Derya Mk12 - Misc. Questions

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G0DFATHER

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Hello All,
I'm considering purchasing a Derya Mk12 and was hoping some of the folks here could shed light on a few random questions that I have about it.


Bolt Removal
Based on the few videos I've seen, it looks like you must remove the barrel to remove the bolt. True/false?

Barrel Removal
I also gather you need to undo a couple of screws to remove the barrel. I'm a huge fan of tool-less take down, and any time something needs to be screwed/unscrewed I worry about long term wear (i.e. cross threading, stripping (especially in the case of an aluminum receiver)). Anyone have issues with these, or anticipate any?

O-Rings
In the online manual I see a parts reference to O-rings. Are these made of rubber or a similar "non-endurable" material? Does anyone get the impression that this is a likely point of failure? Maybe I just don't properly understand the gas system, but it brings flash backs to the paintball days where one busted o-ring meant you were done unless you habitually carried spares and that's not something I look forward to in a firearm. Reliability #1.

Lastly, any close up pics of the gas system and where it interacts with the bolt carrier would be appreciated if anyone cares to share. And of course, any other recommendations/discouraging comments are welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Alex
 
Yes you must remove the barrel to remove the bolt.

Barrel removal is simple, mainly tool-less but there is two allen key screws holding the barrel, stacked one on top of the other so they wont loosen. seems like a good system and don`t anticipate any issues.

Not shure what the O-ring are made out of, not a fan of the idea but so far works flawlessly and see no signs of wear after 500 + rounds.

I would personally recommend the Derya mk12, fun to shoot, so far it`s been very reliable, no feeding issues at all with any ammo and looks fantastic.

hope some of this helps
 
G0DFATHER said:
Hello All,
I'm considering purchasing a Derya Mk12 and was hoping some of the folks here could shed light on a few random questions that I have about it.


Bolt Removal
Based on the few videos I've seen, it looks like you must remove the barrel to remove the bolt. True/false?

Barrel Removal
I also gather you need to undo a couple of screws to remove the barrel. I'm a huge fan of tool-less take down, and any time something needs to be screwed/unscrewed I worry about long term wear (i.e. cross threading, stripping (especially in the case of an aluminum receiver)). Anyone have issues with these, or anticipate any?

O-Rings
In the online manual I see a parts reference to O-rings. Are these made of rubber or a similar "non-endurable" material? Does anyone get the impression that this is a likely point of failure? Maybe I just don't properly understand the gas system, but it brings flash backs to the paintball days where one busted o-ring meant you were done unless you habitually carried spares and that's not something I look forward to in a firearm. Reliability #1.

Lastly, any close up pics of the gas system and where it interacts with the bolt carrier would be appreciated if anyone cares to share. And of course, any other recommendations/discouraging comments are welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Alex
Click to expand...

Save your money.. dont buy crap
If you must spend.. think Benelli M4..
 
Luckybeer said:
Save your money.. dont buy crap
If you must spend.. think Benelli M4..
Click to expand...

I had an m4 ... I personally like the mk12 better.
It has been as reliable as my m4 even though I know the quality isn't the same.
It is on the upper end of quality for all the Turkish guns I have handled though
 
Just picked up an MK12, anyone else have cycling issues with target load? Few others online say it just needs to be broken in and to fire some slugs through her
 
Loctite on both barrel screws. Blue preferred. Yes barrel needs to come out to detail clean but the system runs pretty clean for a semi. O ring appears to be viton. Should last at least 15k rounds.

Overall the gas system works much
Like a Winchester semi auto. Quite robust.
 
Still breaking mine in, and its is still not liking light loads
So much fun to shoot.
Take down is a snap for cleaning.
I am liking this gun ��
 
Love mine and got a deer with it this year! Mine is flawless with even the crappiest target loads. I have read about people having problems with these and any other semi really. The main problem that comes up is that the gun was never totally taken apart and had all the factory goo removed and then lightly lubed properly. Most new semi's also need a bit of a break in with some high powered loads first. a few boxes of 3" buckshot/slugs works wonders. Another main thing that causes semi's to fail is people shoot them in cold weather with too much of the wrong lube in them/or not cleaned properly from new. This causes the lube to gum and slow the action down enough that they can short stroke and not pick up the next round.

All you have to do to get almost every semi shooting perfectly in short order with target loads is to fully clean it from the box, lightly lube it properly with something that won't gum in cold weather and then put a few boxes of full power buckshot/slugs/goose loads through it!!! Lots of people don't do this...
 
Mine has been fantastic. I cleaned and lightly lubed it right out of the box. I started with 10 rounds of Score 2¾" slug and moved to Score high velocity target with only 2 feeding issues in the first 100 rounds. At around 150 rounds I tried some Score low recoil through it and it cycled great.
My sister in law hates shooting 12 gauge. But after a little convincing to give the MK12 a go, we had trouble prying it out of her hands.
Only recommendation I have for anyone with one is to disassemble the magazines and de-bur the follower. Went from having stiff spots to butter smooth.
 
i have an MK-10 from 2016 , after a couple hundred rounds the magazines have little wear marks in them....i have shot 1oz 1200fps slugs without issue as well as 1200 fps 1 1/8 oz target loads , no issue....in the first few hundred rounds, maybe 7-10 stoppages, stove pipes or a misfeed...i think the mags are the main issue, the gun runs great but you do have to clean all the factory goo out first....i get a giggle from the folks who think the semi is going to eat the dirt cheap 1145 fps 1 oz loads....yeah they are cheap but the fps isn't there to cycle the action....
 
I have a question for more experienced Derya Mk12 owners.

Mine was bought a week ago and I seem to be missing the Sealing ring part #66 and O-Ring part #69. Two others who recently bought theirs are reporting the same missing parts. I have the "not cycling light target loads yet" issue, but mine only has about 50 waterfowl BB loads through it so far. So, too soon to tell on that front. My question is if the lack of those to parts are an oversight or is it a subtle change in the design? Please see below what I mean.

Below is a pic of the piston from the manual clearly smooth with an O-Ring on it.

piston-1_orig.png


Mine ( yes I know its dirty) looks ribbed and completely different

piston2_orig.jpg



Another reason I am leaning towards the small design change theory is that the manual ( as below) states to remove both Barrel screws. I seem to only have one.

screws_orig.png


Anyone able to shed some light on this?
 
I just got an email back from Ben at O'Dell Engineering. It seems we do not need #66 and #69

sorry I was travelling yesterday.
Yes, that is a gen 2 part. They no longer use the old piston and seal.

Thanks,
Ben
 
I also have the new gen2 gas piston without the o-ring and figured it was due to a new design revision since it differed from the image and parts diagram of the manual. Good to know that Ben confirmed this (thanks!). And concerning the barrel set screw, I only have one set screw as well but now knowing there is gen 2 parts sheds light on this. I believe this is also due to a change in the gen2 since there is now a barrel nut holding the barrel in place to the upper (at least on mine). It is removed using the multi tool wrench that comes with the firearm and then the barrel can be pulled out of the upper. However my manual does reflect the change of the barrel nut on step 11 where step 11A references the removal of two set screws and 11B references the removal of two barrels rings (nut) however there is only one.
 
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