Derya pump and bolt action 9mm pcc

Most common two ways to lock a pump action 9mm are tilting or rotating bolt, or locking action/slide which is released either with trigger pull or hammer fall. Latter would require some button to unlock, former could get away without unlocking button. It is essentially a mechanical delay. I expect anything form Turkish manufacturers, but 9mm pump action without lockup sounds too extreme even for them.
My guess is it’s probably either a tilting bolt, flapper locked or something like that and it’s not a delay mechanism in a manual action firearm because the bolt will stay locked until you cycle the action, like on a Savage 99 lever action for example, it’s a very strong lockup, yes they also use those types of systems as a delaying mechanism in semi autos but their design is not exactly the same as when used in manually operated firearms, would be nice to have a manual for the rifle, I bought one so I’ll see how it works when I get it!
 
My guess is it’s probably either a tilting bolt, flapper locked or something like that and it’s not a delay mechanism in a manual action firearm because the bolt will stay locked until you cycle the action, like on a Savage 99 lever action for example, it’s a very strong lockup, yes they also use those types of systems as a delaying mechanism in semi autos but their design is not exactly the same as when used in manually operated firearms, would be nice to have a manual for the rifle, I bought one so I’ll see how it works when I get it!
The manual was posted in the other thread.
 
In the exploded view, #44 is the locking block and #45 is the lock and they are pinned together with #46, so it is some sort of tilting block that locks against the angled shoulder on the underside of the bolt seen in photos 9 and 10 of the disassembly instructions.

Sounds like it is simply tight when new and will need cleaning and lubing before use and probably a bunch of cycling it while watching TV or similar to loosen everything up and smooth the rough edges.


Mark
 
In the exploded view, #44 is the locking block and #45 is the lock and they are pinned together with #46, so it is some sort of tilting block that locks against the angled shoulder on the underside of the bolt seen in photos 9 and 10 of the disassembly instructions.

Sounds like it is simply tight when new and will need cleaning and lubing before use and probably a bunch of cycling it while watching TV or similar to loosen everything up and smooth the rough edges.


Mark
Looks that way.
 
Just got mine.

Came with 2 ten round Glock-pattern mags and a front sight. Flip-up sights are cheap but not terrible.

I’m guessing you can take the barrel rail off and use the receiver sight with the regular front.

The action requires some effort to cam open the locking mechanism. If you have the upper body strength of a 10 year old girl, you should be fine.

Mags drop free when the bolt is open. Had no issues feeding dummy rounds on my bench.

Pump handle is slick. Needs grip tape.

First impressions are positive. Range trip this afternoon.


 
So, it goes bang and the factory mags work. The Magpul one did as well.

The short throw of the pump makes it fast.

If you have the forearm on bags and are not holding it, it will unlock and move rearward. A couple times it ejected the empty with Fiocchi 115 gr. I’ve got pump shotguns that will do that. It’s not an issue if you’re holding it or even just have a thumb on the rear of the pump.

As others have mentioned, you can over insert the mag with the action open. Don’t hammer it in and give it a tug when inserted to avoid this issue.

Trigger is heavy but breaks clean with little take up or overtravel. Reset is positive and short.

The group is Blazer Brass at 25 yds.

For what it is, it’s okay. I don’t hate it.


 
Thanks for the range report Stevo!
Your group looks like a group which is nice to see..... :)


Does it look like there is enough meat in the bottom of the foreend to mount a rail and run a short stubby vertical grip?

Is there an obvious reason they didn't put an M lock slot for a bottom rail?
 
Thanks for the range report Stevo!
Your group looks like a group which is nice to see..... :)


Does it look like there is enough meat in the bottom of the foreend to mount a rail and run a short stubby vertical grip?

Is there an obvious reason they didn't put an M lock slot for a bottom rail?

I’m not sure why they didn’t. There’s some clearance but hard to tell just how much without taking it apart.

At the very least you could probably use some countersink screws or recess some T-nuts to add a piece of Pic rail.
 
I’m not sure why they didn’t. There’s some clearance but hard to tell just how much without taking it apart.

At the very least you could probably use some countersink screws or recess some T-nuts to add a piece of Pic rail.
Right on, if there's enough clearance it might even be as easy as milling out an Mlok sized slot with a router..... :)
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom