit to swage the primer pockets (one time only) or use a Lee Chamfer Tool (90109) to create a slight countersink in the primer pocket.



LeeDeburringTool_zpsa80b70fc.jpg
 
I de prime with a lee sizing die then use a rcbs swagging tool to remove the crimp so that the brass sits on the decrimper like rcbs shows its suppose to.
 
Looks as if the primers are well crimped, and rather than the whole primer coming out, the primer head is separating from the primer.
I've seen this happen occasionally.
Can't be bothered trying to remove the little tube; just recycle the case.
 
Your problem has already been identified as crimped primer pockets. For others that were perplexed by your problem, it can also happen with range brass that have been "in the elements" for some time, moisture gets into the inside of the primers & rust weakens the cup at the curve. When de-priming is attempted it just takes the head off the primer off and pushes the anvil out, leaving the side wall in the pocket. I used an old dull mill cutter in my drill to grip & remove the sidewall but in reality the already given advise to "recycle" would have been more prudent.

I have un-primed hundreds of "un-weathered" crimped .223 brass without breaking the primer body and if your brass is picked up range brass I suspect you may have a combination of the two problems giving you grief.
 
Thank you for all your help. It wasn't dange brass and I had everything swagged never knew about the chamfering the primer pocket. I tried that trick and it worked out great. will find out for sure when I try reloading it.
 
Yep. Happened with a big pile of 9mm I acquired that had been fired out of OPP SMG's and left for somebody else to clean up(CF range I opened one day after the OPP TRU guys had been there. Think they got denied access after that.) I think the primers were sealed in, not crimped though. Something like Lock-tite. Nothing I tried ever worked to get the rest out. Pitch 'em.
 
From my understanding what the "technical" term (don't judge) is called a "ringed" primer - it is a regular primer, it is just that it has a manufactered weakness and it separates upon de-priming. When I was bulk processing 223 on my 1050 with auto drive I would see a couple of these every 10,000 cases. I didn't really see any rhyme or reason when I was doing it, I would just throw them in the scrap bucket.

I was trolling on the camdex equipment site and for their case processors, after checking for berdan primed cases, then de-primining, they "check for ringed primers" then they move onto the swage step.
 
I seem to have this problem with sealed primers in Federal 204 brass. The end of the cup breaks off and the anvil is removed but the side wall (ring) of the primer is left behind. Every Federal 204 brass I've tried to reload (40) has done it. I've got a bunch more I can have cheap but unless I can get all the primer out..... Would heating the sealant a bit work?
 
The primers can become corroded from moisture and then you just push out or break the face off the sides. The solution is to throw out those bass that you cannot deprime.
 
These aren't corroded at all. They are however sealed in with a blue-green sealant. I use to use nail polish to seal primers in my handguns when I was pushing max pressures. I just put a dab on after loading was complete. Kept the primer from flattening out quite so much. These seem like the sealant has been applied before the primer was set. They're locked in there like they were glued.
 
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